proper disc to flywheel clearance...help

I've never measured that distance. I just adjust the freeplay in the clutch pedal. How would you adjust that clearance?

clearance is clearance

If it is on both sides and all around the circumference, as well as from the center to the edge.
Does it go into reverse easily from a dead stop? If so, it's not your clutch.

Anyways thats kind of a tough way to do it. Just throw jackstands under the axle tubes to keep the wheels off the ground. Put the car in neutral, and start it up with the clutch pedal depressed. wait a few seconds and put it in gear. If the wheels start turning, you clutch is not fully disengaged. If the wheels don't start turning the problem isn't your clutch.
If it's the clutch, check the diaphram fingers to make sure they are all perfectly even in distance to the T.O. bearing. Next with the pedal depressed all the way, the clutch disc should move a little back and forth, on all three open sides of the P. Plate.

As many times as I've heard don't use antiseize on the input shaft splines, I still use just a real thin haze of it. Keeps the clutch disc loose on the input shaft. I've spun motors to +7K rpms w/o any issues of the antiseize flinging off. Also rough or worn spines will cause the disc to stick as well.

Good luck,

grego37 said:

goes into reverse fine.
I cant measure everywhere, just that one window area in the p/p,ate assy.
I did the jackstand trick, and the wheels dont turn, in gear with the clutch depressed.
checked the t/o bearing and diaphram relationship, and all seems good, nice even space about 1/2 the thickness of a dime, almost touching.

maybe its just normal wear and tear

Click to expand...

The blocking ring or 2nd gears engagement teeth are probably worn. Second gear synchro's would normally be the first to go since they tend to get banged more often than the other gears.