Prepping 88 Mustang Gt For Paint

Just some advice. If you paint in pieces, paint the ground effects last and put them back on the car within a few days of being painted. The flexibilizer loses its ability to flex over time, so if you wait weeks/months and try to bend the side skirts back into place, the finish may crack.

I am a painter by trade and been doing it for about 20 years. There are many techniques and different schools of thought, so I'll just give you my take. First off, the spray can paint has to go. If you're doing a color change you will also need to paint the jams, which adds alot to the process. I start by scrubbing the car with a scotch bright pad (green) and some scouring powder. This will remove any grease, oil, and silicon. Sanding depends on what tools you have to work with. If you have an air compressor, use a dual action sander with 180-220 grit sand paper. No air, you will want to wet sand by hand using 220-320 grit. Don't try to dry sand by hand, you'll be there for ever because the paper will gum up quick. Water provides a lubricant and keeps the paper clean. When wet sanding, use a soft block for a smooth finish. Definitely prime the car and wet sand that to remove imperfections. Using a guide coat will help you see the imperfections as you sand. I can explain this if you need. You should also consider what type of paint is currently on the car and what type of paint you're going to apply. If they don't match, your top-coat will react with whats underneath creating problems in you finish. If your not sure, then I recommend using a sealer over the exsisting paint. This is a long and tedious process and I commend you for attempting it. Just make sure your prepared, there is a reason not many people to this work. If you're in it, I'll help you out with any advice I can.

I would not recommend an orbital sander, it will leave a swirled and gouged surface. The dual action sander is what is needed here to prep a smooth surface. Alot of what you do in the prep will show in your paint. Stay away from the jitterbug as well. In a pinch though, you could do it manually with water and some wet/dry sand paper. Wrap it around a soft block or even a new scotch bright pad. Reason being, using just the paper can leave grooves where your fingers apply pressure. I'd start with 320. If it's doesn't cut well, up the grit to 280 or even 220. I usually grab a hose with the water on trickle, just enough to keep my surface wet. You can also use a spray bottle or a thick sponge repeatedly dipped in water. Wet sanding does take some time, but could be completed in a weekend. Painting is easy (relatively speaking). The prep is what really makes or breaks your paint job. Don't cut corners here cause you'll regret it later. Put some music on, turn your brain off for a while, and go to town. Spraying it in pieces is a matter of preference, really, and the complexity of the area you are painting. The key here is, especially with custom colors mixes or additives, is to spray it at the same time, with the same paint mix. Sometimes it's easier to spray in pieces, sometimes not. But not one way is necessarily better than the other.