Power no traction...
- Thread starter Dirty_D
- Start date
Rougestang
Member
Some upper and lower control arms to start. What kind of rims you have on your car? Try with the widest possible on the rim, or you can get some deep dish and/or get drag radials if your going to the track. some lowering springs would be good to get, and since you have your car apart at that point, do your suspension all at once.
twogts4us
15 Year Member
I'd do just lower control arms on the street - for straight line Strip traction, you cant beat UPR Products...for Strip and Auto-X type stuff, cant beat Maximum Motorsport, but it's quite a bit more pricey than UPR.
Some DRs certainly could help - for all out go with MT's ET Street on a set of Welds.
Lowering springs will do nothing for traction, actually could hurt. As far as springs are concerned, you'd want a drag setup (springs, shocks, struts) that allow weight transfer to the rear...typically these setups also come with an airbag for the RR spring to offset the inherent twisting motion.
You'll really have to learn to drive a bit differently as well...feathering the throttle to stay right on the edge of traction.
Hope that helps...
Some DRs certainly could help - for all out go with MT's ET Street on a set of Welds.
Lowering springs will do nothing for traction, actually could hurt. As far as springs are concerned, you'd want a drag setup (springs, shocks, struts) that allow weight transfer to the rear...typically these setups also come with an airbag for the RR spring to offset the inherent twisting motion.
You'll really have to learn to drive a bit differently as well...feathering the throttle to stay right on the edge of traction.
Hope that helps...
Bluffing024
Active Member
whyask
New Member
Most importantly....don't skimp on the tires. El Cheapo's are easy on the wallet, but more often than not you pay for it in performance.
lower control arms i will do. I have the stock 17" rims and its an 01 gt vert. Its kind of my weekend sleeper. I just want to put that power to the floor. When all said an done i plan on 400rwhp. After port, smaller pulley and meth kit . prob at about 320whpish. Rebuild or new motor planned for this winter when i am done driven it. Right now i just want to beable to move. So are the springs, shocks, struts ago or are they a waste? I saved for ever for this project and I have been doing most of it my self. Just want to do what will make my car perform and not buy junk. 
jivepepper
Founding Member
I have a stock suspension and 315/35/17 MT Drag radials on 10.5" deep dish wheels. Been to the track once with them and cut a 1.7 60' on the first run
Halfrican
New Member
Didn't want to start a newbie thread for this, but why do people go with 35 sidewall on the rear tires on 17inch rims? Wouldn't you want 315/45/17 to keep your speedometer accurate? I see 255/45/17 on the front and 315/35/17 on the rear in peoples modlist all the time, this just seems odd to me, smaller diameter wheels on the back...
jivepepper
Founding Member
The middle number is a percentage of the width. So the side wall is 35% of the width of the tire on a 315/35/17. A 245/45/17 is the same height as 315/15/17.
Halfrican
New Member
Stan Weiss
Member
Bluffing024
Active Member
It is the sidewall measurement. But it is the percentage of the first number. The stock tire (245/45/17) side wall is 245x.45=110.25 Aftermarket 315x35=110.25
A 315/45/17 would throw the speedo off 9.7%!!!!!!!
Halfrican
New Member
gotcha, thanks man!
Also I wish someone made a 295 width tire, or an 11" rim! I like my tires to be squared up with the rim, not have tire bulging out.
Also I wish someone made a 295 width tire, or an 11" rim! I like my tires to be squared up with the rim, not have tire bulging out.
Bluffing024
Active Member
They do, I have 295/35/18's and they are the highest recommended tire on StangNet. BF Goodrich KDW2s!
Halfrican
New Member
Bluffing024
Active Member
I have 265/35/18 in front and 295/35/18 in back and my speedo is .2% off. So at 50 MPH my speedo is off 1/10th of a MPH.
Halfrican
New Member
Sweet, so the 103.25mm sidewall vs. stock 110.25mm isn't that big of a difference at all then?
If so I'm going with 255/40/18 up front and 295/35/18. After much number crunching this should give me a perfect tire size for 18x9 up front and 18x10.5 in the rear. About a half inch overhang on each side of each tire.
If so I'm going with 255/40/18 up front and 295/35/18. After much number crunching this should give me a perfect tire size for 18x9 up front and 18x10.5 in the rear. About a half inch overhang on each side of each tire.
Stan Weiss
Member
Yes the 103.25 sidewall vs. stock 110.25 is a big of a difference. But you making up the difference by 1 inch in wheel diameter. The difference between 110.25 and 103.25 is 93.65%. If you take 103.25+103.25+(18*25.4) = 663.7 and 110.25+110.25+(17*25.4) = 652.3 and the difference between 663.7 and 652.3 is 98.28%.
Anything you can do to make a better weight ratio from front to rear is good. For example, a battery relocation kit, tubular K member. You want the front end to be light, the rear to be heavy.
The springs in the front should be drag type that will allow the car to lift in the front and move the weight to the rear upon launch.
Tires. I have to get some also. Even though I only have about 250/295 hp&tk, my car will often spin the tires on a gentle take off. I am currently running Continental all season radials. I need a "sticky" tire.
The springs in the front should be drag type that will allow the car to lift in the front and move the weight to the rear upon launch.
Tires. I have to get some also. Even though I only have about 250/295 hp&tk, my car will often spin the tires on a gentle take off. I am currently running Continental all season radials. I need a "sticky" tire.
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