Restoring a Rusted Roof

gregski · Sep 25, 2010

Door Trim Removal

I was able to remove the chrome trim above the doors. Some suggested using the special tool, others a bottle opener. Naturally the type of bottle opener that I have is not what they were probably thinking of.

So what I ended up using was my hands, a hammer and a piece of wood, (actually a wooden stir stick for paint you get at Home Depot) that I had lying around. It worked like a charm. You sit inside the car facing out. Place the tip of the wood under the trim piece and lightly tap it every couple inches or so and then use your hands to take it off.

I am not planning on putting the trim back on, however this process did not damage it at all, I could re use them if I really wanted to.

gregski · Sep 25, 2010

Progress

Looks like I am getting the best results using the Phosphoric acid I bought at home depot. It's the same ingredient as in Naval Jelly but cheaper. I used a brush to put it on and Armor All Car Wash soap with water to clean it off. Here are some shots after a single application.

Now I need to use steel wool to agitate it and keep the surface wet using a squirt bottle,

The link below suggests I use steel wool to agitate it and keep the surface wet using a squirt bottle, rinse, lather, repeat, lol.

Check out this old hot rodders results:

secrets of surface rust removal revealed

NasaGT · Sep 27, 2010

Wow, that worked better than I expected.

Platonic Solid · Sep 27, 2010

Phosphoric Acid is the same thing as Metal Ready that Por15 sells. What did Home Depot charge for it?

gregski · Sep 29, 2010

Platonic Solid said:
Phosphoric Acid is the same thing as Metal Ready that Por15 sells.

What did Home Depot charge for it?

aha, aha, $14.97 for a gallon, which is way more than enough you need to do the roof, Metal Ready on the other hand goes for over $40 bucks, I guess you're paying for the purddy bottle, lol

mr-fixit · Sep 29, 2010

I went through this about a year ago on my 65 fastback. After trying navel jellys, metal ready, and a couple other rust removers, I ended up using a product called Rust be Gone. It was the only thing that got the rust out of the small pitted areas on the roof. The others just turned the rust in the pits black.

Platonic Solid · Sep 30, 2010

mr-fixit said:
I went through this about a year ago on my 65 fastback. After trying navel jellys, metal ready, and a couple other rust removers, I ended up using a product called Rust be Gone. It was the only thing that got the rust out of the small pitted areas on the roof. The others just turned the rust in the pits black.

Products such as Metal Ready are Rust "Converters", not Rust Removers. You can get better info by comparing MSDS sheets:

Rust Converter = 3 - 7% Phosphoric Acid
Rust Remover = 15 - 40% Phosphoric Acid

Converters chemically change rust (hence your black pits) and may (depending on composition) leave a zinc oxide coating which is intended to provide a good finish bonding surface.

You just have to be more careful with rust removers as the high concentration of acid removes/dissolves metal faster. I would avoid rust removers on thin pitted metal as you're more likely to end up with through holes.

gregski · Oct 1, 2010

Heavy Lifting Has Been Done

Well looks like steel wool was the secret weapon in this rust removal process. It worked very well to agitate the rust and allow the acid to eat it up. Also paper towels worked great around the edges to keep the acid in place and maintain wettness. One gallon of phosphoric acid is enough to do an entire roof.

I still need to remove the trim between the roof and the quarter panels and remove the windshield to clean out those edges and the ones around the rear window with a wire wheel. Then do a final once over of the whole thing and prep and clean it for primer.

gregski · Oct 2, 2010

Windshield Removal

Got the windshield out just using my hands. I removed the metal trim carefully with my hands, and then used a screw driver to pop out the clips. I think if the molding was new I wouldn't be able to do it with my hands, but in this case it worked. The trim is in good shape, but I don't plan on using it anyway. Now it's time to clean up the opening.

mudbilly · Oct 2, 2010

there is no doubt that i would have cracked the windshield...........congrats....

gr8one · Oct 2, 2010

i hope your cowl doesnt look like this 1

Platonic Solid · Oct 3, 2010

Not sure how bad the rust is on your window channel, but here's how I fixed mine:

73channelrepair

73rearwindow

gregski · Oct 3, 2010

mudbilly said:
there is no doubt that i would have cracked the windshield...........congrats....

thanks mine was already cracked, but I can't take credit for that, so I figured it's already broken I can't make it any worse, well I could have but I decided not to use the BFH (Big Fine Hammer) working with a buddy helped, although he was there mostly for the wise cracks and the beer, lol

gregski · Oct 3, 2010

gr8one said:
i hope your cowl doesnt look like this 1

NOW WHY DID YOU HAVE TO SHOW ME THAT ?

I choose to remain in denial on this topic until I find out how my rusted floor repair turns out. If I do a stellar job on the floor I may take a peak inside the cowl. Thanks again for the reminder... Not! LOL

gregski · Oct 3, 2010

What's next?

Ok, once I have everything squeeky clean I will need to do something to keep Mr. Rust from coming back. I think I know the number one answer, which is spray it with Epoxy Primer of some [good] kind.

The pros of Plan A ie epoxy primer are that it will definitely keep the rust at bay, ie keep the moisture out. The cons are that I need an air compressor and a paint gun to apply it. Well maybe, as some companies now make it in a special spray can that you pull a rip cord on and activate the chemicals then apply it.

Plan B which I got from some old timer painters is to primer the bare metal with regular primer, then right away paint it with some paint, any automotive paint. Let the paint be the sealer ie preventer of moisture and rust. Then when it's time to get the vehicle painted [for real] you scuff up the paint and use it as filler and take it from there. If I go this route I plan on rattle canning it with flat black over the primer.

QUESTIONS

1. Has anyone ever used epoxy primer in a spray can, and would you recommend it?

2. What about my plan B?

3. Any other ideas?

be gentle, I'm learning here

Platonic Solid · Oct 3, 2010

Who's going to do the final paint?
You ($3,000 rough estimate for paint, compressor, guns, hoses, misc.)
Maaco ($300 to $1,200+)
Local Mid-level quality garage ($3,000 +)
Local High Quality (show quality) garage ($12,000 +)

gregski · Oct 3, 2010

Platonic Solid said:
Who's going to do the final paint?

You ($3,000 rough estimate for paint, compressor, guns, hoses, misc.)
Maaco ($300 to $1,200+)
Local Mid-level quality garage ($3,000 +)
Local High Quality (show quality) garage ($12,000 +)

Good question and definitely something I need to think about, it's just that right now I am thinking about a dozen other things as well. You are spot on, on the Maaco estimate since I actually spoke to them already. You also may be right about the mid and high quality estimates, but I hope you are a bit high on the do it yourselfer. I believe I can pick up a compressor from Harbor Freight for under $200 (using one of their 20% off coupons or waiting on a sale) I see they have guns ranging from $15 to about $45. I know it's HF quality but I may just toss the gun after I use it to primer the car and buy another one for the paint. Honestly I have no idea how much paint costs nor how much it will take to paint a car. I am toying with the idea of painting it myself. The body panels in a make shift paint booth in the backyard. The chassy in the garage with plastic drapped all around me. Which reminds me, sefety equipment, respirator mask at least $50 bucks.

I swore after I painted a motorcycle (which turned out very nice) myself that I would never do body work or paint myself again, and here I am about a decade later non the wiser, LOL.

But I am having a blast learning stuff, and imagine if I pull it off, my head will swell up to be the size of a watermelon.

Platonic Solid · Oct 3, 2010

If you're going to do the paint yourself, start by selecting the paint. Use only primers and clear coats recommended. Primer, paint and clear will all have recommended nozzle size, CFM, and PSI. Select gun(s) and tips based on these recommendations. Select compressor based on most demanding gun.

Check out Kevin Tetz's Paintucation - Paint Your Own Car!

gr8one · Oct 3, 2010

if the front and rear roof channels are bad I HATE to tell you that it would be easier to replace the roof instead of trying to fix it.

gregski · Oct 3, 2010

gr8one said:
if the front and rear roof channels are bad I HATE to tell you that it would be easier to replace the roof instead of trying to fix it.

it looks worse than it is, it's just surface rust

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