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Power steering issue. Wheels turn to right when engine started

  • Thread starter Thread starter gregp1962
  • Start date Start date Mar 24, 2007
G

gregp1962

New Member
Nov 14, 2006
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Mar 24, 2007
#1
  • Mar 24, 2007
  • #1
I just got the power steering working for the first time in 8 years. It is working great except it seems to turm right way too easy. When I first start it, the whhels turn to the right without me turning them.

I know there is a way to center it. Does anyone know of a good write up on how to do it?
 

302 coupe

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2000
1,952
3
36
Macon, Ga.
Mar 24, 2007
#2
  • Mar 24, 2007
  • #2
I have a truck that does that, I was told that the pressure valve had gotten out of whack causing an unbalanced system. I don't know that much about it though, still drives good, so I'm content.
 
J

justford

Founding Member
Feb 15, 2001
66
0
7
Grayson KY
Mar 25, 2007
#3
  • Mar 25, 2007
  • #3
Make sure the hoses are not reversed on the control valve.
 
R

RUSTYNUT

New Member
Mar 22, 2007
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PDX
Mar 25, 2007
#4
  • Mar 25, 2007
  • #4
I had that problem once. The former owner had reinstalled the pitman arm a couple of teeth off. Might want to check before buying alot parts.
 

yeloxr7

Member
Apr 18, 2005
429
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16
Mar 26, 2007
#5
  • Mar 26, 2007
  • #5
What are alot parts?????
 
B

bnickel

Founding Member
Aug 21, 2002
5,640
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77
lubbock, texas
Mar 26, 2007
#6
  • Mar 26, 2007
  • #6
www.stangerssite.com
 
G

gregp1962

New Member
Nov 14, 2006
40
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Mar 27, 2007
#7
  • Mar 27, 2007
  • #7
This problem is happening on my 64 1/2, V8 w/ Eaton pump. I know that I have the hoses installed correctly. It just barely turns to the right. It does so even when the car is running and sitting still. I'm sure that the valve needs adjustment. Just need to know how to adjust it.
 

stanger53

New Member
Jun 24, 2005
89
0
0
San Antonio, Texas
Mar 27, 2007
#8
  • Mar 27, 2007
  • #8
Remove the aluminum end cap from the valve. You will see a nut mounted on a threaded stud. There shouldn't be any fluid in this area, but there may be grease smeared on the spring.

Tighten down the nut until it is real snug. Don't tighten the hell out of it or you will shear off the pin at the end of the bolt that keeps it from turning. All you want to do is to bottom out the spring, so you will feel it get tight when this happens. Notice how much slop there is in the bolt and that it will turn with the nut back and forth about 1/4 turn without the nut even turning on the threads.

If you find that the nut was already tightened down and bottomed out, then that is probably the problem right there.

Using a marker (like a Sharpie), put a line or dot on the nut and the end of the bolt so you can reference them against each other. What you want to do is back the nut off 1/4 turn. Since there is a lot of slop in the bolt itself, observe the markings on the parts and back the nut off until all the slop is taken out, then make sure the nut backs off the bolt 1/4 turn.

Do not start the engine or turn the car while you have the cap off the valve.

In most cases, this will provide the correct amount of load that the spool valve inside the housing will center itself and both sides of the system will get equal pressure. Reinstall the aluminum cap and try the system out. If it still pulls one way, then the spool is not centering for some reason and you can try adjusting the setup again.

Try adjusting the nut only about 1/8 turn at a time and then test. I don't know which way you may have to adjust the nut, so you will have to experiment with your setup. If changing adjustments do not help, then there is something else wrong with the valve.
 

yeloxr7

Member
Apr 18, 2005
429
0
16
Mar 27, 2007
#9
  • Mar 27, 2007
  • #9
Tighten the nut to 10 lb/ft. Then back off 1/4 turn allowing for the movement of the shaft.

It is possible that the spool inside the control valve is stuck. You may have to disassemble the valve and polish the spool with emery cloth or 600 sandpaper. I had a similar problem in my 69 Cougar. There were burrs on the edges of the spool and these were causing the spool to stick in the valve bore.
 
G

gregp1962

New Member
Nov 14, 2006
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Mar 27, 2007
#10
  • Mar 27, 2007
  • #10
Thanks for the advice guys. I had the spool out a few weeks ago and it looked good. I think I remember not knowing how tight to tighten that nut and there was alot of play in it. So, I'm thinking that after folllowing your instructions, it will be fine.
 
G

gregp1962

New Member
Nov 14, 2006
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Apr 4, 2007
#11
  • Apr 4, 2007
  • #11
OK, After adjusting the nut under the aluminum cap, the wheel still turns to the right. What is the next most likely thing it could be?
 

stanger53

New Member
Jun 24, 2005
89
0
0
San Antonio, Texas
Apr 5, 2007
#12
  • Apr 5, 2007
  • #12
When you rebuilt the control valve:

Did the spool slide smoothly in the housing, end to end?

Did you install the spool into the housing in the correct direction?

Did the reaction valve slide smoothly in the housing?

Were both reaction valve springs the same length?

Was the part of the Travel Stop where the spool valve end pushes against it, grooved or worn down?
 
G

gregp1962

New Member
Nov 14, 2006
40
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0
Apr 5, 2007
#13
  • Apr 5, 2007
  • #13
When I get the chance, I'll take it off and check for what you both said. Where is the best place for a blown up view of how the valve goes back together?
 

yeloxr7

Member
Apr 18, 2005
429
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Apr 6, 2007
#14
  • Apr 6, 2007
  • #14
There is a good pic in the factory shop manual.
 
G

gregp1962

New Member
Nov 14, 2006
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Apr 6, 2007
#15
  • Apr 6, 2007
  • #15
Is there a way to post or email me a copy of thast pic in the factory shop manual?

Also, the ram is leaking fluid where the rod slides in and out. Is there an easy way to remedy that?
 
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