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Proverbial Chicken / egg query.. T5 vs stock axles

  • Thread starter Thread starter skiwesser11
  • Start date Start date Mar 8, 2019
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skiwesser11

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Mar 10, 2019
#21
  • Mar 10, 2019
  • #21
Car is dyno tuned, plugs are autolight of stock heat range,(can’t remember number right off) I tried a colder heat range a while back and it seemed even worse best I remember.. was going by the 2* per 50 rule as far as timing.. again “trying” to stay on safe side... I’m hoping there’s a safe side at this level anyway... although TB injection isn’t safest I know but at 100-150 max I always assumed/“heard” it was nothing lol..... only now am I actually trying to use it other than just playing around then quitting with not stellar results...until I get better information/understanding.
Thanks again gents!!
 

Gear grabber

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#22
  • Mar 10, 2019
  • #22
I would go at least 1 heat range colder (with nitrous) and would not use autolites or projected plugs.
I just went to NGK 5671A-9 at .030 that is 3 heat ranges colder then stock.
 
Last edited: Mar 10, 2019

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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#23
  • Mar 11, 2019
  • #23
I'd do the axles as stated previously. You don't want to experience a broken one. C clip eliminators are a must at least.

The t5 will break...just a question of when. I've been running a 4cyl t5 behind several engines over the last bunch of years. This combo I have now will break it for sure. Guess we'll find out shortly.
 

skiwesser11

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Mar 11, 2019
#24
  • Mar 11, 2019
  • #24
Gear grabber said:
You did not ask,but with a 150 shot you are at 500 h.p..
You could split a stock block as well.
Click to expand...
And 500 at wheel is roughly 85% of crank hp through a T5 is that correct??
 

skiwesser11

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Mar 11, 2019
#25
  • Mar 11, 2019
  • #25
Gear grabber said:
I would go at least 1 heat range colder (with nitrous) and would not use autolites or projected plugs.
I just went to NGK 5671A-9 at .030 that is 3 heat ranges colder then stock.
Click to expand...
Do you happen to know stock plug heat range NGK number?? Seems like I’ve had NGK’s that didn’t run as well as the autolites and I was surprised... but could have had colder range plugs or a bad set or something, didn’t try them again... I’m running autolite 3924’s currently
 

skiwesser11

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Jun 19, 2012
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Rock Hill, South Carolina
Mar 11, 2019
#26
  • Mar 11, 2019
  • #26
Gear grabber said:
With no knowledge of the o.p.'s compression,total timing,AFR etc. Making a blanket timing statement is not a good idea.
Click to expand...
I don’t know actual compression ratio but it’s a “306” stock crank, eagle rods, forged pistons, AFR 165 heads w/58cc chambers, Ed Curtis cam, RPM 2 intake, 65mm TB, pro-m 80mm MAF, 24lb injectors, long tubes....professionally tuned on dyno so AFR is good but I also do not know total timing... I think he said 32*..?but I don’t know for sure
Thanks again guys
 

Noobz347

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Mar 12, 2019
#27
  • Mar 12, 2019
  • #27
I've broken 2 WC T5s on Cooper Cobras and still have the stock axles.

It's been to the track 4 times (ever) and never been on slicks.

That is all.
 
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RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
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#28
  • Mar 12, 2019
  • #28
Be careful spraying on a tuned car. The timing advance is programmed in the chip or computer and may not be retarded enough by simply changing base timing.

Joe
 

skiwesser11

5 Year Member
Jun 19, 2012
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Rock Hill, South Carolina
Apr 8, 2019
#29
  • Apr 8, 2019
  • #29
RangerJoe said:
Be careful spraying on a tuned car. The timing advance is programmed in the chip or computer and may not be retarded enough by simply changing base timing.

Joe
Click to expand...
The tuner told me I was fine to retard for nitrous but optimally I should bring it back and put a “nitrous tune” on it as well as the SCT chip is switchable and will hold 4... I didn’t know that and still don’t know if there would be a cable coming from it at that point to switch between “tunes”?? I believe that’s what he told me when we first tuned it 15 years ago and would switch from glove compartment now that I think about it hard..
at any rate I’ve got the non protruding NGK’s in a 6 heat range for an 80hp shot (also have some -7’s if needed) .., will be retarding 3 degrees... I am still afraid to go by the only jet chart I can find online (or anywhere else) for this obviously very rare ‘TNW’ throttle body plate I have... I’m going by the calculator for a single fogger nozzle as the chart for plate shows considerably SMALLER fuel and LARGER nitrous jets than calc says for single nozzle for all levels..80, 100, 125, and 150... I know the plate distributes differently than a fogger nozzle but the differences scare me lol.... and the plate doesn’t have a part number on it... I’m just going to err on safety’s side and be disappointed until I talk to someone with experience with said plate, if I can ever find that person....thanks for the info and help gentlemen
I will be trying to learn to “read” the plugs but not sure if 80-100 shot is enough to leave the timing mark on strap or anything I’m seeing to look for.
 
Last edited: Apr 8, 2019
D

Deleted member 215073

Apr 8, 2019
#30
  • Apr 8, 2019
  • #30
Noobz347 said:
I've broken 2 WC T5s on Cooper Cobras and still have the stock axles.

It's been to the track 4 times (ever) and never been on slicks.

That is all.
Click to expand...
I broke 3 T5WC's in my '85 with the same tires. That car had a total of 11 transmissions in it when I sold it. 4.10 gears, stock axles, and a mild 302 engine with the almighty B cam.
 
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