please help :\

Have you check for codes yet. Check for codes before you start throwing parts at it. That can get expensive. Codes first then check back

Follow the above advice so you don't throw wasted money at it trying to hit the elusive bullseye. I do agree about checking the fuel filter. Crud in a dirty filter will get stirred up as you drive and slowly clogg up the outlet. After the car shuts down the crud slowly settles and the port opens back up, only to repeat again when stirred up.
Get your codes read...Auto stores routinely do that for you now.
The ignition module on the front of the distributor can also cause your kind of trouble, just as Hissin said. If you end up with a new one, make sure it's a FORD brand, not one from Auto zone! IF not, you will be sorry in the long run.
Good luck to you, hope to hear back from you with your results.
Ken

Sounds like a timing belt jumped

You should definately check for any codes. You may have codes and no check engine light. Even though its a 2.3 with the distributorless ignition there is still an ignition module. It is different than the TFI module on a 5.0 and looks to be much more expensive so I'd definately have it tested before replacing it.

So the engine breaks up? Does the tach jump around, acts funny?

There is an ignition module bolted to the front of the intake; When looking at the engine from the front, it will be on the right, and if original it will be labled "DIS". It will have a harness connecting to it at the top and bottom. Remove it, and have AutoZone repeatedly check it atleast 5 times in a row to get it hot. I will bet that is your problem, it is the #1 problem with DIS 2.3's.

Codes can be stored without illuminating the CEL.

You do not have an inline fuel filter? Or did you look at the pump's sock?

You need to monitor pressure when it acts up.

A repair manual is very helpful for familiarizing one's self with the systems in the vehicle.

Good luck.

Some help with dumping the codes...

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/





IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

you might also want to try posting this in the 2.3l tech section. not saying these guys can't help but the 2.3 guys play with those motors all the time. might be worth a shot.