Are your exhaust headers manifolds, or headers?
5.0 manifold (on most non-HO engines)
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/exhaust-ma..._content=EEM&gclid=CKGTn6Gq-rwCFcx9OgodaDEAng
5.0 header (on Mustang and Mark 7 HO engine)
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/150072
I have nothing that can help you but I have to ask this question.....why bang your head against the wall with this mickey mouse combo?
... blah, blah, blah ...
Update 3/4/14 (part II)
This evening I had a friend come over to help me check the distributor. We located TDC on cylinder #1 and found that the distributor was pointed directly at spark plug wire #1 just as it should be.
We then experimented with advancing the timing in two degree increments up to about 18 degrees. The engine ran like crap no matter what we set the timing at. We were able to observe a few interesting things with the timing light, however. First, at idle the timing was consistent. Second, at a throttle position just above idle the engine kept surging along with the timing visibly increasing and decreasing. Third, at just a slightly higher throttle position everything smoothed out again. Fourth, on more than one occasion we noted that the flashing of the timing light seemed to slow way down (like almost half of what it should have been).
We then decided to switch around the spark plug wires to the non-HO firing order. After doing this, the engine would only crank with no attempt at starting. I thought to myself, "Great! We just verified that it is an HO motor." We put the spark plug wires back in the HO firing order and discovered that the engine still would only crank with no attempt at starting. At this point I thinking something along the lines of, "Are you freakin' kidding me?!" Further testing revealed that there was absolutely no spark at any of the cylinders or coming out of the coil.
With the TFI module and the distributor barely even warm to the touch, I estimate that we spent the next 30 to 40 minutes discussing the computer, the TFI module, and the pickup sensor as possible suspects for this extremely depressing ignition failure. During that time several unsuccessful attempts were made to restart the engine. It wasn't until we decided it was time to start pushing the Jeep off the street that it miraculously restarted. For perhaps 30 seconds it seemed to actually run well, but then it went back to running like crap again. We quickly moved the Jeep off the road and then let it sit idling while we discussed the absurdity of everything that had happened. Within about 15 minutes the engine died and would not restart again. Before walking away in absolute disgust I noted that the TFI module and distributor were much warmer but not even close to being too hot to touch.
Thoughts?
Ideas?
Suggestions?
Your philosophy equates to telling every Mustang owner who posts on this forum with engine problems that they should pull the engines out of their cars and replace them with something else instead of fixing whatever is wrong.
Judging by the build of the Jeep, I am confident that the guy who built it knew exactly what he was doing. As far as I'm concerned he must have been an automotive genius to get everything to work together like he did. He didn't cut any corners either. He used the best of everything, even when it came to little details like the rubber fuel line. The custom fabrication he did is outstanding as well.
Unfortunately his brother (who I bought the Jeep from) was an idiot and didn't know much about the Jeep's build. He could only brag about all of the trails he had done in Moab with the Jeep.
Keep in mind that the Jeep has likely been built like this for well over 20 years, so any issues with incompatible parts would have been dealt with long ago. I was told that back in the day the Jeep had been magazine featured as one of the first CJ-7 builds to use a 5.0 with the EFI setup. That may or may not be true, but it's cool to think about..
Fair enough...
Replacing the engine is not an option for me, so I'd like to get this thread back on track. I have a few questions related to post #62.
1) Is there a way for me to determine if the camshaft is a roller or a flat tappet without tearing into the engine? I ask because I would very much like to replace the entire distributor. Unfortunately I'm not sure if I need one with a cast iron gear or a steel gear.
(Note: A couple of years ago I had O'Reilly Auto Parts order one of each for me. When we placed the two new distributors on the counter along with my Jeep's distributor it was impossible to see any differences between the gears. I had read plenty of discussions about the cast iron gears looking more rough while the steel gears appear to be more smooth/machined. There are also claims that scratching the gears can help identify them. All I can say is that no amount of visual comparisons and scratching yielded any noticeable differences between the three gears.)
2) Could a faulty computer quickly kill new parts in a distributor (specifically the TFI module and/or the PIP)?
3) Is there a way to determine what the computer is even though there are no factory stickers on the case?
Thank you in advance for the continued help.
If anything that gives us strong evidence that it's a NON-HO computer which is using batch fire.
Any luck on confirming the injectors are the 14# light grey injectors?
Honestly, I don't know. I only say this because i've never seen such a mix-matched 5.0 setup before. The previous owner did some good stuff, but I think a few things could be improved.
Obviously I would say here to fix the problem before upgrades. In in terms of upgrades, i would switch to a Mustang 86-88 Speed Density computer system, and 19# injectors, as well as replace the intake manifold and so on. However, really need to ID what you have before plotting that sort of course Of course, more importantly you need to fix the issues at hand.
1. No. However if it's a later 80's engine good chance it is a roller block. By 1986 pretty much everything was roller. Of course that's an assumption we can't make right now. Only way to really tell is yank the lower intake.
2.) Yes, if it send voltage to a wire that it shouldn't see it on. The EEC still needs to be identified however.
Now I'm even more confused. For whatever reason I have been under the assumption that all HO firing order cams were roller and all flat tappet cams were non-HO firing order. Are you saying that there are both flat tappet cams and roller cams that use the HO firing order?
No, you are right. If there is an HO cam in it, it's a roller block. The block part number confirms this.
IDing the heads and intake manifold would help narrow things down.
So far:
1985-later Roller block
14# injectors
The heads are probably E6 castings (vs E7 castings on the 87-later 5.0 HO).
The upper intake is also probably an E6SE casting as well.
The heads are probably E6 castings (vs E7 castings on the 87-later 5.0 HO).
The upper intake is also probably an E6SE casting as well.
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