Power adder poll

SitDown · Sep 1, 2005

Ive run HCI with a dry kit, was cheap easy and safe way to 400hp. Bottle refills really add up @ $4-5/lb...Another $100 tossed into a weekend track budget.

Ran a stroker NA. Great power, great torque, reliable no belts to break or slip and no bottles to fill.

Soon up to bat: Stroked, Blown, and Sprayed... i like them all so much i couldnt choose

steel1212 · Sep 1, 2005

SitDown said:
Soon up to bat: Stroked, Blown, and Sprayed... i like them all so much i couldnt choose

The best idea I've heard yet

steel1212 · Sep 1, 2005

brianj5600 said:
There was an outlaw 10.5 car at Huntville last year that had two displacement replacement items. They were 88mm each and I believe he set low et of the weekend against many big blocks with power adders as well.

I agree turbos are the way to go just not in my budget or skill ranges.

mustangman70 · Sep 1, 2005

That is rape for nitrous, my car club gets it for like 1.90-2.10 a pound

SitDown · Sep 1, 2005

mustangman70 said:
That is rape for nitrous, my car club gets it for like 1.90-2.10 a pound

bulk buying aside, the cheapest u can get it in the chicago area is ~$3/lb and typically thats certain days under certain situations(ie car boutique, thursdays during car shows). I used to pay $2-2.50/lb thru a nitrous member club many years back, but it was always a hassel to deal with the blabber mouth seller, honestly be there for hours, had to make up lies that my child was in the hospital to escape under 1 hour. So hassel free trips to the local speed shops netted ~4/lb... havnt filled a bottle in over a year and half, so i just figured prices would have risen past $4

steel1212 · Sep 1, 2005

wait do you mean 4-5 per 1 lb if so sorry thats what I pay not 4$ for 10lbs I pay 40 bucks to fill up my 10lb bottles.

brianj5600 · Sep 1, 2005

ratio411 said:
Nitrous can break your engine too easy IMO.
Dave

Below 200hp is pretty forgiving provided your motor is built for hp. Above that things can get expensive if you get it wrong. The thing I did not like about N2O is the Jeckle and Hyde. W/O it you need a looser tc and more gear. Set it up for N2O and it is a dog w/o it. I voted turbo, and should have it going by spring.

10secgoal · Sep 1, 2005

mustangman70 said:
That is rape for nitrous, my car club gets it for like 1.90-2.10 a pound

I was paying 1.99 a lb at the speed shop. Just before I left it went up to 2.50. But all race parts are cheaper over there for some reason. Nitrous here is 4.75 a lb. F that.

steel1212 · Sep 1, 2005

brianj5600 said:
W/O it you need a looser tc and more gear. Set it up for N2O and it is a dog w/o it.

???

brianj5600 · Sep 1, 2005

The closer to stock, the less it matters. My old car made no tq until 4300rpm's. With a converter loose enough to make it 60' on motor, it blew right through the converter with the hose. It needed a 5.13 gear w/o N2O and a 4.56 with it. The motor was night and day difference with a 200 shot. I settled for a 2800 converter and a 4.56 gear, but I was dead with out the button.

iskwezm · Sep 1, 2005

mustangman70 said:
That is rape for nitrous, my car club gets it for like 1.90-2.10 a pound

I used to get it free.........when I worked there

race-rodz · Sep 2, 2005

416" stroker with 250 shot.... in 2 years... i only had one problem... a sticking NO2 sol... in turn causing one minor backfire.... replaced the sol and carb butterflys... just part of the "deal".... kinda like buying tires, gas, and changing oil.

new motor will be NA... as my interests have changed..... dont need NO2 on a road track.

steel1212 · Sep 2, 2005

Yeah, I was thinking about my 4.11s and 100 shot but I think I'll be ok through the 1/4 as I have 5 speed. I want me motor to be mean with out the juice and wicked with it

brianj5600 · Sep 2, 2005

A clutch solves the converter issues, which is waaay more important than gears.

mustangman70 · Sep 2, 2005

man im SO glad it only costs me 20 bucks to fill mine, and nitrous dosent break motors easily, careless users do, above race-rodz said his N20 solonoid was sticking, im sure he had alot of saftey features on his system and was able to get away with out any real harm, had that smae thing happen to a motor with out a window switch or a WOT switch or any thing like that it could have been bad lol

rhyno9 · Sep 2, 2005

Twin T3's are my choice

I choose turbos for a couple of reasons

I have 2 used but in good shape t3's for a total of about 220 which includes wastegates. I spent 100 bucks in mandrel bends and I used some $100 shorty headers plus $20 bucks for flanges. So for about $500 I have 15 psi of boost.

Efficiency. They don't consume crank hp to run them.

Different. It's not everyday you see a classic mustang with twin turbos.

I like to build/fabricate things and this gives me an excuse to weld some S.H.I.T. together.

No bottles to refill.

Always on (but only if I want it) unlike belt driven superchargers it will drive like a normal car until I smash the gas. Helps with fuel economy in these times of insane gas prices.

Lastly:
Since I was planning on converting to efi anyways but that makes the tuning aspect considerably easier. Lots of guys run turbos with carbs but that just scares me. Going EFI made the decision really easy

If I was going to run a carb I would probably go N20 just because ease of use.

stangman16 · Sep 3, 2005

Do you have any pictures of your setup?

rhyno9 said:
I choose turbos for a couple of reasons

I have 2 used but in good shape t3's for a total of about 220 which includes wastegates. I spent 100 bucks in mandrel bends and I used some $100 shorty headers plus $20 bucks for flanges. So for about $500 I have 15 psi of boost.

Efficiency. They don't consume crank hp to run them.

Different. It's not everyday you see a classic mustang with twin turbos.

I like to build/fabricate things and this gives me an excuse to weld some S.H.I.T. together.

No bottles to refill.

Always on (but only if I want it) unlike belt driven superchargers it will drive like a normal car until I smash the gas. Helps with fuel economy in these times of insane gas prices.

Lastly:
Since I was planning on converting to efi anyways but that makes the tuning aspect considerably easier. Lots of guys run turbos with carbs but that just scares me. Going EFI made the decision really easy

If I was going to run a carb I would probably go N20 just because ease of use.

rhyno9 · Sep 4, 2005

stangman16 said:
Do you have any pictures of your setup?

I have a couple of pics and some more info at the link below. It is still a work in progress but most of the hot side is done. I still need to do the downpipes and then I will complete the cold side.

http://1968fastback.homelinux.org/mustang/turbo.htm

stangman16 · Sep 5, 2005

Awsome work thus far! Please keep up the good fab work, let us know when you 'Get R done'

steel1212 · Sep 6, 2005

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