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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Rear Seal, Or Oil Pan Leak??

  • Thread starter Thread starter 95Cobra302
  • Start date Start date Nov 26, 2017

95Cobra302

Founding Member
Apr 9, 2002
394
3
19
Daytona Beach, FL
Nov 26, 2017
#1
  • Nov 26, 2017
  • #1
What do you all think?? Rear seal or oil pan? I'm hoping rear seal but I doubt it!



 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
1,645
214
Acworth, GA
Nov 26, 2017
#2
  • Nov 26, 2017
  • #2
Looks like oil pan, I'm sorry. You are 3 minutes and $15 away from having a new rear main seal.

Kurt
 

95Cobra302

Founding Member
Apr 9, 2002
394
3
19
Daytona Beach, FL
Nov 27, 2017
#3
  • Nov 27, 2017
  • #3
revhead347 said:
Looks like oil pan, I'm sorry. You are 3 minutes and $15 away from having a new rear main seal.

Kurt
Click to expand...


Yeah, the rear seal will be changed with all the other parts I have coming. Last replaced it about 14 years ago. Guess all the oil covering everything on the bottom is from the oil pan then.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,945
224
Massachusetts
Nov 27, 2017
#4
  • Nov 27, 2017
  • #4
Now that I look at this pic on a PC, it looks like oil pan gasket to me
 

95Cobra302

Founding Member
Apr 9, 2002
394
3
19
Daytona Beach, FL
Nov 27, 2017
#5
  • Nov 27, 2017
  • #5
Mustang5L5 said:
Now that I look at this pic on a PC, it looks like oil pan gasket to me
Click to expand...


Yeah, no way is it going to get changed till the engine gets pulled. Do you know what oil, oil weight or additive would be best to somewhat control the leak in the meantime?? Been using Mobil-1 10W30 high mileage.
 

jozsefsz

15 Year Member
Aug 11, 2013
1,243
332
124
Cleveland OH Area
Nov 27, 2017
#6
  • Nov 27, 2017
  • #6
I'd throw a new rear seal in just because it's right there, clean it up really good, loosen the rear-most pan bolts, scrape out what gasket I could easily remove, and squirt some 'Right Stuff' gasket maker in there, and tighten. That's super-sketchy but it won't hurt anything, and might buy you some time until you have the engine out. I swear by 'Right Stuff' since it permanently fixed the yearly leak in my Cub Cadet mower's (vertical) valve cover gasket that no amount of regular RTV would fix.

Engine oil weight won't really help the leak and might cause other problems (if you're running something too thick when it's cold out). ATP AT-205 stop leak helped some dried out seals in my old Windstar and a rope-seal in an old 289. Might help if your pan gasket is just dried out. Gets pretty good reviews, but it's always hit-or-miss with sealer.

I sound like an informercial, but that's what I'd do short of pulling the engine.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
1,645
214
Acworth, GA
Nov 27, 2017
#7
  • Nov 27, 2017
  • #7
95Cobra302 said:
Yeah, no way is it going to get changed till the engine gets pulled. Do you know what oil, oil weight or additive would be best to somewhat control the leak in the meantime?? Been using Mobil-1 10W30 high mileage.
Click to expand...

I agree. You can't go nuts over every little oil leak. My front main seal leaks right now (and it's basically new), and I simply can't be bothered. Don't put any additives in it. Nothing is going to stop that leak, and if anything it will damage other stuff.

Kurt
 
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