Porting tools

TurboFlush · Sep 18, 2004

I am porting some V6 heads for my Scorpio and well, I ran into a problem. the stones and sand rolls I got cant reach as deep as I need to get.
does anyone know where I can get a longer stone and a longer sand roll holder?
I just need another inch!!! the darn air tool ends up hitting the sides and I cant get any deeper!!!

Also where is a good source for porting equipment in generall?

Porting is not really all that bad. Just time consuming. to bad I wont be able to tell if I gain anything from this, never got to run the car hard in its originall form.

I am mostly opening up the initial entry and just getting rid of the uglly cast bumps.

Is it normally recomended to do the exausht also? I have heard both ways?!

thanks,
TF

evintho · Sep 18, 2004

Stones suck, carbide bits rock! They remove lots more material, lots faster! Try this guys 'view sellers other items'. He usually has a ton of these for sale.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3838567191&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

JamesBaumann · Sep 19, 2004

I ported out both my exhaust and intake ports on the n/a 2.3 head. Hasn't been swapped on yet, or even finished, but the porting is done.

I also ported a little bit through the combustion chamber area of the head, just to open it up a little more and give the air, fuel and exhaust a bit more of a direct flow through to the side port openings.

One thing that you have to be careful with when you are doing your polishing once you're done your porting is to not polish the intake ports too much. I guess if you polish them too smooth then you can actually cause the fuel air mixture to separate which causes fuel droplets which I guess translates into bad things happening. Im not quite sure what too much is yet, but from what I understand you should just do a quick little polish job for maximum performance. You can polish the exhaust ports glass smooth but soon the carbon will get to them and they wont stay that smooth.

As far as porting tools go I can't really help you out too much as I am just bumming tools off my machinist.

TurboFlush · Sep 19, 2004

evintho said:
Stones suck, carbide bits rock! They remove lots more material, lots faster! Try this guys 'view sellers other items'. He usually has a ton of these for sale.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3838567191&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

So you use them to do the initial cut, but what about the polishing part? I would still need some way to extend the shanks for the sand rolls.

I am going to look into getting some of those carbide bits.

thx,
TF

evintho · Sep 19, 2004

You got me on that one Turboflush! As far as the head goes, I'm using a Makita 1/4" electric die grinder and I can get to most of the head with the smaller carbide bits and sanding rolls. It's my E6 that I'm gonna have trouble getting to with the sanding rolls. I'm actually working on acquiring the rolls now. I'm looking at www.sa-motorsports.com, Summit and Ebay. I'll let you know how it turns out.

evintho · Sep 20, 2004

UPDDATE!
I just ordered my sanding rolls and mandrel. I got a 6" long mandrel for $6, 25 pack of 80 grit for $10 and a 25 pack of 120 grit for $10 from Joe Mondello Tech School, a distributor for SA-Motorsports. 1-888-666-3355. The 6" mandrel should be great for reaching all those hard-to-get spots!

Red_LX · Sep 20, 2004

I highly recommend getting an SA Motorsports "Deluxe" porting kit. I got one and it was been so handy I'm glad I did. Granted it is around $50 but it has got EVERYTHING you need except for carbide cutters. It comes with two grinding stones, a whole bunch of sanding rolls in 40 and 80 grit, two 100 grit (I think) flap wheels, and four of their cross buffs which are THE thing to have when it comes to polishing surfaces, plus long and short mandrels for the sanding rolls and a long mandrel for the flap wheels and cross buffs. I've used that kit to do my head and upper and lower intake and it works GREAT. Only complaint I have is that they really don't give you enough 40 grit rolls, but at any rate if you're gonna do any porting, get that kit!

TurboFlush · Sep 22, 2004

Any one got a site that explains porting reall well. I have read over the SA book but it only helps so much.
A friend came up to me and started talking about different stages of porting. ended up being I was kinda backwards working.
I ported the intake and was going to leave the exauhst alone. also polished up the combustion area. then he informed me that I needed to match each of the combustion areas, open the exauhst and not use the polishing wheels on the intake.

What grade do yall use on the intake for final finish? I was thinking the 60 would be rough enough, but I guess I was wrong according to him.

ohh yah, also wanted to ask about the combustion chamber.. any tips or hints.??

Why ohh, why did I choose a v6 to learn on! LOL.

Red_LX · Sep 22, 2004

Well, I mostly just used the little book that came with the porting kit for tips, otherwise I read some of what other people had done and just tried things out for myself.

The book in the kit just said that the 80 grit was all the smoother you wanted the intake ports.

Also in the chambers...you're looking for a near-mirror shine. I found it easier to do mine with a dremel than with my die grinder, partly because I found some neat little flap wheels for the dremel.

This is what mine look like:

TurboFlush · Sep 23, 2004

did you check the CC's all the way across on the combustion chambers?

Today I was removing some Oxygen enjector bumps and my damn stone came off of the shaft. grrr. I would of been done today to! you had the 3 angle drind done afterwards to the valve seats?

Red_LX · Sep 23, 2004

No, I didn't check the CC's. Wasn't really that worried about it. I ground out some of the chamber wall to unshroud the valves but other than that I really didn't change the chamber.

Also, I told the machine shop I took the head to to do a 3 angle job but after looking at it it doesn't look like they did I think they just gave it a standard valve job.

TurboFlush · Sep 24, 2004

I was told that if the CC's wernt matched then it would over heat. maybe that is more so on the bigger motors with more cylinders.

Red_LX · Sep 25, 2004

Well, I asked on turboford and was told I should check, so I guess I will. It doesn't make the engine overheat, it just prevents it from running as good, although some engines are more sensitive to it than others.

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