Removing Upper Intake

Mavrick

Founding Member

Aug 29, 2002

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Collingwood, ON

May 27, 2004

#1

• May 27, 2004

• #1

Going to remove my upper intake to figure out what im doing with my water temp gauge, and maybe remove my valve covers and polish them.

When i remove my intake, do i need to use RTV on the gasket when i reinstall? or just throw it on a dry gasket? Torque it to specs? 22ft lbs is it?

And the valve covers, dry gasket? RTV?

Thanks guys.

 

N

nitro66669

New Member

Jul 18, 2003

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florida

May 27, 2004

#2

• May 27, 2004

• #2

dry gasket on the upper intake, line of rtv on the bottom side of the valve cover gasket, 22 lbs is about right for the upper and you should be good to go.

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

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Assonet, MA

May 27, 2004

#3

• May 27, 2004

• #3

I just pulled my intake today to paint it. I used the same gasket that was there as it's only like 3 months old, looked perfect, and I was lazy. Just slap a dry gasket on there, and bolt it down. I didn't use my torque wrench either, I just snugged the bolts up good and fired her up, no problems. As far as the valve cover gaskets go, I don't know about those but I assume it's dry gasket. I'll be pulling mine soon for a paint treatment, so let me know how you make out.

 

Ozz

I think I have a problem here.

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Jul 27, 2001

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Canton, MI

May 27, 2004

#4

• May 27, 2004

• #4

I've never put RTV on my valve covers nor heard of anyone else doing it, but I dno't see how it could hurt. I'd recommend the rubber gaskets for them, though.

Dry intake gasket, dry TB/EGR and EGR/intake gasket.

Don't overtighten the valve cover bolts, either. Keep them snug and firm.

 

P

PRO50SC

New Member

Dec 28, 2003

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Olney, Maryland

May 27, 2004

#5

• May 27, 2004

• #5

mansonozz said:

I've never put RTV on my valve covers nor heard of anyone else doing it, but I dno't see how it could hurt. I'd recommend the rubber gaskets for them, though.

Dry intake gasket, dry TB/EGR and EGR/intake gasket.

Don't overtighten the valve cover bolts, either. Keep them snug and firm.

Click to expand...

Agree. Use the factory ford v/c gaskets that have the metal in between the rubber. Their expensive but well worth the money.

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

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Assonet, MA

May 27, 2004

#6

• May 27, 2004

• #6

mine look like cork and are from Fel-Pro, they came with the full 302 kit. Listen to him about the VC bolts, I put a small crack in one of my covers by overtightening it. Luckily it doesn't leak, but still...

 

Mavrick

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Aug 29, 2002

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Collingwood, ON

May 27, 2004

#7

• May 27, 2004

• #7

Previous owner put RTV on everything! EGR spacer/TB, valve covers, everything. And in excessive amounts too.

Thanks for the replies guys.

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

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Assonet, MA

May 27, 2004

#8

• May 27, 2004

• #8

Talk about being over cautious. Scrape it all off good, just to make sure you get a good seal. Hey guys, how much do the good VC gaskets go for from Ford? My friend said I could probably just get away with re-using my current gaskets because they're not old, but that scares the crap out of me. Intake gaskets are one thing, valve cover gaskets near heat and oil are another.

 

B

battyice

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Mar 7, 2004

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West Chazy, NY

May 27, 2004

#9

• May 27, 2004

• #9

I would highly recommend the blue Fel Pro valve cover gaskets, they're called "Perma Dry Plus". They're bright blue in color, with metal inserts around the bolt holes; plus they're reuseable. I put them on my '89 with absolutely no sealant, torqued them to the recommended spec, and after one year they don't even have an oil film around the bottom

Advance auto lists them for $30

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

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Assonet, MA

May 28, 2004

#10

• May 28, 2004

• #10

Hmmm. You think AutoZone has them?

 

B

battyice

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Mar 7, 2004

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West Chazy, NY

May 28, 2004

#11

• May 28, 2004

• #11

Yes they do, Part No.: VS13264T

 

astronut1885

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Assonet, MA

May 28, 2004

#12

• May 28, 2004

• #12

sweet. thanks man.

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

9,039

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79

Charlotte, NC

May 28, 2004

#13

• May 28, 2004

• #13

22 is WAY too high for the upper - you've got a good shot at breaking your lower if you do that. Mine is set at 10 ft-lbs. There's no reason to go any higher than that and good reason not to. If you know how old the gasket is, let that be your guide on whether to reuse it or not. NO RTV is necessary - the upper to lower seal is a very simple one; I've reused the my paper gasket many times with nothing more than a new coat of gasket dressing - Permatex Hylomar (not RTV). I wouldn't torque it that high.....

 

QDRHRSE

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Dec 31, 2002

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Palmdale, CA

May 28, 2004

#14

• May 28, 2004

• #14

I'm with Mike. 22lbs is good for the lower but too much for the upper intake. However, I will admit that I use 2 dots of anything sticky (rtv,weatherstrip adhesive....whatever) to hold the the upper to lower gasket in place. It always seems slide around when you intially put the upper on. It makes life easier if you are working alone.

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

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Assonet, MA

May 28, 2004

#15

• May 28, 2004

• #15

I hear you on that, mine was like a wet fish yesterday, all over the damned place.

 

Mavrick

Founding Member

Aug 29, 2002

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Collingwood, ON

May 28, 2004

#16

• May 28, 2004

• #16

Michael Yount said:

22 is WAY too high for the upper - you've got a good shot at breaking your lower if you do that. Mine is set at 10 ft-lbs. There's no reason to go any higher than that and good reason not to. If you know how old the gasket is, let that be your guide on whether to reuse it or not. NO RTV is necessary - the upper to lower seal is a very simple one; I've reused the my paper gasket many times with nothing more than a new coat of gasket dressing - Permatex Hylomar (not RTV). I wouldn't torque it that high.....

Click to expand...

Thanks Yount. I don't have a torque wrench myself, for 10 ft lbs, you figure it would be OK if i "snugged" the upper on?

 

8

85GTlover

New Member

Mar 20, 2004

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May 28, 2004

#17

• May 28, 2004

• #17

The stock specs are upper to lower 87=15-22 and 88+= 12-18
lower intake to cyl head bolts 23 to 25.
Rocker cover to to heads 10-13.

Why not spend $20 and buy a torque wrench if you are doing your work, you are saving labor cost and it is so much easier to work with good and the proper tools......I know spend the saved money on the car, I think that too but like I said. Remember to tighten them in the proper sequence too, or you may have trouble.

A manual helps alot too. Just a suggestions.

 

astronut1885

Founding Member

Jan 31, 2002

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Assonet, MA

May 28, 2004

#18

• May 28, 2004

• #18

I just snugged them. Make sure you snug in stages, though. Don't go nuts on one and not tighten the rest at the same time.

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

9,039

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79

Charlotte, NC

May 28, 2004

#19

• May 28, 2004

• #19

I'd buy/borrow a torque wrench. Our internal 'snug meters' are all over the place. It's right up there with judging HP gains by the seat of the pants.

Trick for gasket alignment - go to the hardware store and buy two bolts that match the short upper/lower bolts. Hacksaw the heads off and slot one end. Screw them into the front and rear holes so they act like a dowel. Set your gasket over them - it won't budge now. They also make it real easy to align the upper and drop it right down into place. Get two of the long bolts started, then unscrew your temporary 'dowels' and replace them with the bolt. Same trick works very well on valve covers, lower intake and headers - especially when you're working alone.

 

astronut1885

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Jan 31, 2002

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Assonet, MA

May 28, 2004

#20

• May 28, 2004

• #20

I have a torque wrench, but it fell in with reusing the intake gaskets, I was being lazy. I stop when you hear that metallic squeak. That's when I consider it snug. If I had to guess, I'd say I was around 15 ft/lb.