Power Window Issues (searched for 2 days)

9

90bluegt

Founding Member

Dec 9, 1999

592

0

16

Jul 3, 2009

#1

• Jul 3, 2009

• #1

My passenger window will sort-of go down and not go up. I have replaced the switches and the power window lift motor. I have 11.4 volts at the plug to motor, is that not enough or should it be more? This is in both directions up or down.

The volts are the same either door closed or open. It's a 90 hatchback and I got a new relay for it, but now I'm reading that those are only on verts not hatches (that true?) any other thoughts from anyone?

Any other thoughts from anyone?

Thanks ahead of time..

 

TechSteele

New Member

Mar 8, 2009

60

1

0

North Coast

Jul 3, 2009

#2

• Jul 3, 2009

• #2

11.4 Sounds a little low, but i dont know for sure what it should be exactly.
I got 11.6 last night, (i happened to be testing a few circuits yesterday)
but i know my battery is a little low again.
Double check the grounds, the main one for the door controls is under the door panel on the drivers side door.
With a multimeter, you could check for continuity/Ohms between the door and the dash for instance to check the ground, without taking off the door panel.

Grease/oil the shaft/alignment rod, it may help a little. You would need to get behind the door panel to do that well.

Mine seems to need to charge when i first hit the button, like a solenoid, i read something about the relay, sorry i dont remember.

Cant be much more help, sorry

 

mustangsquared

Founding Member

Jun 8, 2002

828

1

16

new bern nc

Jul 3, 2009

#3

• Jul 3, 2009

• #3

Not sure, but there should be a relay... how else would you be able to operate the pass window from the drivers door.

 

TechSteele

New Member

Mar 8, 2009

60

1

0

North Coast

Jul 3, 2009

#4

• Jul 3, 2009

• #4

There is a Pass Over cable that connects from the wires from the drivers door (near the Kick Panel), it goes through/along the top of the dash, to the wires on the passengers side kick panel.
Big 6 pin (might be 8) connectors on mine at both ends.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

33

129

Jul 4, 2009

#5

• Jul 4, 2009

• #5

As noted, no relay for the windows (they're R-P).

If you disconnect the OEM motor plug and hook fused power directly to the motor (from the battery), does the window motor function?

 

mustangsquared

Founding Member

Jun 8, 2002

828

1

16

new bern nc

Jul 4, 2009

#6

• Jul 4, 2009

• #6

interesting...learn something new every visit to stangnet.

Does the motor work when not attached to the window?? Could the window be out of alignment so much that it jams, freezing the motor in place?

 

9

90bluegt

Founding Member

Dec 9, 1999

592

0

16

Jul 4, 2009

#7

• Jul 4, 2009

• #7

Yes, the motor will go up and down with power directly connected. I just discovered that I only replaced the drivers switch not the passengers, I thought that I replaced both of them, I guess not. I now have a passenger side window switch on order. I'll be getting it on thursday hopefully, we'll see what happens then.

Anything else to try? thanks for all replys..

 

TechSteele

New Member

Mar 8, 2009

60

1

0

North Coast

Jul 4, 2009

#8

• Jul 4, 2009

• #8

I wouldnt think it Could get that far out of alignment.
It would be so loose you would know something was wrong, if it was.

If i made a guess, its not getting enough power, or, its fighting the motor and needs oil.
There could be a SMALL chance the gears are to tight and you need to bump the motor a little to loosen them, but not too loose that it skips teeth.
These little probelms are normally more simple then we think they are, try the oil/grease first.

I am guessing you have the same problem with the engine running.

You can hot wire the motor and test it, but my guess you will have the same problem.
Hot wiring it would be tricky, you would have to reverse the connections to get it back up.
positive and negative

 

9

90bluegt

Founding Member

Dec 9, 1999

592

0

16

Jul 9, 2009

#9

• Jul 9, 2009

• #9

I got the issue resolved today. My passenger window switch came in. I put in the car and now the window goes up and down again.

thanks for the replies guys, they were most appreciated.

 

BigDanTheMan

Member

Aug 16, 2005

63

1

6

San Francisco, CA

Jul 9, 2009

#10

• Jul 9, 2009

• #10

I hooked my stuck motors up to a 12 volt lantern battery and they ran. I cleaned and greased them with silicon while they were running. Reversing the polarity reverses the direction the motor spins.

 

9

90bluegt

Founding Member

Dec 9, 1999

592

0

16

Jul 10, 2009

#11

• Jul 10, 2009

• #11

noticed another problem.. looks like I need a drivers side switch as well since it will only put the passenger side down, but not up.

 

TechSteele

New Member

Mar 8, 2009

60

1

0

North Coast

Jul 10, 2009

#12

• Jul 10, 2009

• #12

Pull the switch off/out,
with a small flat blade screw driver, gently, pry the snaps open while, prying out the switch guts, to open the switch.

Clean the tiny contacts inside, should be 2.
One person said use a match body with wd40, i used real fine emery paper and contact cleaner.
Let them dry, put back together, and try again.
It helped my switchs, and a couple other peoples.

Worth a try, before you spend more money on another set of switchs.

 

BigDanTheMan

Member

Aug 16, 2005

63

1

6

San Francisco, CA

Jul 10, 2009

#13

• Jul 10, 2009

• #13

there is also deoxit, an electrical contact cleaner that is great with potentiometers. vintage audio guys swear by it. radio shack. probably use that before wd-40 but who knows could be a ripoff too.

 

TechSteele

New Member

Mar 8, 2009

60

1

0

North Coast

Jul 10, 2009

#14

• Jul 10, 2009

• #14

I have used the Radio Shack Electronics/Contact Cleaner for years.
I got a large can of contact cleaner at Murrys/Orileys the other day, (red can, dont remember the Brand) it seemed a tiny bit thinner, but still worked great.