Put dizzy in wrong???I dont know

R

rowdie- stang

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Apr 20, 2003

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augusta ga

Aug 25, 2005

#1

• Aug 25, 2005

• #1

Is it possible to put the diizy in wrong and the car still runs but idles high and overheats rather fast.........I put a new stroker motor, complete fuel system, and painless wiring harness all at the same time, I am running out of ideas on what my problem could be. I have pulled and put back in the dizzy a few times now. I might just be having a brain fart and doing it wrong. I DONT KNOW. I feel like a friggin idiot. It has been a year and half project and it does this to me. somebody please help

 

hllon4whls

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Jan 17, 2002

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Covington

Aug 25, 2005

#2

• Aug 25, 2005

• #2

There is debate over this. IMO as long as number one lines up properly, it will work perfrectly -from my experience.

 

troyGT03

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Feb 22, 2004

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too close to memphis,tn

Aug 25, 2005

#3

• Aug 25, 2005

• #3

possible if it is very advanced. does the engine drag when started hot? if so, could be the prob. sounds like a very lean condition.

 

R

rowdie- stang

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Apr 20, 2003

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augusta ga

Aug 25, 2005

#4

• Aug 25, 2005

• #4

I dont see how I can have a lean condition even though it is a possibility. I put a complete aeromotive fuel system in the car and the fp is set at 45 now. If I have the timing adjusted to 10btdc it idles real high and overheats in a few minutes I can back it down to 0btdc and it idles great but still overheats.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Aug 25, 2005

#5

• Aug 25, 2005

• #5

Hllon is spot-on. If the timing light has the timing where you want it, it is stabbed correctly.
Theoretically you could stab the dizzy in any-which way you wanted, if the dizzy was able to rotate 360* without clearance issues.

Good luck.

 

sgarlic

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Apr 21, 2001

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Aug 25, 2005

#6

• Aug 25, 2005

• #6

Hmm.. so how many minutes does it actually take to overheat the thing? I know strokers run hot but I've never had a vehicle that got up to operating temp and overheated in a matter of minutes.

I'm by no means a pro, but from the sounds of it, your overheating issue isn't related to the timing (now that I re-read your post that seems quite obvious since you mentioned you still overheat even when you mess with the timing. )

The only way I could imagine a vehicle getting up to operating temp then overheating in minutes would be if there's no water circulating, or if your water passages are hella blocked.

Sorry for the rambling.. I feel your pain about having spent lots of time on it now you have this. Well, let us know what you find out when you solve the mystery.

 

R

rowdie- stang

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Apr 20, 2003

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augusta ga

Aug 26, 2005

#7

• Aug 26, 2005

• #7

Well I tried bleeding air out of the cooling system and that didnt work so I guess I will pull the top of the motor and the heads off and see what I can find. I have had patience for a long time now what is another weekend!!!!!

Apprieciate all the help fellas

 

HISSIN50

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Aug 26, 2005

#8

• Aug 26, 2005

• #8

I would want to do a lot more diagnostics before tearing things down.

Have you used an auxillary temp guage to monitor temps? Is the stat definately opening?

For the idle, are you sure there are no vac leaks?

I could go on and on. I would at least look over some more simple stuff before tearing into it.
Good luck.

 

R

rowdie- stang

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Apr 20, 2003

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augusta ga

Aug 26, 2005

#9

• Aug 26, 2005

• #9

No I havent done very much diagnostic on it because I can only let it run for about 2 mins max. before the gauge pegs at 250. I have a strange feeling that it is the water openings on the head gaskets. I will however check the thermostat just to make sure it is opening before I tear it down. I am also going to replace all the vacuum lines to be safe also. Is there anywhere that could cause a vacuum leak other than the vacuum hoses and the intake.

 

sgarlic

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Apr 21, 2001

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Aug 26, 2005

#10

• Aug 26, 2005

• #10

Like I said above, I would think the only way it could go from full cold to overheat condition in 2 minutes is if water isn't circulating.. but I guess that wouldn't make sense if it weren't circulating how it would register a temperature at all on the gauge.

But like JT said it might be worthwhile hooking up an aftermarket temperature gauge, etc. Definately do some basic troubleshooting before you tear it up!

 

04sleeper

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Jun 22, 2002

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Dallas, TX

Aug 26, 2005

#11

• Aug 26, 2005

• #11

rowdie- stang said:

No I havent done very much diagnostic on it because I can only let it run for about 2 mins max. before the gauge pegs at 250. I have a strange feeling that it is the water openings on the head gaskets. I will however check the thermostat just to make sure it is opening before I tear it down. I am also going to replace all the vacuum lines to be safe also. Is there anywhere that could cause a vacuum leak other than the vacuum hoses and the intake.

Click to expand...

2 minutes max to 250? Thats sounds quick to me. You can check the thermostat with a temp gauge in water on a stove.

You could be getting a vacuum leak from the intake gasket not being sealed right.

 

HISSIN50

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Aug 26, 2005

#12

• Aug 26, 2005

• #12

I would remove the stat and put the housing back on and run it. Now you know coolant should flow. You can also put a turkey thermometer in the radiator cap orifice and note temps.

Andy is spot on - it would take a little bit to radiantly heat the block and coolant enough to peg the gauge.

Without burning or injuring yourself, is the motor even hot after 2 mins (when the guage is pegged)?

Good luck.