Rear valance woes

robbz28 · Sep 12, 2010

I know when it comes to body panels you can't beat OEM. Unfortunately my searching through the parts catalogs has yielded me no "ford tooling" or OEM 67 mustang GT rear valance, so I bought one of those 35 dollar aftermarkets and, well, I definately got what I paid for. All of the mounting tabs and holes lined up great, I was very pleased there, but when i got done I noticed that it was a good half an inch on each side too short. If something is too long, I can fix that, but too short?? Come on...Anyway, if any of you guys have a GT valance that you want to get rid of that fits, let me know, or if you know of any GOOD aftermarket valances, please point me in the right direction.

rusty428cj · Sep 12, 2010

That is why it is welded on my 68 Coupe. We cut the ends off and added material than welded it on. Also if you look close there are no holes for the chrome around the taillights. The taillights mount from the inside with no trim.

robbz28 · Sep 13, 2010

Very slick, I also noticed that you had shaved the reverse lights. I am amateur body man at best, I can do anything really A professional can do, but i might have to do it more than once and take 2 weeks to work one dent out. I like the way you molded in the fender extensions too. I was thinking about using my original non-GT valance and just cutting my own exhaust cut-outs. I think I can modify that more easily than cutting and welding and adding to my other valance...

chris66dad · Sep 13, 2010

Had the same problem on my 66.
I had a 3/8 of gap on each side and just figured it was something I had to live with.
I feel sorry for someone who is replacing the rear quarters, light panel and valance all at the same time with these parts. Nothing would line up like you think it should.

rusty428cj · Sep 13, 2010

chris66dad said:
Had the same problem on my 66.
I had a 3/8 of gap on each side and just figured it was something I had to live with.
I feel sorry for someone who is replacing the rear quarters, light panel and valance all at the same time with these parts. Nothing would line up like you think it should.

It is a lot easier if you are making a restomod than you can weld everything together.

rusty428cj · Sep 13, 2010

robbz28 said:
Very slick, I also noticed that you had shaved the reverse lights. I am amateur body man at best, I can do anything really A professional can do, but i might have to do it more than once and take 2 weeks to work one dent out. I like the way you molded in the fender extensions too. I was thinking about using my original non-GT valance and just cutting my own exhaust cut-outs. I think I can modify that more easily than cutting and welding and adding to my other valance...

I forgot about the reverse lights
If you weld the valance on all you have to do is fill in the gap with a strip of metal than add bondo. It is a lot easier than trying to bolt it on and make the gaps right.

robbz28 · Sep 13, 2010

rusty428cj said:
I forgot about the reverse lights
If you weld the valance on all you have to do is fill in the gap with a strip of metal than add bondo. It is a lot easier than trying to bolt it on and make the gaps right.

aint bondo just great.....in moderation

BuckeyeDemon · Sep 13, 2010

just add material to the ends, or maybe cut the end off, weld in a filler patch and dress it out.

spend a solid day on the panel, improve your bodywork skills, keep more money in your wallet and be done with it.

in the end you'll have something that probably fits better than what the factory did and you did it yourself.

this area wasn't the best from the factory anyways.

robbz28 · Sep 14, 2010

Adding material to the ends is PROBABLY what I will end up doing, but heres a thought, how about cutting it in half and adding material to the middle? That is only if i decide to NOT mold in the ends, just tighten up the gaps a bit.
I concur with the money saving, i have done everything mechanical to this car, and the floor pans, suspension, wiring, everything, i just really HATE body work, i bought all new metal from the doors forward, including doors, no rust to worry about or dents to beat out...

BuckeyeDemon · Sep 14, 2010

how does the valance contour match to the quarter? if it matches up nicely then maybe that's an option.

i would hate too see you add material near the middle too tighten the gaps only to be left with gaps that aren't consistent.

rusty428cj · Sep 14, 2010

robbz28 said:
Adding material to the ends is PROBABLY what I will end up doing, but heres a thought, how about cutting it in half and adding material to the middle? That is only if i decide to NOT mold in the ends, just tighten up the gaps a bit.
I concur with the money saving, i have done everything mechanical to this car, and the floor pans, suspension, wiring, everything, i just really HATE body work, i bought all new metal from the doors forward, including doors, no rust to worry about or dents to beat out...

You will have a problem with bolting on your license plate.

robbz28 · Sep 15, 2010

Yeah, I thought about the license plate issue, but it won't be much material and the license plates are slotted. As far as my contours go, they look to be spot on, but after thinking about it last night, and looking at Rusty's pics, I have just about decided to just add to the ends and mold it in. Which brings me to my next thought, (not sure of the term) but basically taking the front bumper and cutting it and making it fit really snug up against the car, especially on the sides where it wraps around. I have seen it done a lot on like 67-68 camaros, looks really slick.

rusty428cj · Sep 15, 2010

I did that to my rear fiberglass bumper. I'm not going to have a front bumper.

Red5oh · Sep 17, 2010

My first one was about 1.5 inches too long... then I got hit in the rear and the second was about 1/2 inch too short... I guess that is just bad, and you have to deal with it. The short is very easy to add metal on the ends with the welder, but the long one... you could see the cuts from the back. Mine is a restomod, so its not that big of a deal.

Good luck

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