rear suspension BS!!

Rrich · Jun 21, 2009

ok so yesterday my friend and i were putting on my suspension parts. we installed cobra a arms, struts and springs in the front. one side was a piece of cake, but the other side had a bolt get stuck. so we had to cut it out and go around town looking for hardware. anywho, many hours later we finished the front.

now we moved to the back. and started to take apart the rear to install mm lowers, steeda uppers, the shocks, and springs. first bolt we tried to get off from the pass side lower c/a was stuck like the front. wouldnt move. so we just said **** it. We already losend all 4 bolts to the lowers. when we went to tighten the front bolts on both lowers they just spun. so right now they are kinda loose.

my question is how in the world are you supposed to deal with the front bolts on removal and install? i have a mac exhaust and it the muffler is within a 1/4 inch of the frame where the hole on the inside is to deal with the bolt. there is no way i can get a socket in there. am i supposed to take off the exhaust? i really dont want to, it took FOREVER to get right.

sucks, right now my car is sitting at my friends house until at least this weekend when we will beable to work on it.

sorry this is so long, ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

WhiteCobra95 · Jun 21, 2009

The exhaust has to come out, or at least be disconnected in a couple spots so that it can moved out of the way. I would suggest raising the body, lower the axle as much as possibe, then disconnect the muffler hanger, tailpipe hanger, and the pipe connection to you H or X. you could probablye set the cat back down (kind of lay it across the axle, and get to the bolt out.

Also, do one control arm at a time so the axle can't move around too much. If it does move, it's a real pain to get the holes lined up again on jack stands. Usually I just loosen the bolts, but leave the other six in to keep the proper orientation.

Good luck!

Itkix · Jun 21, 2009

I had the same problem, but you can get a pry bar and push the muffler over a little thats what I did, I had several bolts I had to cut out that was a job just keep at it you'll get it done.

earleys94gt · Jun 21, 2009

Unhook the mufflers from the mid-pipe for clearance.

You'll also need to lower the axle as much as possible, as stated above.

WD-40 can also make the job easier.

SVT32VDOHC · Jun 22, 2009

Drop that exhaust out of the way to get those bolts out. LCA's can be a royal PITA if the car has miles on it or has been sitting a while, or has gone through winters. You get the point.

Chythar · Jun 22, 2009

WhiteCobra95 said:
The exhaust has to come out, or at least be disconnected in a couple spots so that it can moved out of the way. I would suggest raising the body, lower the axle as much as possibe, then disconnect the muffler hanger, tailpipe hanger, and the pipe connection to you H or X. you could probablye set the cat back down (kind of lay it across the axle, and get to the bolt out.

Also, do one control arm at a time so the axle can't move around too much. If it does move, it's a real pain to get the holes lined up again on jack stands. Usually I just loosen the bolts, but leave the other six in to keep the proper orientation.

Good luck!

+1

Those bolts are a major PITA to loosen if they've never been removed before, especially if they're covered in rust. You're not missing any steps, just gotta crank down on the bolts.

Bosko5.0 · Jun 23, 2009

DON"T DROP THE NUT IN THE FRAME ITS A PITA TO GET IT OUT!
Also A ratcheting strap works really well for pulling the rearend closer.

Good luck

revhead347 · Jun 23, 2009

Bosko5.0 said:
DON"T DROP THE NUT IN THE FRAME ITS A PITA TO GET IT OUT!
Also A ratcheting strap works really well for pulling the rearend closer.

Good luck

Well, for starts, you're bolts are in wrong. The bolt is suposed to go in from the muffler side, so that the nut can't drop into the frame.

If you loosen the ball and socket joints between the muffler and the H-pipe, you can usually move the muffler enough to get a socket and driver in there..

Kurt

revhead347 · Jun 23, 2009

WhiteCobra95 said:
Also, do one control arm at a time so the axle can't move around too much. If it does move, it's a real pain to get the holes lined up again on jack stands. Usually I just loosen the bolts, but leave the other six in to keep the proper orientation.

Good luck!

Learned a great trick for this one. I always do one control arm at a time, but sometimes the axle drops back a little, and you can't get the bolt back in. Adjust the height of the axles with a jack under the pumpkin. Then use a ratchet strap attached to the front K-member and the axle. That way you can adjust the position of the axle to align the whole.

Kurt

Rrich · Jun 25, 2009

thanks for the help guys...my friend who is helping me right now is sick. hopefully we can get it finished this weekend.

rear suspension BS!!

Rrich

New Member

WhiteCobra95

Itkix

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earleys94gt

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SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear

Bosko5.0

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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

Rrich

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