Procharger vs Vortech

I would go with procharger, I think it is better because of the intercooler that comes with it and the fact the oil pan doesn't need to be tapped. But the procharger you could pick up for cheaper and get an intercooler probably from someone who has had one fabbed already for fairly cheap.

But I say just buy a V8 cause your engine is gonna die anyways....HAHAHA!!

GREENBIOCH said:

I would go with procharger, I think it is better because of the intercooler that comes with it and the fact the oil pan doesn't need to be tapped. But the procharger you could pick up for cheaper and get an intercooler probably from someone who has had one fabbed already for fairly cheap.

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that didnt make sense, and i assume u meant the vortech comes with an intercooler, (because im pretty sure it does)

Nope. The Vortech is not intercooled. You have to buy it extra. The Procharger is the only one that comes intercooled.

GREENBIOCH said:

But I say just buy a V8 cause your engine is gonna die anyways....HAHAHA!!

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I don't know if he was serious, but that statement makes a point.

leaf blower... hehehe... i hears they run pretty cool ;P

94 3.8l stang said:

well. were 3vs3 right now. Yes the procharger comes with the intercooler. I know this, any other comments about them, like which runs hotter, which is more efficient, saying they both have the same size intercooler.

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I think I am one of a very few on this board running a Vortech so let me chime in. First off, shame shame Greenbioch. I've made one too many posts where I specifically stated that anyone who complains about the Vortech b/c of the oil pan tapping has never done it or just screwed it up. It is a piece of cake so don't let that change your mind. Also, the a/c modding isn;t as bad as you'd think. You'll just have to get the compressor out of the way to see what you need to do with the lines. No biggie. Now, as far as heat, my engine hates it more than anything. And with a non intercooled Vortech @ 9psi, I can fry up some eggs on the blower and the upper intake for everyone at the shop after just one pull. It takes ~35 minutes with the fans blazing to get it back to "cool" again. When we try back to back runs, I consistently loose 15-20rwhp. It makes entirely too much heat, period. I need any I/C desperately. And we still have not worked out all of the bugs yet (although I am starting to believe this is something in my comp, not necessarily something inherent with Vortech setups in general). I at this point would have to advise you go with the procharger b/c of the i/c but also b/c even though I am seeing a few less psi, I am still going to be on average about 30-40rwhp short of the normal Procharged guy.

I will say the Vortech install was pretty straightforward, no real surprises and without a chip or anything it still fired up and idled, to a point, with the new LMAF and 42s installed.

If I can answer any more questions, please feel free to shoot me an email or pm. Happy hunting.

One thing I like about the Vortech is it sits where it should be, where God and everybody can see it when they open up the hood. I know ATI had to mount there unit low b/c of the I/C, but I hate the idea of the blower being that low. Ah well, personal preference I suppose. Small price to pay for 100+rwhp though, right??

Oh and just to get you motivated, I LOVE the sound of my blower. I am not sure how much longer I will have the V6, but whatever I have will be supercharged. The top end kick is great and the sound both at idle and under full throttle completely frappin' rules.

procharger over vortech period


the vortech needs the oil pan drilled and tapped which sounds like no problem but unless you take the pan off the car to do it you will get aluminum shavings into the pan and picked up possibly into the main or rod bearings. not a good thing.

as far as the AC is concerned no biggie but why screw with it when the procharger doesn't require moving it. and who gives a rats a$$ where it is located as long as it makes power

lastly the procharger is self contained with it's own oil which runs cooler than an engine that has been sitting in traffic getting the oil hot only to feed the non intercooled supercharger. this equals bad performance when everything is hot.

at least the procharger can cool the aircharge down and uses oil that is not heated by the engine.

here is a pic of my first dyno with my procharger on my 98 with no tune, stock injectors and FMU. notice that the 2 runs were real close to each other in power. that means little heat affected the 2nd run because of the intercooler and self contained oil. yes it is not too impressive but remember this is with 14lb injectors,stock MAF,and FMU and no tune on a singleport and making almost as much power as altblue2000 with his 42lb injectors,300l/hr pump, 80mm MAF and dynotune
i had 4 less hp and 17ftlbs more torque at 11 psi compared to his 7psi on his splitport
click below
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/8456/pics.2.jpg

after some tuning with an AF reading and fumbling with the FMU i got 260rwhp and 288ftlbs torque with the stock injectors

cobra232 said:

procharger over vortech period


the vortech needs the oil pan drilled and tapped which sounds like no problem but unless you take the pan off the car to do it you will get aluminum shavings into the pan and picked up possibly into the main or rod bearings. not a good thing.

as far as the AC is concerned no biggie but why screw with it when the procharger doesn't require moving it. and who gives a rats a$$ where it is located as long as it makes power

lastly the procharger is self contained with it's own oil which runs cooler than an engine that has been sitting in traffic getting the oil hot only to feed the non intercooled supercharger. this equals bad performance when everything is hot.

at least the procharger can cool the aircharge down and uses oil that is not heated by the engine.

here is a pic of my first dyno with my procharger on my 98 with no tune, stock injectors and FMU. notice that the 2 runs were real close to each other in power. that means little heat affected the 2nd run because of the intercooler and self contained oil. yes it is not too impressive but remember this is with 14lb injectors,stock MAF,and FMU and no tune on a singleport and making almost as much power as altblue2000 with his 42lb injectors,300l/hr pump, 80mm MAF and dynotune
i had 4 less hp and 17ftlbs more torque at 11 psi compared to his 7psi on his splitport
click below
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/8456/pics.2.jpg

after some tuning with an AF reading and fumbling with the FMU i got 260rwhp and 288ftlbs torque with the stock injectors

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It seems like you and I have done this before. If you look at my post, I said that for 100+rwhp it doesn't really matter where the blower sits so chill out with the attitude ("who gives a rats ass where it sits"). And as far as you making more power than me, the 230 I make now is only at 5K on 7 psi so with 4 more pounds that are intercooled you should have been right around where I am now. That 4 pounds makes up the diff between the split port and single port. I also said there were still some bugs to work out so dont go on the assumption that my combo is already maxxed out.

speaking of the sound of a supercharger, i could resist brining this little guy up!
S/C or T/C for 29.99! lol
i can just think of how bad that would sound if you had too much pressure coming out of the exhaust, like a freakin ear-piercing whistle!

atlblue2000 said:

It seems like you and I have done this before. If you look at my post, I said that for 100+rwhp it doesn't really matter where the blower sits so chill out with the attitude ("who gives a rats ass where it sits"). And as far as you making more power than me, the 230 I make now is only at 5K on 7 psi so with 4 more pounds that are intercooled you should have been right around where I am now. That 4 pounds makes up the diff between the split port and single port. I also said there were still some bugs to work out so dont go on the assumption that my combo is already maxxed out.

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dude i meant no offense and wasn't directing any smears or flames at you. i know you have more left in the combo. some good tuning and maybe add an aftermarket intercooler or vortech after cooler and you should hit about 260+rwhp at 7 psi

i was just trying to make a statement and unfortunatly i worded it in a way to down grade you and your combo. that was not my intent and i am sorry

cobra232 said:

dude i meant no offense and wasn't directing any smears or flames at you. i know you have more left in the combo. some good tuning and maybe add an aftermarket intercooler or vortech after cooler and you should hit about 260+rwhp at 7 psi

i was just trying to make a statement and unfortunatly i worded it in a way to down grade you and your combo. that was not my intent and i am sorry

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Ahh, its cool. I think that was more of my aggravation with my combo talking than anything else. I do in fact need something to cool the intake charge; I'm thinking the air to air is a better choice, but I need to figure out where to get the pipes from first.

While we are on the subject, it was mentioned that my graph up top looks like spark blowout. What do you think? The dyno operator said when he gets to that part of the tach, it seems to hit a wall sort of. My ign is stock, save for autolite coppers @ .035. Do you think its worth a shot to regap them to .030-.032? I know I am probably reaching here, but plug regaps are free.

Ghostalker said:

that didnt make sense, and i assume u meant the vortech comes with an intercooler, (because im pretty sure it does)

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You sir are on Crack!!!


Altblue2000....I agree with cobra232, I'm sure the oil tapping and A/C bit of the install isn't bad, but if you can skip it and get an Intercooler with the deal why not go that route. I realize you can tune it and add a IC later on, I mean you made my point in yoru post about heat being your biggest enemy. Why not just get the whole setup to start with, for those that are looking into right now. If I were to get a Vortec, then I would have to keep the boost low till I found a suitable IC and setup...blah blah blah, right?

It just makes more sense to start with a procharger these days IMO. But as far as making power, both do it really well!

atlblue2000 said:

Ahh, its cool. I think that was more of my aggravation with my combo talking than anything else. I do in fact need something to cool the intake charge; I'm thinking the air to air is a better choice, but I need to figure out where to get the pipes from first.

While we are on the subject, it was mentioned that my graph up top looks like spark blowout. What do you think? The dyno operator said when he gets to that part of the tach, it seems to hit a wall sort of. My ign is stock, save for autolite coppers @ .035. Do you think its worth a shot to regap them to .030-.032? I know I am probably reaching here, but plug regaps are free.

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you shouldn't have any spark blowout with the coppers at .035"

i ran autolite 605's gapped at .035" with no problems. i think the problem may be mild detonation, which can be mistaken for spark blowout.

you can always get the IC and pipes from procharger and just get a 180 U-bend made coming out of the blower to bend around and to point to the rad then a rubber 90 elbow then run a straight pipe right behind the rad to the bottom of the rad then another 90 elbow pointing to the drivers side fender and from there the rest of the procharger IC and piping will work
good luck i hope you get the bugs worked out.

as for me all my new forged goodies for my rebuild finally came in. can't wait to build it up

cobra232 said:

you shouldn't have any spark blowout with the coppers at .035"

i ran autolite 605's gapped at .035" with no problems. i think the problem may be mild detonation, which can be mistaken for spark blowout.

you can always get the IC and pipes from procharger and just get a 180 U-bend made coming out of the blower to bend around and to point to the rad then a rubber 90 elbow then run a straight pipe right behind the rad to the bottom of the rad then another 90 elbow pointing to the drivers side fender and from there the rest of the procharger IC and piping will work
good luck i hope you get the bugs worked out.

as for me all my new forged goodies for my rebuild finally came in. can't wait to build it up

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Unless we all fell asleep (which with the time it takes this thing to cool down after each pull is a distinct possibility), none of the three of us heard a bit of detonation either during a pull or when we put it through the load test.

Guys screw all of that... i know this guy that sells surbocharger kits for the v6. What he did was combine all the good things of a turbo and a supercharger into one nice system. I think he's charging 19.95 for the system. Or maybe thats for the stickers that say "Surbocharged" to go with the system?

Just so you know...there is no such thing as a surbocharger for all you idiots who don't get sarcasm

atlblue2000 said:

Unless we all fell asleep (which with the time it takes this thing to cool down after each pull is a distinct possibility), none of the three of us heard a bit of detonation either during a pull or when we put it through the load test.

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mild detonation most always can't be heard but it is there.

dyno it again with 94 octane + 104 booster or try to get some 105 octane gas.

did you get an A/F reading or was it just a dyno with no tune?

my bet is you are leaning out on top or too hot or on top for the A/F ratio.

try chilling the intake off for about 20 minutes with 2 8lb bags of ice then run the dyno as soon as possible or even with the ice still on the intake. i'll bet the problem dissapears.

which autolits are you using? are they the correct heat range for the blower?

with a Vortech I'd go with autolite 604's gapped at .035" or Champion RS12YC (401) gapped at the same. or switch to Denso iridium IT-20's and don't gapp them, as they are at about .048" which is fine for a blower

Procharger