Quick Timing Question

[janac19]

Well, I was going to go out and cruise with some of my friends. For a long time my car has been running like ass, but I never have really done anything. With the vaccuum on the fuel regulator my fuel pressure is at 29-30psi, and my timing is at about 16* with 89 octane. You can smell gas coming out my exhaust and it shows signs that it is running rich.

I was wondering if there was anything I could do for a little extra bump horsepower. I know I am running rich but why should it be at that low of fuel pressure? Can I advance the timing more? I know a guy who has a stock bottom end and some stuff and he is running 40* of timing (with the spout out) and 60psi of fuel pressure, and it runs great... smooth idle etc. Are different heads able to handle or work better with higher timing? I don't know, I am just frustrated, and ready to advance the timing a ton, if I am running rich, couldn't I safley run more timing as long as I don't ping?

Thanks, Crunchie12268

(Im using my g/f user name)

 

[Mysterio]

If you're getting fuel out of the exhaust then your timing is TOO advanced I believe.

My car has minor modifications (Not much internally) And I only run at 12*

 

[HISSIN50]

I would not advance the timing, nor would I run locked out timing. Locked timing creates drivability and economy issues and is generally used by forced induction foxes that cant get their set-up to work in conjunction with stock timing tables (and the guys dont have a tune).
SN95 guys run locked timing because the GT's fuel and spark tables suck, and they like to get around the Tip-in retard.

Otherwise, I would not do it.

If you are truly running rich, that should be addressed, since excessive richness will cause lackluster performance. A WB or even a CO meter would help in that regard.

Good luck.

 

[janac19]

so what would you guys do? back it off, leave it or turn the pressure down even more?

 

[janac19]

ohh, and fuel isn't coming out of my exhuast, I can just smell it pretty heavy.... also, it hesitates like it is running rich.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

 

[Mysterio]

ohh, and fuel isn't coming out of my exhuast, I can just smell it pretty heavy.... also, it hesitates like it is running rich.

I could smell lots of unburnt fuel with my car too, checked the timing and it was way too advanced... Try backing the timing off some and see how it does. It's pretty easy to adjust the timing a bit and if that's the only problem might as well give it a try before you go into pulling codes and testing with a voltmeter and such. Takes 10 minutes and you can have the timing adjusted and be done with it.

 

[HISSIN50]

I could smell lots of unburnt fuel with my car too, checked the timing and it was way too advanced... Try backing the timing off some and see how it does. It's pretty easy to adjust the timing a bit and if that's the only problem might as well give it a try before you go into pulling codes and testing with a voltmeter and such. Takes 10 minutes and you can have the timing adjusted and be done with it.

If one sees a timing advance which seems highly unlikely (like SPOUT out timing of 20*+, etc), I would note what it was set at and then consider that the outer ring of the balancer has slipped.

Good luck.