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Q

  • Thread starter Thread starter Venom_Nitrous
  • Start date Start date Apr 18, 2005

Venom_Nitrous

Founding Member
Aug 23, 2002
416
1
0
Spearfish, SD
Apr 18, 2005
#1
  • Apr 18, 2005
  • #1
My car runs like ****! I tested my TPS voltage and when the throttle is closed, it reads 1.22 volts. When it is WOT it is at 5.40 volts. Isn't it supposed to be at like .98 at WOT. I am testing the middle wire of the 3. The top reads a full 12 volts and the bottem is a ground. The middle one is the one that changes when i open it. I just had it replaced. Could it be the wrong one. The car is the one in the sig. My car sounds like it has a monster cam in it when it idles low after first starting up like it is missing a cylinder. Then when I touch the gas, the RPM's hang at like 1700-3000 and won't go down unless I unplug the iac. What the hec is going on here. Maybe I can make a vid tomorrow.
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
7
89
the people's republic of massachusetts
Apr 18, 2005
#2
  • Apr 18, 2005
  • #2
nope your right in range... the tps voltage at idle can range from .53-1.27 at idle..

look elsewhere tps's hardly ever go bad.. i have replaced 1 in several years as a ford EEC specialist.. and that was on a 24 valve taurus

is your check engine light on... if so get me codes...

idle, WOT need more info... does it skip.. shutter on accel???
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
7
89
the people's republic of massachusetts
Apr 18, 2005
#3
  • Apr 18, 2005
  • #3
Venom_Nitrous said:
My car runs like ****! I tested my TPS voltage and when the throttle is closed, it reads 1.22 volts. When it is WOT it is at 5.40 volts. Isn't it supposed to be at like .98 at WOT. I am testing the middle wire of the 3. The top reads a full 12 volts and the bottem is a ground. The middle one is the one that changes when i open it. I just had it replaced. Could it be the wrong one. The car is the one in the sig. My car sounds like it has a monster cam in it when it idles low after first starting up like it is missing a cylinder. Then when I touch the gas, the RPM's hang at like 1700-3000 and won't go down unless I unplug the iac. What the hec is going on here. Maybe I can make a vid tomorrow.
Click to expand...

quote from the PC/ED book 2000 mustang said:
Idle Speed Control Closed Throttle Determination
One of the fundamental criteria for entering rpm control is an indication of closed throttle. Throttle mode is always calculated to the lowest learned throttle position (TP) voltage seen since engine start. This lowest learned value is called "ratch," since the software acts like a one-way ratch. The ratch value (voltage) is displayed as the TPREL PID. The ratch value is relearned after every engine start. Ratch will learn the lowest, steady TP voltage seen after the engine starts. In some cases, ratch can learn higher values of TP. The time to learn the higher values is significantly longer than the time to learn the lower values. The brakes must also be applied to learn the longer values.

All PCM functions are done using this ratch voltage, including idle speed control. The PCM goes into closed throttle mode when the TP voltage is at the ratch (TPREL PID) value. Increase in TP voltage, normally less than 0.05 volts, will put the PCM in part throttle mode. Throttle mode can be viewed by looking at the TP MODE PID. With the throttle closed, the PID must read C/T (closed throttle). Slightly corrupt values of ratch can prevent the PCM from entering closed throttle mode. An incorrect part throttle indication at idle will prevent entry into closed throttle rpm control, and could result in a high idle. Ratch can be corrupted by a throttle position sensor or circuit that "drops out" or is noisy, or by loose/worn throttle plates that close tight during a decel and spring back at a normal engine vacuum.
Click to expand...



this is how the pcm learns idle based on tp being in closed throttle position.. as long as when you off the gas the tp mode reads c/t then your all set here..

a bad iac (idle air control) motor can cause a high rpm idle.. try tapping the iac with a hammer (dont kill the damm thing... tap it) and see if the iac comes down..

i do not think the problem is in the iac with the info you are giving me now.. that car should stall right out with the iac unplugged and the throttle closed... so that indicates a few things too me.. it's getting air from somewhere other than the IAC durring closed throttle.. that may be from a sticking throttle or from a massive intake leak...

i would look at those things first and report back..
 

Venom_Nitrous

Founding Member
Aug 23, 2002
416
1
0
Spearfish, SD
Apr 19, 2005
#4
  • Apr 19, 2005
  • #4
MikeZ28 said:
this is how the pcm learns idle based on tp being in closed throttle position.. as long as when you off the gas the tp mode reads c/t then your all set here..

a bad iac (idle air control) motor can cause a high rpm idle.. try tapping the iac with a hammer (dont kill the damm thing... tap it) and see if the iac comes down..

i do not think the problem is in the iac with the info you are giving me now.. that car should stall right out with the iac unplugged and the throttle closed... so that indicates a few things too me.. it's getting air from somewhere other than the IAC durring closed throttle.. that may be from a sticking throttle or from a massive intake leak...

i would look at those things first and report back..
Click to expand...
OK, When I unhook the hose from the IAC it still runs for like 30 seconds and then chokes out or sputters the whole time and dies later. If I unplug the electrical connection the idle drops to about 800 but surges. Is there a gasket between the lower intake and the plenum or is it just the blue rubber band thing? I think I have a massive air leak somewhere. BTW I just put on a new IAC.
 
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