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Questions for Alcino

  • Thread starter Thread starter IMACHU2
  • Start date Start date Apr 15, 2006
I

IMACHU2

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Apr 14, 2006
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Apr 15, 2006
#1
  • Apr 15, 2006
  • #1
Alcino congrats on your car in PHR.

I have a few questions though.

1.Is your front suspension stock, save for trimmed coils, elongated cross shaft holes in the upper arms and poly bushings???

2.When you ordered your rear springs did you provide the specs??
(if so can you post the specs??)

3.Was the flamming river rack a bolt in?? Did you use the stock steering jack-shaft and rag joint?

4.What brand is the "posi locker"?

5.II's came with many different sway bars, what size bars are you running?
 

alcino

Founding Member
Nov 2, 1999
195
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19
san diego, ca
Apr 17, 2006
#2
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #2
IMACHU2 said:
1.Is your front suspension stock, save for trimmed coils, elongated cross shaft holes in the upper arms and poly bushings???
Click to expand...
Yes.

IMACHU2 said:
2.When you ordered your rear springs did you provide the specs??
(if so can you post the specs??)
Click to expand...
I assume your asking about the flex-a-form. No, I just said I had a mustang ii and wanted something for all around racing. He sent me a 205lb set that I broke(freaking discount tire lifted the car on the leaf) and replaced with the 225lbs set. Be patient when dealing with the owner. Sometimes it take a few calls to get someone. I think its a small business run by an old man.

IMACHU2 said:
3.Was the flamming river rack a bolt in?? Did you use the stock steering jack-shaft and rag joint?
Click to expand...
Yes it bolted right in, but I had to use a different universal joint to connect to the steering shaft.

IMACHU2 said:
4.What brand is the "posi locker"?
Click to expand...
It's a PowerTrax lockright locker. But I would recomend getting their new extreme Traction system(wasn't available when I bought mine).

IMACHU2 said:
5.II's came with many different sway bars, what size bars are you running?
Click to expand...
For the Magazine shoot. I took off the rear and ran the 1" front. Didn't have time to run with the rear on to see the difference. Might have helped me get 1g since the car was pushing in the turn.

Hope this helps.
 
I

IMACHU2

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Apr 17, 2006
#3
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #3
That will help plenty! thanks for your reply!

How do the fiberglass leafs hook-up at the drags?? any better or different then steel leafs??
 

alcino

Founding Member
Nov 2, 1999
195
5
19
san diego, ca
Apr 17, 2006
#4
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #4
Seems to have less wheel hop. Could be from the springs being stiffer than stock.
 

Blue Thunder

15 Year Member
Mar 20, 2004
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68
Upstate New York.
Apr 17, 2006
#5
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #5
alcino said:
It's a PowerTrax lockright locker. But I would recomend getting their new extreme Traction system(wasn't available when I bought mine).


For the Magazine shoot. I took off the rear and ran the 1" front. Didn't have time to run with the rear on to see the difference. Might have helped me get 1g since the car was pushing in the turn.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

I run a detroit locker carrier in a 9" housing, and I'm considering ditching it for a clutch type locker, since the detroit unit is brutal when it tries to lock and unlock, it literally changes the attitude of the car during a turn. I can feel the car understeer and then oversteer, back and forth. (In the summer time, when the pavement is hot, that thing squeals around corners at slow speeds!)

About the rear bar, I don't run one either, I suppose that's why my car pushes also?? (Though it does handle fairly well, regardless of the troubles) I always attributed the pushing to all that nose weight, inherent in the II design.
 

CobraDuce

New Member
Dec 27, 2003
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RedNeck, Pa
Apr 22, 2006
#6
  • Apr 22, 2006
  • #6
First I must say congrats. A mustang ii in the reader rides section is big this is just huge. But was there anything special with instaling the springs? Do you know anything about the longevity of these springs? What kind of shocks are you running?
 
I

IMACHU2

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Apr 22, 2006
#7
  • Apr 22, 2006
  • #7
Cobra Deuce: Alcino's car has KYB gas adjusts in the front and KYB GR2's in the rear. It is really kool how well the car performs with it's inexpensive bolt-on's. The only big ticket items are the rear springs and the tires. It has renewed my interest in making the II handle. Previously I figured if it was going to take $10000 to make the little sucker handle, why not just buy an 87 Corvette, and settle for having the Mach in the stable as a cool old street/strip car. My car has all new & rebuilt suspension KYB GR2'S, Energy bushings. I was ready to dismiss a brake upgrade, thinking what would be the point, if skinny front tires were likely the limiting factor for the braking anyway. Alcino's car stoped from 60MPH 23.4' quicker then stock! (Alcino's car only has 205/50R15 tires up front!)
Not being one to re-invent the wheel, I am going to duplicate Alcino's combo short of the front shocks. (you can still get Koni sports for the front of a II).

Hey Alcino is your brake upgrade a bolt-on kit???
 

alcino

Founding Member
Nov 2, 1999
195
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19
san diego, ca
Apr 24, 2006
#8
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #8
IMACHU2 said:
Hey Alcino is your brake upgrade a bolt-on kit???
Click to expand...

The front kit was all bolt in from wilwood. Its great that hotrodders loved this front suspension. the rear, I pieced parts together and made a custom braket. But don't worry about the back brakes too much, the fronts do most of the work. If you want to see some pics of my brakes click heree

As good as my car seemed it still has it bugs to be worked out. the braking could have been better. the rear was locking up real bad and wheel hopping. Not good for slowing down. My proportioning valve was adjusted all the way. must have the wrong sized master cylinder.

CobraDuce said:
First I must say congrats. A mustang ii in the reader rides section is big this is just huge. But was there anything special with instaling the springs? Do you know anything about the longevity of these springs?
Click to expand...
Thanks! The leafs just bolted right in like stock, and they should last forever and will never sag like normal springs.

Keep the questions coming.
 

Blue Thunder

15 Year Member
Mar 20, 2004
1,003
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Upstate New York.
Apr 24, 2006
#9
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #9
I was planning on machining down my 5-lug rotors so that only the small hubs remain, then I could use slip-on style rotors from something with big brakes and similar 5-lug pattern, such as a Jeep Grand Cherokee or something. The caliper bracket will be the most time consuming part to fab, since it needs to be strong without being huge. I will need to do some designing and calculations first.
I know those Jeeps have huge rotors, maybe 12" or 13", but not sure exactly what size yet. And the calipers provide sufficient squeeze to stop the 5000 pound vehicle, I bet they'd work nicely in a II along with an F150 master cylinder.
 

alcino

Founding Member
Nov 2, 1999
195
5
19
san diego, ca
Apr 24, 2006
#10
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #10
Sounds like you are doing this on a budget. never thought of shaving the rotor down to a hub. Hope you have room for the wheels to move out the thickness of the new rotor.

What calipers are you going to use with this bracket? my wilwood bracket was only about 1/4 inch thick and made of aluminum. It bolted to where the dust shield attached.

Are you sure you don't want to get a kit? speedwaymotors.com sells at a decent price. Save you a lot of work.
 

78CobraII

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Jul 31, 1998
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Apr 24, 2006
#11
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #11
Blue Thunder said:
I was planning on machining down my 5-lug rotors so that only the small hubs remain, then I could use slip-on style rotors from something with big brakes and similar 5-lug pattern, such as a Jeep Grand Cherokee or something. The caliper bracket will be the most time consuming part to fab, since it needs to be strong without being huge. I will need to do some designing and calculations first.
I know those Jeeps have huge rotors, maybe 12" or 13", but not sure exactly what size yet. And the calipers provide sufficient squeeze to stop the 5000 pound vehicle, I bet they'd work nicely in a II along with an F150 master cylinder.
Click to expand...

I came across a guy on the Corner-Carver's Forum (http://corner-carvers.com/forums/index.php?) that did the exact same thing, only he used the 12" Cobra discs, calipers, and fabricated 3/8" thick brackets on a cut-down Granada disc hub and aftermarket MII 2" drop spindles (http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22199). Unfortunately his pics are long gone, but I made copies.

He ended up adding some reinforcing weld to the adapter plate, but it would have probably been better to use thicker plate and machine out reliefs as needed.
 

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78CobraII

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#12
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #12
More...
 

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78CobraII

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#13
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #13
Still more...
 

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78CobraII

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Apr 24, 2006
#14
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #14
This should be it...

I was thinking that this would be doable with a larger ('93 Cobra?) set of 4 lug Fox discs and SN95 calipers also.
 

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Blue Thunder

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Apr 24, 2006
#15
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #15
Damn, nice pics, thanks.
 

Blue Thunder

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Mar 20, 2004
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Upstate New York.
Apr 24, 2006
#16
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #16
alcino said:
Sounds like you are doing this on a budget. never thought of shaving the rotor down to a hub. Hope you have room for the wheels to move out the thickness of the new rotor.

What calipers are you going to use with this bracket? my wilwood bracket was only about 1/4 inch thick and made of aluminum. It bolted to where the dust shield attached.

Are you sure you don't want to get a kit? speedwaymotors.com sells at a decent price. Save you a lot of work.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I do have a hard time spending a lot of money on things that don't make it go faster. But brakes are sort of nice to have, so I will compromise. haha.
I'm actually running spacers right now, which are just about the same thickness as the new rotor, so I can just eliminate that spacer. 2 birds with 1 stone, so to speak.
Also, I really don't want to install something that has parts which may be difficult to get at some future time, and I don't want to order stuff. I want to be able to go right over to Napa and quickly and easily get new rotors, pads and hopefully even the calipers, all from a single vehicle that's very common, and therefore, also cheap. (such as that cherokee I mentioned) And parts availability is guaranteed in this manner, for a long, long time.
I did check out brake kits, but if I recall, they're a lot more money than my planned project should cost, and of course, I will be doing the fabricating myself, which I enjoy doing on my II, anyway. Much of the satisfaction I get from driving my car is the fact that I've made so many different pieces myself.

I don't have granada rotors on there, I have stock-type rotors, but with 5 lugs, so it gives me an extra 1/4" of space over the granada version, which is thicker. All the better to use as a hub to slide the rotors onto.
 
I

IMACHU2

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Apr 14, 2006
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Apr 30, 2006
#17
  • Apr 30, 2006
  • #17
Wilwood's II brake kits.

http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Information/applicationguide_frnt/ford/mustang7478.asp
 

hssss

New Member
May 11, 2006
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May 11, 2006
#18
  • May 11, 2006
  • #18

The PBR Cobra brakes are quite universal. Here they are bolted, with a .25 spacer Jeep TJ hubs (to keep 5 on 4.5) to a Jeep WJ knuckle which bolts to a Jeep XJ axle which bolts to a Jeep TJ chassis being used for a 41 Willys PU with blown SB & AWD. All this having nothing to do with this forum.

78CobraII
THANKYOUTHANKYOU for posting the pics of the Cobra PBR setup. It appears that the original poster must have offended someone on cc and he has now been banned. Has any one contacted or know how to contact the original poster?? I would very much like to get in touch with him. I'm building a 351/392 engined Lotus 7 and want to get all the brake I can on it.

Blue Thunder
DON'T use Jeep WJ (Grand Cherokee) rotors they have a bad problem with warping. Part of the reason for the pic is that I used '99 Crown Victoria rotors on the WJ knuckles and they fell on and are sized 12x1.1 which is what is needed for the PBRs. I could have used Cobra, 13x1.1, but I would have had to make adapters and on a 2200 lb truck I didnt think .5 reduction in radius would have made that much difference. Even with the 12" rotor 15" wheels won't work with the PBRs, I tried 15" Dodge police rallys and the rim hit the caliper. The pic below is with 96 Cobra 17x8s. I'm frugal/cheep and try to use as many production parts as possible particularly for wear or likely to break parts that way if I break down on the road I atleast stand a chance of being able to go to corner parts store and get the parts needed for a repair.
 
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