proper camshafts selection

for_honor · Nov 21, 2004

Okay decided on T-Moss lower and having my GT-40 heads ported and polished, now I have a decision to make that I'm nowhere near being an expert at. What's the best camshaft out of the following three to run:
FMS B or E, or the TFS-1??? I've read the reviews on both FMS via stangnet but can't find much on the TFS? Any pointers/advice? Thanks

Rylan

...a little more to work with...I love the rougher idle and I also like mind blowing torque. The car is a daily driver so I'm willing for my gas mileage to suffer but not to the point of breaking the bank.

final5-0 · Nov 21, 2004

for_honor said:
Okay decided on T-Moss lower and having my GT-40 heads ported and polished, now I have a decision to make that I'm nowhere near being an expert at. What's the best camshaft out of the following three to run:
FMS B or E, or the TFS-1??? I've read the reviews on both FMS via stangnet but can't find much on the TFS? Any pointers/advice? Thanks

Rylan

...a little more to work with...I love the rougher idle and I also like mind blowing torque. The car is a daily driver so I'm willing for my gas mileage to suffer but not to the point of breaking the bank.

Mind Blowing Torque you say ......................................................

Ed Curtis can deliver it to you by the truck loads

http://www.flowtechinduction.com/

Later
Grady

wytstang · Nov 21, 2004

Just a heads up our computers do not like the letter cams from ford. Look into the steeda #19 cam it was designed for the 94-95 computer. Take a look at the FAQ section up top they have different cams and specs.

RIO5.0 · Nov 21, 2004

wytstang said:
Just a heads up our computers do not like the letter cams from ford. Look into the steeda #19 cam it was designed for the 94-95 computer. Take a look at the FAQ section up top they have different cams and specs.

For an OTS cam, the 19 works....I run it with no problems...I run 1.6s with it...
set the idle to 750-800 and it'll be fine....got a nice idle and pulls real nice from 2800 on up...
I would suggest 373s to help aid in the little low end grunt you'll lose...

mackey · Nov 21, 2004

The GT40 Heads benefit from a higher exhaust lift than a intake lift. aka .499 intake .512 exhaust. (.499/.512) Plus the heads make peak flow at around .500 lift. I wouldn't go much higher than that on those heads. I had plans to do GT40P's... but then I bought twisted wedges and can say I couldn't be any happier.

Nik_95Cobra · Nov 21, 2004

I second the Ed C cam...Very Popular on here.

JJ95GTID · Nov 21, 2004

Why not the F cam?

The F cam has a .512" lift and a LSA of 114* which is good for our EEC-IV. Also, the duration @ 0.50" lift is 226* using 1.6:1 rockers.

The Steeda #19 cam is almost Identical if you use 1.7:1 rockers. Lift figures to .510" lift and the LSA is 114*. The split duration @ 0.50" is 220* intake and 226* exhaust.

Just a thought and observation

wytstang · Nov 21, 2004

JJ95GTID said:
The F cam has a .512" lift and a LSA of 114* which is good for our EEC-IV. Also, the duration @ 0.50" lift is 226* using 1.6:1 rockers.

Our if you want to be different look into the WG-1087 (Wolverine) 510" int/534" exh lifts and duration @ 0.50" is 222*int/232*exh favoring the exhaust.

Rootus · Nov 21, 2004

wytstang said:
Just a heads up our computers do not like the letter cams from ford. Look into the steeda #19 cam it was designed for the 94-95 computer. Take a look at the FAQ section up top they have different cams and specs.

The 19 is no guarantee. A buddy of mine had the trickflow kit installed, with a Steeda 19 instead of the TFS stage 1, and he still had surging problems. Ended up having to get a chip anyway. I'd say budget for a chip, and don't let the computer become part of the equation.

HazMat404 · Nov 21, 2004

i think ed will be gettinga phone call from me once i get my heads and new intake ready for next spring. ill prettty much be done with my car engine wise so i think a custom cam along with a custom tune will be the end of everything

for_honor · Nov 21, 2004

Whew, mind blowing! I'm not very familiar with cam specs/terminology but from what I gather the Steeda cam is a great way to go? I'm just wondering what would go good with the combo I'll be running (port polish job)? Now as for most aftermarket cams from what I'm reading on them and getting through you guys via the site...they idle rougher and sometimes you have a hard time getting your stock computer adjusted to idle right but once you get past a certain rpm, then that's when you'll see the most performance gains??? Am I correct? But then I might lose bottom end torque, which I could supplement with 3:73s? It's alot of info to soak in --if someone can explain it to me in beginner terms (I'm a little slow, haha) that would be awesome! Should a gear job be figured into my project grand total as well? Thanks again guys the beers on me!

oh and here's the heads but my stock Cobra's ported....

Thumper Heads and Cam combo #1 : Thumper Ported E7s (219/151 cfm)
Vassco springs, moley retainers and keepers
For cams to .590 lift
Double roller timing chain and gear set w/3 position key way
FMS "E" ( for AOD cars) or "B" cam
Instructions on installation and Cam phasing for the best power and performance for you application
Proven 12 sec combination
$890.00 + 100.00 refundable core charge**
http://www.thumperoforangepark.com/

if that helps on the advice end any? Thanks so much guys!

HazMat404 · Nov 21, 2004

even if you dont do a cam, you should do a gear. i went with a 4.10 for my auto but it coulda been a bit much without any type of tuning done to it. gear for sure but its up to you how much. i would probably go a little bit conservative with a 3.73 cause i wish i had that with my t-5 now and i had it with the auto and i redlined every so often which kinda sucked and i had no control of it

final5-0 · Nov 21, 2004

Rylan

Your post has got me to thinking along two lines of thought.

I would not go with any of the alphabet cams as they are kinda outdated.

However..............

The port design on GT40 heads are kinda outdated as well.

Will the outcome of the GT40 heads and cam that complements them (might be an alphabet cam) meet your expectations?

You gotta ask yourself if you will be happy with what performance the older GT40 era provides or do you want to move up to the newer technology and possibly more performance.

I'm not knocking the older technology just cause I'm using the newer. I thought some discussion along these lines might help Rylan and others.

I think we need to remember he said he wanted mind blowing torque

Two Q's and then I'll wait for everybodys replies.

1. How much RWHP & RWTQ do you give up if any by using the older stuff?

2. Rylan .... what goals or expectations do you have for your combo?

Later
Grady

for_honor · Nov 21, 2004

Now that's the million dollar question and here's the $1500 answer. That's all my budget will allow right now so I think I'm stuck with the stock GT-40 port job. I understand the new and old technology, things always seem to progress in that matter but I have to stay within the confines of my budget and from what others have said, I think the most bang for my buck would be the port job T-moss lower and a new cam? As stated though I'm by no means an expert so I'm just looking for the Mustang Gods to point a young man in the right direction.

goals and expectations, I'd like at least 80 more horses and generally just a faster car. I'm satisfied with my torque right now but I don't want to lose any that's for sure. I'm already having troulbe hooking up the 285 Kumhos that sit on the rear!

wytstang · Nov 21, 2004

for_honor said:
they idle rougher and sometimes you have a hard time getting your stock computer adjusted to idle right but once you get past a certain rpm, then that's when you'll see the most performance gains???

The 94/95 cumputers are very sensative when it comes to cam duration(how long the the lifters ride the cam lode i.e keeping the valves open longer/shorter) because of this most sn95 owner must either set there idle to about 900rpms to keep the car from surging or shutting off at every stop. Others must run a chip or EEC tuner to solve this problem. Most cams start to shine around 3000 rpms and last till about 5500 depending on the cam you choose. There's more to it but that's just a really fast break down som what.

for_honor said:
But then I might lose bottom end torque, which I could supplement with 3:73s?

Gears help keep your car in higher rpms or in it's power range which will help off set the loose in torque in the lower rpm range.

for_honor · Nov 21, 2004

WYTSTANG...thanks for breaking it down, I think I'm catching on here. So with that combo what kind of lift/duration do you see me needing?

wytstang · Nov 21, 2004

Or just View attachment 520402 and call it a day.

for_honor · Nov 21, 2004

man, hate to say it but for some odd reason I'm scared to touch the bottle!!!

I'm sticking to porting my current heads I'm just dead on this cam selection. Too many choices and not enough information in my nugget! Thanks for all the help though, greatly appreciated, just trying to get my car there, you know?

wytstang · Nov 21, 2004

Since your keeping everything pretty much stock and just having it ported I would go with eithe the steeda #19 cam Valve Lift Intake w/1.6 rockers-.480, Valve Lift Exhaust w/1.6 rockers-.480, Duration Intake (at .050)-220, Duration Exhaust (at .050) w/1.6 rockers-226, Lobe Center-115 or the
Crower 15511, Valve Lift Intake w/1.6 rockers-.468, Valve Lift Exhaust w/1.6 rockers-.486, Duration Intake (at .050)-218, Duration Exhaust (at .050)-224, Lobe Center-114 both are Emission Legal.
There are more cam spec in the FAQ section.

final5-0 · Nov 21, 2004

for_honor said:
Now that's the million dollar question and here's the $1500 answer. That's all my budget will allow right now so I think I'm stuck with the stock GT-40 port job. I understand the new and old technology, things always seem to progress in that matter but I have to stay within the confines of my budget and from what others have said, I think the most bang for my buck would be the port job T-moss lower and a new cam? As stated though I'm by no means an expert so I'm just looking for the Mustang Gods to point a young man in the right direction.

goals and expectations, I'd like at least 80 more horses and generally just a faster car. I'm satisfied with my torque right now but I don't want to lose any that's for sure. I'm already having troulbe hooking up the 285 Kumhos that sit on the rear!

Rylan

I'm with you on that budget thing

The other guys have given you the straight skinny about gears and how they can help cover up a combo that is soft down low.

I just saw your post count and .... welcome to you

Lots of good guys on this forum with good knowledge they are willing to share and not too much bickering or childish behavior.

Most Everybody here is good about helping out and that is why I kinda hang out here more than other forums.

I'm gonna poke around and see if I can find some dyno pulls of combos that are similar to what you are putting together. If I can find them I put them up.

Later
Grady

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