please help, started, then nothing....

[Gunnerm1]

Car was running fine , but too slow for me.
Soooo,
I pulled the engine ;
Added AFR 205’s
Vortec Supercharger
Ect and so on.
I buttoned it up day before yesterday and cranked her up..
She ran like a top for about 5 min and I realized that my temperature was climbing a little so I shut it off and wired in my fan.
Now here comes the W.T.F part.
Yesterday morning I go to fire her back up, and it does but has no throttle response. Keep in mind that the car is still on jack stands in the garage.
The car has a hunting idle for about 3 minutes then dies.
I try to start again and just get a back fire.
So, I get to looking around and notice that my distributor hold down is loose. ( I assume that it must have jumped timing)
So that is one problem that I have been working on, and when my wife gets home I will do the #1 piston , top dead center thing and try to retime the car.
Car has spark and a and fuel, so im guessing it is the timing.
Could I have already fouled the plugs, they were brand new?

Next-----------my lights are not working. I have no exterior lights whatsoever. My interior lights are working, but my blinkers just stay lit on the dash.
I have checked every plug and relay , fuse to no avail.



And last observation I have made is that somehow , someway , the distributor is grounding out when I stab it. I mean you can hear the fuel pump prime, when I stab the dizzy, how in the hell is my dizzy conducting electricity. And could this lead to the fact the the car will not start now.

I fail to mention that I relocated the battery to the trunk, I grounded the battery to the frame, and then the engine block to the frame. This allowed the starter to turn over. Do I still need to ground the battery to the block.

I knew this was going to happen after I did such extensive re-wiring on the engine bay. The prior owner had a bird nest of wiring, but somehow it worked. Now that everything is put back where it is supposed to be I have these problems.

Im just a lot frustrated, im sure some of you can relate.
I know I am all over the place but any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Richard


Mods
Bored .040 over
Unknown cam’
Vortech Supercharger
AFR 205’s
Comp 1:6 roller rockers
Comp push rods
GT40 tubular intake
42 lbs injectors with calibrated mass air
75 mm BBK throttle body
MSD billit Distributor
MSD ignition with boost retard
BBK long tubes

 

[jrichker]

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by
a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green
wires have a high quality ground..

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.