Removing EGR

Black 93 Fox · May 1, 2005

I removed all my EGR stuff and the vaccum lines for it and also my cruise control stuff. My question is can I make a plate to go over the T/B spacer where the EGR went to cover the hole up. Also Im sure the check engine light is gona come on is there a way to by-pass it so it works for everything else but the EGR?

Thanks, Black 93 Fox

vristang · May 1, 2005

First. Why are you removing the EGR? What is the car used for? Reomoving functional EGR will hurt fuel economy, and will not improve power.

You can make a block off plate. Flat stock steel and some gasket/sealant. Your check engine light will come on. You can build a plug or buy one, the directions for both are posted in other threads here. ebay will have the plug for purchase.

STARBREAKER · May 1, 2005

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7971699025&category=33553

Black 93 Fox · May 1, 2005

vristang said:
First. Why are you removing the EGR? What is the car used for? Reomoving functional EGR will hurt fuel economy, and will not improve power.

You can make a block off plate. Flat stock steel and some gasket/sealant. Your check engine light will come on. You can build a plug or buy one, the directions for both are posted in other threads here. ebay will have the plug for purchase.

I removed it becasue I didnt want the extra wires if i didnt need them. I hide all my engine wires and wanted it to look extra clean. I dont care abour fuel economy because the car is not a daily driver it is just for show and some track time. I think I will get one of thoes simulators if they arent too expensive. Thanks for the info on the part

vristang · May 1, 2005

The simulators work great, I have had one for about a year.

If clean is your thing more power to you.
Personally, I am about to put forth a lot of effort to hook my EGR back up.

cheddarbacon · May 2, 2005

yup

I would diffenly put it back in.......but its your car

Fishhawk · May 2, 2005

Don't know if this will help, but I blocked off the EGR hole in a Edelbrock Performer Carb intake with some wire mesh and cardboard gasket material from AutoZone. It is regular gasket material with mesh in between two layers of cardboard. I just cut and formed it to match the intake without the hole. Worked great.

BaXTeR3221 · May 2, 2005

Be careful when removing the EGR, as you can have detonation issues unless you tell the computer it isn't there anymore.

slowhatch82 · May 2, 2005

My EGR valve is still bolted to the plate, but the vacuum is not hooked up and it runs and idles just fine....this is on a SD system, not sure how it would affect MAF.

90mustangGT · May 2, 2005

BaXTeR3221 said:
Be careful when removing the EGR, as you can have detonation issues unless you tell the computer it isn't there anymore.

The computer changes the fuel output when the EGR is open, and it will cause drivability issues. Either a simulator, programmed computer, or a carb conversion will solve the problem. The EGR system is not suposed to be open durring engine load or idle.

Blown stocker · May 2, 2005

90mustangGT said:
The computer changes the fuel output when the EGR is open, and it will cause drivability issues. Either a simulator, programmed computer, or a carb conversion will solve the problem. The EGR system is not suposed to be open durring engine load or idle.

I REMOVED MY EGR VALVE AND THE CAR RUNS THE SAME . ALTOUGH I AM TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHY MY DYNO GRAPH HAS A 500RPM SLIGHT LEAN SPOT AT ABOUT 3500 TO 4000 THEN GOES RICH AGAIN WONDER IF THAT COULD BE IT ?

ALMOST STOCK · May 2, 2005

90mustangGT
Either a simulator, programmed computer, or a carb conversion will solve the problem. The EGR system is not suposed to be open durring engine load or idle.

I wasn't sure that, that is exactly how things worked, but I'm glad you clarified that for me.
Thanks

90mustangGT · May 2, 2005

Blown stocker said:
...ALTOUGH I AM TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHY MY DYNO GRAPH HAS A 500RPM SLIGHT LEAN SPOT AT ABOUT 3500 TO 4000 THEN GOES RICH AGAIN WONDER IF THAT COULD BE IT ?

It could be it, but it shouldn't be opening under engine load, but that doesn't mean that it isn't opening or at least thinking it is open.

Black 93 Fox · May 2, 2005

90mustangGT said:
The computer changes the fuel output when the EGR is open, and it will cause drivability issues. Either a simulator, programmed computer, or a carb conversion will solve the problem. The EGR system is not suposed to be open durring engine load or idle.

So if I bought this part off of ebay which is a simulator it would fix the problem of not having the EGR hooked up. They way things look so far on this thread I might put it back on. The new engine is a 306 with Trick flow track heat heads,cam,intake if that makes a difference.

vristang · May 3, 2005

Black 93 Fox said:
So if I bought this part off of ebay which is a simulator it would fix the problem of not having the EGR hooked up. They way things look so far on this thread I might put it back on. The new engine is a 306 with Trick flow track heat heads,cam,intake if that makes a difference.

The only thing the simulator will do is turn off your check engine light. You may still have some very slight tuning issues. If there are problems they have not been severe enough for me to notice in my application.
As I said before, I would leave the EGR on the vehicle. It is rare when you can have the best of all three worlds, power, emissions, and economy. The only downside to the EGR (for some people) is how it looks in the engine bay.

04sleeper · May 3, 2005

Black 93 Fox said:
So if I bought this part off of ebay which is a simulator it would fix the problem of not having the EGR hooked up. They way things look so far on this thread I might put it back on. The new engine is a 306 with Trick flow track heat heads,cam,intake if that makes a difference.

Read this.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=61

Black 93 Fox · May 3, 2005

89sleeper said:
Read this.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=61

So with that part the engine should run smooth? Have you tried this part or anyone else on the board tried it? This part looks better then the one on ebay since it says it will make it run smoother.

vristang · May 3, 2005

Black 93 Fox said:
So with that part the engine should run smooth? Have you tried this part or anyone else on the board tried it? This part looks better then the one on ebay since it says it will make it run smoother.

I believe both simply consist of a resistor. They do the same thing.

Am I wrong?

2000xp8 · May 3, 2005

I used the simulator listed above (by starmaker) and a upr block off plate for 10 bucks. Why rig something up when the block off plate is so cheap.

No problems, and it does not effect fuel economy.

It's done at my local shop very often.

seijirou · May 3, 2005

If you're going to remove your EGR then do it the right way. And remove the flow of exhaust through your intake completely. We have internal EGR systems, which means the exhaust comes in through the intake, up to the EGR spacer, through the valve (when open) into the intake tract. If you just unplug the EGR valve, or unbolt it and block off the holes, you're doing nothing about the superheating of your intake plenum! The exhaust gases enter the lower intake from only one of the heads, I think it's the passenger side. The entry is right in between the intake ports of cylinders 2 and 3. If you block off this passage to the lower intake, then you can actually see power gains (no more than a few horse really) due to the overall cooler intake plenums.

What I don't understand about this EGR removal and engine running problems. The Computer is using an EGR valve position sensor. If you disconect vaccum to your EGR, that sensor is never going to tell the computer the EGR is opening. Is this fact just ignored by the computer, and less fuel is injected anyway? Not that I don't believe such an idiotic system is below Ford, but this simply makes no sense.

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