400-600, d*mn I only got 2 cases of beer out of my friend for doing his, but then again that's two cases I didn't have before. lol I'd say 400 could be close to what it'll cost for a certified welder to do the job for you. might be less if you have the interior stripped prior to having it done, and also if you buy a cage that need minimum welding.
Maximum Motorsports makes a 6 point bolt in rollcage that is NHRA legal, and is available with swing out sidebars. The rear seat can remain, but u have to climb over the cross bar to access it. Without the crossbar the cage is not legal for competition.
Mine took a day to install, and you still have to have the rear down tubes welded to the main hoop for a fully legal installation,(they bolt in place to start) but they can be welded outside the car after you make sure the fit is correct.
I bought a S&W 8 pt kit for 109 bucks plus shipping.. I had to fab, cut, and notch to my spec's but when it was done i liked it.. I did all the work and paint myself, then when I installed it and fitted it I tached it together and let a local welder do the finishing welds. I had about 400 into it for everything including paint. It's a nice kit but you have to be willing to do some fab work on your own. here are a couple of pics.. And if you drive it all the time get swing outs. I don't have them, but it is a bit of a PITA to climb in and out but mines a weekend toy so it's not a big deal to me.
400-600, d*mn I only got 2 cases of beer out of my friend for doing his, but then again that's two cases I didn't have before. lol I'd say 400 could be close to what it'll cost for a certified welder to do the job for you. might be less if you have the interior stripped prior to having it done, and also if you buy a cage that need minimum welding.
LOL,yeah really! I think Im gonna go to some local shops and get some referrals,Im a pretty good arc welder,but its been a long time ! Im gonna buy a cage and get it chromed,before I get it installed ! Thanks for all the help!!
400-600, d*mn I only got 2 cases of beer out of my friend for doing his, but then again that's two cases I didn't have before. lol I'd say 400 could be close to what it'll cost for a certified welder to do the job for you. might be less if you have the interior stripped prior to having it done, and also if you buy a cage that need minimum welding.
Do not weld it yourself unless you'd bet your life on your welding skills. Use only MIG or TIG welds and DOM or CrMoly materials. One bar breaking loose in an accident can kill you instantly. Never put someone in the back seat if you have a roll bar or cage. PERIOD. All the padding in the world won't save someone in the backseat from severe injuries when their soft tissues stretch and connect with tubing. Here are my recommendations if you are planning on running a roll bar or cage:
1. Get 5pt SFI-approved 3" harnesses (RCI, Simpson, Sparco, G-Force, and others make approved harnesses). The stock belts will not keep you in place during an accident. Even 5pt harnesses stretch during impact and you can still hit your head. The human spinal column and soft tissues can stretch a LOT in an accident. Never run a roll bar or cage with stock seatbelts. You need at least a 5pt harness. Do not use a Y-type shoulder harness as these have shown to discourage balanced distribution across the torso in a collision which can lead to severe neck and spinal injuries.
2. A fixed upright FIA-approved seat. Corbeau Forzas are very popular as are Recaros and Sparco seats. Look for the FIA-approved or Homologation certification. That means the seats are tested to withstand impact forces. OE seats flex TOO much and the folding seatback and sliding mounts can very easily fail in a collision.
3. Use FIA-approved roll bar padding. http://www.rollbarpadding.com sells the best FIA-approved padding I know of. The "water pipe insulation" that most speed shops sell does absolutely jack **** to protect you in a crash. You need FIA-approved padding to absorb the majority of the energy transmitted if you do connect with a bar.
4. Use an adjustable seat brace that connects to the harness bar and make sure it is firmly attached to the seat back. This will discourage belt stretch due to seat flex in an accident and secure the seat to the roll bar or cage if the primary mounts fail. The seat mounts should use at least four Grade 8 Bolts and ideally should attache to the roll bar and frame.
Most certified welders/chassis builders charge at least $70 per point. If they have to strip the car, it can get expensive really fast (try upwards of $2000).
I think he made some very valid and correct points. Your post not only brought this thread back from the dead, it has a sound of sarcasm which IMO is unjustified.