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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

rear defrost

  • Thread starter Thread starter stang3O2
  • Start date Start date Sep 10, 2003
S

stang3O2

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Oct 15, 2002
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Indiana
Sep 10, 2003
#1
  • Sep 10, 2003
  • #1
Has anyone had problems with their rear defrost? I have a vert and when I push the button the light comes on but it doesnt do anything. What do you think i need to replace and what should it cost?
Thanks
Matt
 

94GTLaserRC

Squint as you approach, lest you be blinded by my
15 Year Member
May 7, 2002
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Ernan Says "here it comes... dushbag"
Sep 10, 2003
#2
  • Sep 10, 2003
  • #2
stang3O2 said:
Has anyone had problems with their rear defrost? I have a vert and when I push the button the light comes on but it doesnt do anything. What do you think i need to replace and what should it cost?
Thanks
Matt
Click to expand...

Have you had tinting on the windows at some point, then had it removed or replaced?

Also, do ANY of the rows work, or are they all NOT working?
RC
 
S

stang3O2

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Indiana
Sep 10, 2003
#3
  • Sep 10, 2003
  • #3
I do have tint but it has never been removed and replaced, and none of the rows are working
 

94GTLaserRC

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Ernan Says "here it comes... dushbag"
Sep 10, 2003
#4
  • Sep 10, 2003
  • #4
stang3O2 said:
I do have tint but it has never been removed and replaced, and none of the rows are working
Click to expand...

It could be the wiring right where the main wire on the back window branches out into the individual lines. Check that, other than that, maybe someone else can chime in here!
RC
 
M

Mike94GT

New Member
Jun 23, 2003
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New Jersey
Sep 12, 2003
#5
  • Sep 12, 2003
  • #5
There are 2 metal tabs on the back window that coiled wires plug onto. This lets the rear window move yet still have the electric defroster. Check these connections, that they aren't loose. Also check that these 2 tabs are still firmly in place on the glass. I knocked one off one time when cleaning the rear window (overzealously... lol). Next, check for voltage at the connectors. Then, check for continuity across the defrost element by placing a meter on both of those tabs (with the wires removed, but be very careful when taking them off) somewhere in what I've said you should find the problem.
 
R

rjfoy

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Dec 2, 2003
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Jul 23, 2004
#6
  • Jul 23, 2004
  • #6
Mike94GT said:
There are 2 metal tabs on the back window that coiled wires plug onto. This lets the rear window move yet still have the electric defroster. Check these connections, that they aren't loose. Also check that these 2 tabs are still firmly in place on the glass. I knocked one off one time when cleaning the rear window (overzealously... lol). Next, check for voltage at the connectors. Then, check for continuity across the defrost element by placing a meter on both of those tabs (with the wires removed, but be very careful when taking them off) somewhere in what I've said you should find the problem.
Click to expand...

Do you happen to know why there are two tabs? Does one side heat some of the rows, and the other side other rows? I ask because I've got continuity, and the left side tab is hot, but no juice on the right side. I can't find any break so I'm thinking I'll just splice from the hot right side to the left. Any problems with this?? Thanks.
 
Q

Quick5pnt0

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Aug 21, 1999
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north eastern PA
Jul 23, 2004
#7
  • Jul 23, 2004
  • #7
I believe there are two tabs to complete the circuit. Usually the tab breaks off the glass, its happened to me but it is fixable.
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
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58
Tucson, AZ
Jul 24, 2004
#8
  • Jul 24, 2004
  • #8
You have a rear defroster on your Convertible? Mine doesn't even have one.

The wires conduct electricity, and the two tabs complete the circuit, just like posted above.

You can use a volt meter and check for continuity between the wires to check for a break. Just start at the top and go down from there. A break anywhere in ANY of the lines will make the entire window not work (assuming the wires are in series, which I think they are).
Scott
 
R

rjfoy

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Dec 2, 2003
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Jul 24, 2004
#9
  • Jul 24, 2004
  • #9
OK thanks guys. Looks like it's just worn and the grid has too much resistance. I've got juice at the tabs and I've got power up the bars on both sides but nothing when I run across the window. (I tried it on my other car so I know how it should read.) Either the tinting did something - no obvious breaks though - or 167,000 was just too much. I'm going to buy one of those replacement kits.
 

94GTLaserRC

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15 Year Member
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Ernan Says "here it comes... dushbag"
Jul 24, 2004
#10
  • Jul 24, 2004
  • #10
When you remove old tint, it ruins the stripes. My window tinting dude has a kit that he can what it looks like soldering gaps in the lines. He was able to repair enough lines such that I could see enough out the back windows.
RC
 
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