Restoring a 92 LX Hatchback

Not new to Mustangs, just new to restoring a 92.For the last 50+ years I restored and sold 65-68 Fastbacks. They are hard to find at a decent price now to restore. I bought this 5.0 hatchback 5 speed in 2003 for the engine and drive train. I was planning on building a Factory Five Cobra, but went in another direction for a performance and track car. Race SCCA autocross and run at VIR on occasion with a Miata that I just sold. Decided to pull the 92 out of the weeds and to do a restoration to make it a driver and an occasional auto cross car, not expecting quick times without investing a lot of money, which I am not going to do. Always liked the body of the Fox. I do engine, body, paint everything so I won't be farming any work out. I enjoy reading the posts on the site.
 
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Not new to Mustangs, just new to restoring a 92.For the last 50+ years I restored and sold 65-68 Fastbacks. They are hard to find at a decent price now to restore. I bought this 5.0 hatchback 5 speed in 2003 for the engine and drive train. I was planning on building a Factory Five Cobra, but went in another direction for a performance and track car. Race SCCA autocross and run at VIR on occasion with a Miata that I just sold. Decided to pull the 92 out of the weeds and to do a restoration to make it a driver and an occasional auto cross car, not expecting quick times without investing a lot of money, which I am not going to do. Always liked the body of the Fox. I do engine, body, paint everything so I won't be farming any work out. I enjoy reading the posts on the site.

You don’t have to spend a ton of money to make a Fox Body a competitive autocross car. Check out my “Budget Autocross” videos. They showcase and review budget-friendly mods that will make a huge difference in how your car handles on course. With the right setup, these cars can be amazing at autocross!


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtI9sXSTAIA&t



View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LD0fMKnKEnI&t



View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0PmtfhN_uI&t


My channel is dedicated to providing autocross tips for 79-04 Mustangs. There’s even a whole series about my 1992 GT that shows how I made the car competitive in CAM-T without cutting up a classic.

If you have any questions, please ask. I’m happy to help.
 
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Warhorse racing thanks for the tips, using your advice to dial the '92 in. Steeda stopped selling the rear adjustable sway bar and none are to be had. I emailed customer service and they said it was a part that they didn't make and the supplier raised the price to manufacture that they chose not to carry them any longer.
 
Warhorse racing thanks for the tips, using your advice to dial the '92 in. Steeda stopped selling the rear adjustable sway bar and none are to be had. I emailed customer service and they said it was a part that they didn't make and the supplier raised the price to manufacture that they chose not to carry them any longer.

I'm glad I could help.

Unfortunately, that is true. Back in February, I was shocked to find out Steeda had discontinued the Adjustable Rear Sway Bar and I posted an update about that in the comments on the video. I've emailed Steeda several times urging them to keep the part in production. I appreciate you emailing Steeda. I hope a lot of other people do the same thing. I'm going to contact the supplier and see if I can persuade them to keep making the part.

But, in the meantime, there are a lot of people looking to get their Mustangs to handle better without spending a ton of money. Because, generally, the setup (without the Adj. Steeda Rear Sway Bar) leans toward understeer, I would look at a larger rear sway bar. There are some 24mm rear bars out there that are relatively inexpensive. Steeda makes a 1" bar that would be stiffer than OEM, but it's $225.

You can also stiffen the rear shocks (to a point) to add beneficial oversteer. That might not put the limit as far out as having the Adj. Steeda Rear Sway Bar, but it will get the car closer to neutral.
 
I'm glad I could help.

Unfortunately, that is true. Back in February, I was shocked to find out Steeda had discontinued the Adjustable Rear Sway Bar and I posted an update about that in the comments on the video. I've emailed Steeda several times urging them to keep the part in production. I appreciate you emailing Steeda. I hope a lot of other people do the same thing. I'm going to contact the supplier and see if I can persuade them to keep making the part.

But, in the meantime, there are a lot of people looking to get their Mustangs to handle better without spending a ton of money. Because, generally, the setup (without the Adj. Steeda Rear Sway Bar) leans toward understeer, I would look at a larger rear sway bar. There are some 24mm rear bars out there that are relatively inexpensive. Steeda makes a 1" bar that would be stiffer than OEM, but it's $225.

You can also stiffen the rear shocks (to a point) to add beneficial oversteer. That might not put the limit as far out as having the Adj. Steeda Rear Sway Bar, but it will get the car closer to neutral.
I purchased the Steeda 4 link rear bars and plan to set them up as you suggested with the spherical bushings, have a set of Ebach springs, could you suggest a 24MM + bar that is a bit less expensive but a good choice for less than the new Steeda. I really appreciate the help.
 
I purchased the Steeda 4 link rear bars and plan to set them up as you suggested with the spherical bushings, have a set of Ebach springs, could you suggest a 24MM + bar that is a bit less expensive but a good choice for less than the new Steeda. I really appreciate the help.

You can try MPS Auto Salvage on Ebay. They're a Mustang-specific salvage yard in GA. LMR lists the 99-04 Mustang GT as having a 23mm or 24mm rear bar. Other people I've helped have said they have 24mm OEM rear sway bars. But, 23mm OEM rear sway bars seem to be more common.

American Muscle sells a 24mm ST performance sway bar, but the design looks a little off to me. They also have a 25mm Eibach sway bar for $156. Between the two, I'd go with the Eibach and adjust around it with adj. rear shocks and tire pressure.
 
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Thanks again, the Eibach would be my choice as I have used their products on my Miatas and RX 7s for over 20 years to good results. If you care to email me and I'll tell my racing experience going back to Watkins Glen and Bridge Hampton in the 60s and 70s, not a kid been doing this for a long time. My other project is a '84 RX7 with a built 302, 5 speed, '95 Corvette Front and rear. It is for both autocross and Virginia International Raceway track time. [email protected]
 
Thanks again, the Eibach would be my choice as I have used their products on my Miatas and RX 7s for over 20 years to good results. If you care to email me and I'll tell my racing experience going back to Watkins Glen and Bridge Hampton in the 60s and 70s, not a kid been doing this for a long time. My other project is a '84 RX7 with a built 302, 5 speed, '95 Corvette Front and rear. It is for both autocross and Virginia International Raceway track time. [email protected]

Just to clarify... The 25mm Eibach rear sway bar would work to balance out a 1 3/8 or 35mm front bar. If you are retaining the OEM front sway bar, the 25mm rear bar might be a bit much.
 
I am a member of BRR-SCCA joined back in the 90's, took a leave of absence for a few years but am back again getting the grand kids involved (great at cone work) my son is also a member. For years we raced RX 7s and Miatas. The '92 Mustang has 1 3/8 front sway bar so the Eibach should work.