Replacing front subframe?

91TwighlightGT said:

It is possible, but I would imagine it to be both time consuming and expensive. Most people would just buy a clean roller and transfer everything rather than weld on a new front clip.

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no doubt the reason for little responce to the post. sorry but my 1st thoughts where uhmm why. this will not be a cut and weld in place and go. it is going to be out of line an need some pulling to get it straight again.

I have witnessed these types of projects go really wrong.you are talking about taking out and trying to replace a huge critical part of a uni-body car, if it is out of line it will effect how the nose fits and front suspension geometry for starters. pretty much like a car that took a bad front end hit and had a bad job/frame pull done and it is never teh same, eats tires and has misaligned panels. either have really good skills or have the cash to take it a really good shop. I like 91TwighlightGTs idea better.

I got a fully restored 89 shell for my project for $200, and I'm in the middle of ND. A shell is cheaper and easier.

--
Dan in ND
'89 'vert GT undergoing full resto.

Yeah, I gotta go w/ the common consensus. It'd be different if you were talking about something super rare (And a fox ain't one). Best to locate yourself another roller or smokin' 4 cyl car and swap stuff over.

Probably can be done. Its done to resto 65s and such all the time. Foxes just have not needed that yet on a large scale.

Same techniques as any other cut and replace sheetmetal project. Get it level, weld braces on the parts that stay, cut, fit the new, align and weld. I would think if you used the k member as a brace, and did one side at a time, it would not be too hard to keep it all lined up.

I don't know how feasible this is for you, but a friend of mine had a 79 mustang that the front subframe was in bad shape. He had a friend who'd been doing body work forever, so they looked into fixing it. The frame dead was straight I guess (they put it up on a frame machine to check) and they went underneath, ground all the rust away, and he welded in support pieces to reinforce the frame rails like your car has and patched everything that needed it. Then undercoated everything they did so nothing would rust. They put subframe connectors on after that to stiffen up the car to handle better and they said they never had any kid of issues.

I'd say if you know a good body man, he'd be able to fix it way easier than replacing the whole subframe. Also he'd be able to tell ya if the frame needed pulled or what other kind of work it requires.

Best of luck

If you are having trouble finding a roller, look for a running and driving 4cyl car.

pissedoff92 said:

Now if I buy a 4 cyl. all ive have to do theoretically is change over the drivetrain including the rear end and thats it right. no firewall mods necessary?

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Ideal you want the same year 4cyl. there are harness differences. early '92 still had the fuel relay under the seat and late '92 was when ford made the change so there is no fuel relay on teh 89-91 harness. The 91-93 cars only have 1 large plug next to the code test plugs, therefore they need the correct MAF computer harness from 91-93 cars. also from info I have found the '91 has a harness of it's own. Fuel lines run up driver side on a 4cyl, on an 8cyl they run up the passengers side. rear flex hose off the 7.5" rearend mounts on the passengers side, while the 8.8" rearends mounts on the drivers side.4cyl cars have different front calipers, spindles, brake hoses, brake hose brakets, and a different master cylinder. 4cyl steering will work but the V8 one is better. do a search on here on 4cyl swaps because other harness things have come up and there may be a few more things I'm missing. I'm going of the top of my head and haven't touched on the subject in along time. there is some good info in here though.

pissedoff92 said:

wow thats alot of bs with the harnesses alone. I think Ill wait it out for v8 roller to come around.

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All you really need is the engine harness year to match the year of the car. It's not that big of a deal. If you had to swap all this wiring around, nobody would do it.

Do some searches here, there are many 4cyl swaps.
BTW, 4cyl cars are usually in the best shape since they didn't make enough power to damage anything.

2000xp8 said:

All you really need is the engine harness year to match the year of the car. It's not that big of a deal. If you had to swap all this wiring around, nobody would do it.

Do some searches here, there are many 4cyl swaps.
BTW, 4cyl cars are usually in the best shape since they didn't make enough power to damage anything.

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+1 it isn't hard and the V8 harness of a different year depending on the year will have the same issue. I posted the harness info to make it easier. once you have the correct harness it is pretty much cake. Like 2000xp8 most 4cyl stangs didn't lead a rough life and I have seen alot of mint ones over the years. don't get gun shy trust me much easier to do a 4cyl swap than fix really bad rusted frame, note really bad rust. plenty of info on the swap and people will help with posting info. just do the home work before hand is my advice.