putting a stroker kit together

mustang70

Founding Member

Nov 15, 2001

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San Diego

Aug 2, 2004

#1

• Aug 2, 2004

• #1

Has anyone put their own stroker kit together? I was looking at a kit through CHP and then I went and looked at the parts seperately. I know the kit includes rings and bearings as well. My main concern was the balancing, but I'll have to get the kit balanced anyway. I'm just wondering what your experiences were. Thanks.

 

Route666

Active Member

Aug 16, 2003

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Brisbane, Australia

Aug 3, 2004

#2

• Aug 3, 2004

• #2

As long as you buy the pistons as a set, and the rods as a set, ie: the same brand and "model" of piston or rod, they will weigh pretty much the same, and will balance well.

The only thing you have to worry about is matching wrist pins, journal diametres, deck and compression heights, yada yada.

 

mustang70

Founding Member

Nov 15, 2001

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Aug 3, 2004

#3

• Aug 3, 2004

• #3

Hmmm.....I didn't think about the wrist pins and deck height. Something else I was thinking though, is that if I get the pistons seperately then I can make sure they will get the compression I want with whatever heads I use.

This is why I start my research early.

 

brianj5600

Active Member

Sep 19, 2003

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Middle TN

Aug 3, 2004

#4

• Aug 3, 2004

• #4

What is the problem with buying a kit? They are cheaper and less hassle.

 

mustang70

Founding Member

Nov 15, 2001

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Aug 3, 2004

#5

• Aug 3, 2004

• #5

The kit I was looking at is $1400. So far I've found the stroker crank and rods for a little over $500. All I need are the pistons to complete the kit.

 

Max Power

Active Member

Jul 31, 2003

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St Paul

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#6

• Aug 3, 2004

• #6

Actually, you need pistons (forged), rings, main and rod bearings to complete the kit.

I bought the base CHP 393 kit for $950 in February with .040 forged pistons already flycut to fit aftermarket heads. Hard to beat that deal, IMO.

 

S

slapper

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Mar 6, 2002

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#7

• Aug 3, 2004

• #7

Max Power said:

Actually, you need pistons (forged), rings, main and rod bearings to complete the kit.
I bought the base CHP 393 kit for $950 in February with .040 forged pistons already flycut to fit aftermarket heads. Hard to beat that deal, IMO.

Click to expand...

The last 393 stroker kit I got from CHP did not live up to my expectations.
1969 block was specified, and the main bearings and dished Probe pistons were for a 72 and later block. Mains had the tang on the wrong side journal-didn't work.
The pistons were for the taller deck height block, and had to machine .020 from the tops to get .005 in the hole. The Total Seal rings supplied gapped all over the world and back--returned.
The cast steel crank supplied was an "RPM" model rather than the specified SCAT, and took 2 1/2 slugs of malloy to properly balance=$$.
I got a 331 kit from them a few years ago and the rods supplied were for a large journal small block. They made good on most issues, but were not in any hurry to do so. I was disappointed to say the least.

 

jasonn

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Sep 26, 2002

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By Rochester MN

Aug 3, 2004

#8

• Aug 3, 2004

• #8

Give Brian at adperformance.com a call. Very knowledgeable and helpful. Also the cheapest prices I could find on the "good" parts. Not the cheap crap.

 

mustang70

Founding Member

Nov 15, 2001

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Aug 3, 2004

#9

• Aug 3, 2004

• #9

I understand I also need the rings and bearings, but I don't think those, along with the pistons, are going to cost me $900.

Does adperformance carry the 427 set up?

 

jasonn

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Sep 26, 2002

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By Rochester MN

Aug 3, 2004

#10

• Aug 3, 2004

• #10

mustang70 said:

I understand I also need the rings and bearings, but I don't think those, along with the pistons, are going to cost me $900.

Does adperformance carry the 427 set up?

Click to expand...

Yes brian has them too. He actually threw the rings and bearing in also. Check his websit out or give him a call. I would get the balance job done locally though.

 

RajunCajun

New Member

Nov 26, 2003

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Aug 3, 2004

#11

• Aug 3, 2004

• #11

guess ill plug his site, ive also had good experences from him

http://www.adperformance.com/

on there stroker 351 kits ignore the typos you see just call em for the detailed specs

 

Route666

Active Member

Aug 16, 2003

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Brisbane, Australia

Aug 4, 2004

#12

• Aug 4, 2004

• #12

mustang70 said:

Hmmm.....I didn't think about the wrist pins and deck height. Something else I was thinking though, is that if I get the pistons seperately then I can make sure they will get the compression I want with whatever heads I use.

This is why I start my research early.

Click to expand...

I was planning (for a 331 stroker) to build my own, because the kits I've seen don't use 5.4" rods, they use shorter ones. I was thinking 5.4" H-Beams, with .917 (or 927, I can't remember) wrist pins, and custom pistons, to match a zero deck height on an 8.2" deck-height block with a 3.25" crank. Also with custom pistons, you can get the top ring gap made a bit tighter, so the vertical gas-porting will work more effectively with the lesser-tension rings.

If you want mentoring on early planning, I'm the man, lol, I've been going for 6 years, and still don't have a stang yet.

Anticipation, after all, is everything.

 

mustang70

Founding Member

Nov 15, 2001

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Aug 4, 2004

#13

• Aug 4, 2004

• #13

Do the longer rods make for a better rod ratio?

 

Route666

Active Member

Aug 16, 2003

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Brisbane, Australia

Aug 5, 2004

#14

• Aug 5, 2004

• #14

So I've heard, yes. Apparently a 331 with 5.4" rods has "the magic ratio" of 1.76 or something.

 

mustang70

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Nov 15, 2001

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Aug 5, 2004

#15

• Aug 5, 2004

• #15

What is the formula for figuring out rod ratio?

 

Hack

15 Year Member

Mar 23, 2004

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Minneapolis

Aug 5, 2004

#16

• Aug 5, 2004

• #16

mustang70 said:

What is the formula for figuring out rod ratio?

Click to expand...

Hehe, I don't know the answer for a fact but I had to post anyway.

Have you tried using rod length divided by stroke to see what answer that gives you?

 

mustang70

Founding Member

Nov 15, 2001

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San Diego

Aug 5, 2004

#17

• Aug 5, 2004

• #17

Ok, going with Hack's way I come up with a ratio of 1.46 with a 6.125" rod and 1.36 with a 5.7" rod (which I'm sure is stock, but don't quote me). Would the .10 make that big of a difference? I'm just curious.

 

Route666

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Aug 16, 2003

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Brisbane, Australia

Aug 6, 2004

#18

• Aug 6, 2004

• #18

If you're doing a 331, you have to fit it in an 8.2" deck height. half of the stroke + rod length + compression height = deck height. You won't get pistons smaller than 1" CH, as there needs to be space for rings, and you don't really want the wrist pin invading oil ring territory.

so 8.2 - 1.625 - 1 = 5.575 means you'll need rods shorter than 5.5" approximately. Also, longer rods are weaker inherently, as a trait of length.

Which gives you 5.4" rods, for a nice number, and a bit more room for the CH of the pistons, so the rings don't have to be so far up, which can weaken the crown.

That's the observations I've made. They may not be correct, in fact, if not, I'd like someone to say so, and why.

 

mustang70

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Nov 15, 2001

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San Diego

Aug 6, 2004

#19

• Aug 6, 2004

• #19

I'm going with a 9.5" deck height. I'm going to be using a 72 351W block. So it sounds like if I can get away with a slightly shorter rod I might be better off. Less chance of the rod breaking? Not that I'm worried about that being much on an issue really.

 

Route666

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Aug 16, 2003

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Brisbane, Australia

Aug 6, 2004

#20

• Aug 6, 2004

• #20

I thought you might have been using a 351 block, after I posted of course. lol. Go with the longest you can with that, you want the rod to be as straight as possible, hence, as long as possible. That has as much, if not more bearing on how much power the rod will handle than its length.