Just incase you dont know, you need to get a new differential to fit 31 spline applications. I heard good things about auburn, and moser. Also heard good things about strange axles
Ford is fine, I prefer Moser or Strange. FRPP 31 spline diff. or Eaton 31 spline unit. If you broke an axle, I would also get a bearing kit for carrier and axles. Do you already have gears?
Can axel tubes be welded up while the rear housing/tubes are still in the car? Or does it have to be done on a jig out of the car? I know they have to be tigged and I have hear a story hear and there of the tubes warping from the welding heat.
If the rear tubes are to be tigged in the car...does a rod or something need to be stuffed through the axel housing to keep it from warping? Or can can I just leave in the stock axels and diff while welding and intall the new axels and diff after...would that be good enough to hold everything in place?
Rocketman,
Were your tubes welded in or out of the car? How did you keep the axels from warping while welding?
I fear that if I get my tubes tigged while still in the car the tubes may shift out of straight, I also don't want to have to take apart my whole rear suspension to remove the rear housing/tubes. I have a panhard bar and it was some what of a pain to put in, trying to avoid going thru that again. Not to mention screwing with the brake lines. thanks for the reply.
the tubes don't have to be welded all the way around. several one inch welds will do it. They will probably be fine if not welded but I recommend it. If you are serious and run slicks or even ET streets, you should install C clip eliminators as well. disc brakes are not designed to hold in axles. Then driveshaft loop.
I did all the welding on my axle tubes. Was done in the car. I did take the cover off and empty the carrier housing. Didn't want the lube to catch fire. I welded several small tacks around the the tubes and then went back and did a final passs. I let the housing cool off before I did the next weld switching from DS to PS.
Rocketman,
Thanks. Thats exactly the response I wanted to here.
So I will leave the the stock axels in place along with the differential guts, but drain the fluid. Tig-weld each side a small section at a time to avoid excessive heat build up. Then when fully welded I will put in my new axels and diff. Sounds good.