anyone know how to set/check the timing with a timing GUN. it connects to the battery terminals and then clamps on the #1 spark plug. maybe a timing light and a timing gun are two different things? i dunno, just wondering.
question on setting timing!
- Thread starter 1991vert
- Start date
red goes to postive, black goes to ground, and the tap goes around #1 jst like you stated.
You need to pull out the SPOUT connector, on your 91 it is right near the distributer, it is a small square type plug. Once you pull it out you cna pull the trigger on the timing light/gun and see where the timing is set. If you have the model with a dial set it at "0" and take your intial reading.
You need to pull out the SPOUT connector, on your 91 it is right near the distributer, it is a small square type plug. Once you pull it out you cna pull the trigger on the timing light/gun and see where the timing is set. If you have the model with a dial set it at "0" and take your intial reading.
chaka
Founding Member
sometimes i think i should have handicapped plates. can someone take a picture or something? i think the timing is at 16* is that too much?
the spout. find the wiring harness that goes to the distributor (there are a bunch of wires that go to a module on the side - the TFI module). put your hand on the wires at the connector on the distributor. now trace them backwards (toward the windshield). maybe 6-8 inches back, you will see that there are two wires that come out of the harness and go to a plastic plug. the plug may have tape on the end. remove tape (if applicable) and pull the little chip connector (spout) out of the end. now your car is ready for timing. dont lose the chip and put it back once done (it keeps the puter from advancing the timing while you time it).
all cars are different. some ping at 10* while others can take 16*. you want to go as far as you can without pinging. for many (me included), i advance til i get pinging at any time while driving. i then back it down a degree or two and try again. i do this till i never hear pinging.
to counteract pinging, one can run higher octane fuel. also, the hotter it is outside (and thus normally, the hotter teh motor runs), the more likely you are to have detonation. e.g., in the winter i run 14- 15*, but in summer, i run 12*. if i leave it at 14 or 15*, it will ping.
good luck. remember, there is not magic number. the only reason i use a light is so that i can tell someone that i run XXX* timing. you have to listen for detonation (see first sentence in my second paragraph) and go from there.
all cars are different. some ping at 10* while others can take 16*. you want to go as far as you can without pinging. for many (me included), i advance til i get pinging at any time while driving. i then back it down a degree or two and try again. i do this till i never hear pinging.
to counteract pinging, one can run higher octane fuel. also, the hotter it is outside (and thus normally, the hotter teh motor runs), the more likely you are to have detonation. e.g., in the winter i run 14- 15*, but in summer, i run 12*. if i leave it at 14 or 15*, it will ping.
good luck. remember, there is not magic number. the only reason i use a light is so that i can tell someone that i run XXX* timing. you have to listen for detonation (see first sentence in my second paragraph) and go from there.
the spout. find the wiring harness that goes to the distributor (there are a bunch of wires that go to a module on the side - the TFI module). put your hand on the wires at the connector on the distributor. now trace them backwards (toward the windshield). maybe 6-8 inches back, you will see that there are two wires that come out of the harness and go to a plastic plug. the plug may have tape on the end. remove tape (if applicable) and pull the little chip connector (spout) out of the end. now your car is ready for timing. dont lose the chip and put it back once done (it keeps the puter from advancing the timing while you time it).
all cars are different. some ping at 10* while others can take 16*. you want to go as far as you can without pinging. for many (me included), i advance til i get pinging at any time while driving. i then back it down a degree or two and try again. i do this till i never hear pinging.
to counteract pinging, one can run higher octane fuel. also, the hotter it is outside (and thus normally, the hotter teh motor runs), the more likely you are to have detonation. e.g., in the winter i run 14- 15*, but in summer, i run 12*. if i leave it at 14 or 15*, it will ping. there are a number of other reasons that one can experience detonation, but those are the big factors on a healthy motor (no carbon build up, EGR working correctly, etc).
good luck. remember, there is not magic number. the only reason i use a light is so that i can tell someone that i run XXX* timing. you have to listen for detonation (see first sentence in my second paragraph) and go from there.
all cars are different. some ping at 10* while others can take 16*. you want to go as far as you can without pinging. for many (me included), i advance til i get pinging at any time while driving. i then back it down a degree or two and try again. i do this till i never hear pinging.
to counteract pinging, one can run higher octane fuel. also, the hotter it is outside (and thus normally, the hotter teh motor runs), the more likely you are to have detonation. e.g., in the winter i run 14- 15*, but in summer, i run 12*. if i leave it at 14 or 15*, it will ping. there are a number of other reasons that one can experience detonation, but those are the big factors on a healthy motor (no carbon build up, EGR working correctly, etc).
good luck. remember, there is not magic number. the only reason i use a light is so that i can tell someone that i run XXX* timing. you have to listen for detonation (see first sentence in my second paragraph) and go from there.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
You know the big plug that goes into the distributor? Well, coming out of the same strand of wires should be a little two wire socket with a little square grey plug stuck in it. You want to pull that grey plug out before you check or set the timing. It allows the computer to advance the timing according to preset curves and based on input from some engine sensors. If you dont pull the jumper plug, the comp will advance the timing while you're checking it and you'll have a false reading.
EDIT: Damn, in the process of typing this, someone slipped in before me and said the same thing!
EDIT: Damn, in the process of typing this, someone slipped in before me and said the same thing!
chaka
Founding Member
At the damper and timing pointer on the block. You may have to add some chalk marker at TDC, 10 BTC, and 20 BTC so that you can see it clearly. You will see that the timing gun is really just a strobe light. It lights up everytime the #1 cylinder fires. You will be able to see where the pointer is at on the damper. Adjust it to say 10* BTC and you should be golden. (You adjust it by spinning the dist. until the timer lines up with the correct chalk mark.
Do you have a Haynes manual? It would be a good investment for you.
Do you have a Haynes manual? It would be a good investment for you.
K.C.90gt
Founding Member
Heres a pic for ya, aim the light here, I pointed it out for you. You may have to sand the dampner down some or mark the degree with some chalk to help see it. But for the 302's the crankshaft rotates clockwise so you want the pointer to the right of TDC and it should be label BTDC on stock dampner, which would mean you have to turn the distributor counterclockwise to advance it. Its not as hard as it sounds, but definitely get a repair manual if you dont already. Heres the pic:
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