quadrant kit installation..

The clutch quad, if so have fun taking the old one off. way under the dash and you have to break the old one off just did it on my stang and it was a pita. But other then that went smooth.

Its easy but like above sometimes the old one is a pain to get out due to you being upside down, cramped up under the dash. Needle nose pliers help out tremendously.

It's a 1-2 hour job. I hope you're not a big guy. Getting in under the dash is the only marginally difficult part of the job. I usually slide the seat all the way back and lay backwards on my back, feet towards the roof, and get my head under the dash. If you are a really big fella you may want to consider removing the seat.

It is not really that bad. The hard part is getting the stock one off, but there is a trick to it. Both the quad and pawl are held on by springs. If you take a small flatblade screwdriver and pop the springs loose from the metal brackets they will come right off. Go to www.maximummotorsports.com and look at their installation directions. It shows a good picture of the assembly out of the car. Do yourself a favor and remove the driver's seat before you begin. Also be careful when you pull the clips out, because they will go flying, and you need to reuse them. I used a tool that looks like an awl with the sharp end bent into a hook to pull the pins. I couldn't get them with the needlenose pliers. Good luck.

If you are a big guy, plan on taking the driver's front seat out and laying a piece of plywood over the exposed seat mount studs. I have been told that it is much easier if you peel the carpet back from under the clutch pedal.

The clutch quadrant kit I used (FMS) was somewhat of a pain to install. This was because I had a real bear of a time getting the old quadrant out due to lack of clearance between the shaft that supports the quadrant and a bracket that was welded under the dash.

When you put the new quadrant in, the quadrant support shaft and the pin in the end of the clutch pedal MUST be absolutely parallel. Mine wasn’t and I ended up drilling the clutch pivot pin hole in the new quadrant slightly oversize to get it to fit.

The FMS cable has a steel ring with an ear with a hole in it on the firewall end of the cable. I pushed the ring flush with the firewall and drilled a hole through the ear and put a sheet metal screw in it to hold the cable in place – makes the whole thing easier to assemble & adjust.

The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Have fun and keep lots of Band-Aids handy – you may need them.

read the www.steeda.com quadrant installation instructions.

click,"about us",then "tech articles",then "double hook clutch quad".
I`ve never done this job personally yet,but they mention depressing the clutch pedal to the floor in some stock quadrant removal steps that I`ve never heard mentioned before.