Reinstalling intake manifold

65springtime · Feb 15, 2011

I am having my intake manifold off of my 65 C-Code 289 blasted and then painted but would like to know the proper way to install back on the engine so will not have any leaks. I have heard you do not want to install the rubber ends but use RTV instead? Do you put this around all the openings? Would really like to get some nice information on installing the gaskets (and which is the best gaskets) for the intake and valve covers. Step by step. Thanks! John

j69302 · Feb 15, 2011

Ive always used fel pro intake gaskets and their cork ends have tape on one side that keeps them from sliding out. I have always used them never any leaks.

They always seem a little wide so I trim each end to fit with a pair of scissors. Then put a peanut size ball of gasket sealer on the ends of the cork where they meat the intake gasket.

Never had any leaks this way.

Also the key is setting the manifold straight down, donw set it down the puch it to line up the holes ask can move the gaskets which dont have the sticky side.

hipo_p51 · Feb 15, 2011

whatever you decide on the gasket, setting the intake down straight is important. have a helper when you do this. i have used long studs (one in each corner) to help insure its going down straight. take your time. speed kills.

65springtime · Feb 15, 2011

hipo_p51 said:
whatever you decide on the gasket, setting the intake down straight is important. have a helper when you do this. i have used long studs (one in each corner) to help insure its going down straight. take your time. speed kills.[/QUOTE

Long studs? What kind of long studs?

rbohm · Feb 15, 2011

65springtime said:
Long studs? What kind of long studs?

any will do as long as they are long enough for you to remove them when it comes time to bolt the intake down for real.

as for the end gaskets, and using sealer, i dont use the end gaskets, and i only put a THIN coat of RTV around the coolant ports on both sides of the gasket. i replace the end gaskets with a bead of RTV about 1/4" thick.

as for a torque sequence, i have found that torquing the end bolts first, in a criss cross pattern, then going with the ford factory pattern quite effective at preventing leaks. also if you are using the stock cast iron intake, ford allows you to use as much as 30ft/lbs for the manifold bolt torque, which i do.

you also want to retorque the intake after you have a couple of heat cycles on the motor after intake installation. remember to torque the intake when the engine is cold.

j69302 · Feb 15, 2011

Also torque it in steps.

Example, first round do 10, then 20, then 30. Then to the final setting several times until you dont get any more turn on the bolts.

There seams to be quite a bit of gasket compression so as soon as you tighten one the bolt next to it has less load on it. So make several passes until all the bolts click right away.

2+2GT · Feb 16, 2011

Around 1969 Ford started using 4 studs on the intake to aid installation at the factory. Good idea. Get 4 long bolts, 4" or more, cut the heads off, and cut screwdriver slots in the ends. Screw these into the heads. Now install the intake, using the long bolts as a guide. Can't miss. Then use a screwdriver to remove the bolts, and install the "correct" bolts.

This works really well for bellhousings, too.

Pony66 · Feb 16, 2011

2+2GT said:
Around 1969 Ford started using 4 studs on the intake to aid installation at the factory. Good idea. Get 4 long bolts, 4" or more, cut the heads off, and cut screwdriver slots in the ends. Screw these into the heads. Now install the intake, using the long bolts as a guide. Can't miss. Then use a screwdriver to remove the bolts, and install the "correct" bolts.
QUOTE]

Perhaps you could just use the 4 ford intake studs like on a 302. They are about the same price as a bolt.

I used Fel-Pro and followed the manual step by step. I used high tack gasket sealer on the cork. A little permatex around the water ports and where the cork meets the other gaskets, as the manual states. I lowered the manifold carefully and started the bolts. I let it sit for a couple hours to get real sticky. Then I followed the torque sequence. Just as stated above 10, 20 , 30 several times.

It is dry as a bone. I will rip it all out if I can get a Cobra style aluminum intake. Then we start over

65springtime · Feb 16, 2011

Thanks, a lot of good information here. Appreciate it. I like the idea of the long studs in four holes. John

rbohm · Feb 16, 2011

by the way, the best place to put those long studs is not at the ends, or in the very center, but in the holes one step out from the center. that will give you the best gasket retention when installing the intake.

2+2GT · Feb 16, 2011

Pony66 said:
2+2GT said:

I will rip it all out if I can get a Cobra style aluminum intake. Then we start over

Click to expand...

"if"? All you need is money.

68RCodeConv · Feb 17, 2011

Don't use the cork end seals or silicone. Instead buy a product called "The Right Stuff". Put down a bead, drop intake into place. This stuff is about as foolproof as anything.

Reinstalling intake manifold

65springtime

Member

j69302

Active Member

hipo_p51

Member

65springtime

Member

rbohm

j69302

Active Member

2+2GT

Pony66

New Member

65springtime

Member

rbohm

2+2GT

68RCodeConv

New Member

Similar threads

Reinstalling intake manifold

Member

Active Member

Member

Member

Active Member

New Member

Member

New Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency