Is it possible to replace it with the engine still in the car? Mine is leaking form where I had to drill the holes for my oil drain for my twin setup and everything I try doesnt work. Has anyone done this before or know if its possible?
Replacing oil pan
- Thread starter 1105
- Start date
89 blue lx
Founding Member
i dont think so because of that damn cross member i have to change the gasket and i am not loooking forward to it
Yes, you can swap it with the motor still in the car. But it will require dropping the K-member. Even if you unbolt the motor mounts and lift it up, the tranny won't allow it to raise high enough to allow the pan to clear the rotating assembly.
Personally, if the only reason you're going to pull it is to fix some leaks, I wouldn't bother. I'd just get under there and fix it with the proper fittings, or if that isn't the case, some sealant of some sort (RTV, JB weld, whatever). If that doesn't work, pull the pan.
Personally, if the only reason you're going to pull it is to fix some leaks, I wouldn't bother. I'd just get under there and fix it with the proper fittings, or if that isn't the case, some sealant of some sort (RTV, JB weld, whatever). If that doesn't work, pull the pan.
89 blue lx
Founding Member
My buddy had his oil pan replaced on his 95 GT by a FORD mechanic, and he just lifted the motor up as high as it would go, and he swapped the pan and gasket. He had an auto trans. He had the car back in 1 day. It doesn't leak or anything.
89 blue lx
Founding Member
can anyone post up or pm with a prcedure that has everything to replace the gasket so i can do it next weekend
Car Nut
Founding Member
I'm getting my oil pan gasket replaced at a shop as we speak. They are lifting the engine to remove/replace the old gasket, as well as replace the motor mounts (since the engine is lifted, might as well get stuff done to save $$$). My rear main seal is being replaced as well, but I do believe they are removing the tranny for that (good time to check the clutch situation, I guess).
Thanks for the help.
Dan, I've tried fixing the holes by plugging them up but nothing seems to work
Dan, I've tried fixing the holes by plugging them up but nothing seems to work
sorry to keep bringing this thread back up to the top..
I'm using rubber plugs and RTV. I cant thread anything into the pan so thoes kind of fittings wont work
I'm using rubber plugs and RTV. I cant thread anything into the pan so thoes kind of fittings wont work
1105 said:
I'm ASSuming that you're saying they won't work because you can't back the threads up from the inside without pulling the pan. But here's what I'd do first:
Drill the oil pan with a bit just a hair under "X" as measured on the fittings you're using. I'd probably go 1/16" smaller.
Then thread it in with high temp RTV to complete the seal. Let it sit over night to cure and then run a ton of oil through the motor and let it drain to pull out the metal from drilling. Of course, don't forget to drain the oil before drilling. You may also want to consider using a magnet to help pull the filings over to the drain.
I know we're getting a bit off the path of how to drop the pan, but speaking from personal experience, dropping the pan tends to be a can of worms as far as leaks go. I avoid it if at all possible.
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