question about ring orientation

[old_blue]

buddy and I are disagreeing about where the ring gaps go on the piston. actually there are three of us having the debate.

here are the options-
1: all rings are to be alternated 6 oclock then 12 oclock
2: only the oiler and the the adjacent (rings directly above and below) need to be alternated. the top and bottom cna be whatever
3: set the oil ring and the two rings above and below it gapped at three different positions then the top and bottom rings 180 deg different.

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

All three should be staggered. 180 from the one above it.

Took that out of my Universal Tech Institute book.

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

my bad on the double post.

But other than that, just keep em staggered, and you'll get less blowby. and better break-in

 

[old_blue]

when you say all three are you talking about the oiler rings with the upper and lower ring or just the oiler rings.

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

Here is a diagram of what I am talking about.

In the diagram, "A" is the Oil Ring Spacer Opening
"B" is the Oil Ring Rail Gaps
"C" is the second Rings Gap
"D" is the Top Ring Gap.

Also note the orientation of the piston in the block.

In no way should any of the ring gaps overlap another.

 

[old_blue]

seems like you agree with option 3 then. That was my option. thanks for the diagram. I know it ges confusing by just trying to explain it.

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

I did mine over the winter, and I have perfect circle brand rings that came with these instructions that I used:

"A" is the Oil Ring Spacer Opening (position not used)
"B" is the Oil Ring Rail Gaps
-*more like 11 oclock close to the left side "B" should be bottom oil ring gap;
-but right side "B" is the starting position for the expander, the ending range for the expander is like "5 oclock" this position is not that critical- I personally used the right side B location exactly.
-the 7 oclock position should be the top oil ring gap

"C" is the second Rings Gap +1
"D" is the Top Ring Gap. +1

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

That works just fine. The version I posted was simply taken out of a book that I default to when I have a question myself. It is the method used by most of todays manufacturers and engine rebuilders.