Engine Proper Tensioner

Swhitney

Active Member
Feb 11, 2019
175
7
28
Oregon City
I am looking for ideas on what is the best way to route my belt setup.

Currently the manual tensioner is just okay, and can be a bit annoying because I've eaten up a few alternator bearings (thank you lifetime warranty). Also, when tensioning the system I'm not sure if it's too loose or too tight. I would like to put a tensioner in the mix that way I don't have to mess with the adjuster. Only thing is I want to keep it very clean.

Here is my current setup:

Photo May 18, 2 08 26 PM.jpg
 
  • Sponsors (?)


If your eating up alt bearings your belt is way too tight... Manual adjustment was how it was done for decades before the spring tensioners were introduced....
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I've had this setup since 99 and it has never caused me any problems. I would assume you've got your tension way to tight. Loosen that up so you have a tiny bit of movement when you press down on belt with your hand (engine off obviously)
 
The lack of belt wrap around the water pump pulley concerns me. If you are cooking bearings than it's too tight, but loosening it may cause another issue which would be belt slippage on that pulley at high RPM or high acceleration.
 
Last edited:
The lack of belt wrap around the water pump pulley concerns me. If you are cooking bearings than it's too tight, but loosening it may cause another issue which would be belt slippage on that pulley at high RPM or high acceleration.

I would wrap the belt around the outside of that pulley, which should keep rotation the same and prevent slippage
That would reverse the flow, he would have to put the standard rotation water pump on it which would also resolve the issue I think, I believe reversing the flow would not be detrimental to cooling.
You would also need the grooved wp pulley.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
So I would agree that it would eat up bearings if it was too tight, but I would say it’s pretty dang loose. The long length side is floppy when running. I also think these 130 amp alternators are extremely cheap making me believe that’s part of the problem. I assumed a tensioner would make things work better since they move depending on RPM.

I agree that the water pump isn’t getting a lot of contact. It seems to hold temp at all times. I might take care of this issue down the road when I get more time.
What’s the part number for a standard rotation water pump?
 
That would reverse the flow, he would have to put the standard rotation water pump on it which would also resolve the issue I think, I believe reversing the flow would not be detrimental to cooling.
You would also need the grooved wp pulley.


Ah dammit.

Need to finish my coffee first before posting. You are absolutely right.

Still, if he is going to loosen the belt, that amount of belt wrap on the WP pulley would concern me
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user
Ah dammit.

Need to finish my coffee first before posting. You are absolutely right.

Still, if he is going to loosen the belt, that amount of belt wrap on the WP pulley would concern me
From my experience It would only be a possible issue if he was still running the factory mechanical clutch cooling fan but given his shaved engine bay, lack of accessories I assumed he wasn't when I made my post but I could totally see how that little bit of contact would draw concern. I say give it try for a little bit and see if it fits the bill.. at least until you pickup the standard rotation pump

If op wants to go the standard rotation pump route then he has to have at full size cars like the Lincoln's for a pump. Also from what I've seen you don't need a ribbed pulley but most like it to be safe.
 
Could you be going through alt bearings because of too much wrap on the alt? It seems like both sides of the belt are pulling down hard on the alt. IDK. I always get my 3G alts from the PA Performance bargain bin. Quality alts at cheap prices.
Also, that water pump wrap ain't gonna do it. A standard rotation pump with a grooved serp pulley is the way too go. Less wrap on the alt and more wrap on the pump. Just my .02 cents. Here's mine. Standard rotation pump on a '93 motor w/homemade alt mounts........

engine21.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Swhitne,
+ 1 on it's too tight if burning up alternator bearings
I would like to see you put the alt on the other head to correct the belt issue
Then reconfigure your tensioner and do get a belt tension gauge they are cheap
 
Switching sides won’t do it.
1D58CC06-BDAC-4A58-998A-50B8B0158E6A.jpeg

If you want to run a different tensioner you’d need to swap to a standard rotation water pump. No need, this setup works fine. The tension gauge may help I’m this situation.
 
Switching sides won’t do it.
1D58CC06-BDAC-4A58-998A-50B8B0158E6A.jpeg

If you want to run a different tensioner you’d need to swap to a standard rotation water pump. No need, this setup works fine. The tension gauge may help I’m this situation.
Switching sides and keeping the wrap on the waterpump going. So it ends up with 270 degrees of belt on the waterpump is what I mean
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
What I am saying is to put an idler where the alternator is now and move the alternator to the drivers side
That will require a longer belt and the water pump will have roughly 270 degrees of belt on it
The water pump will still be running counterclockwise like you need