Since I have my car mostly apart and waiting on a few items I decided to pull the pedal assembly and rollerize it. So, before I re-invent the wheel I want to see what others have done. Any pics or links would be greatly appreciated.
That's some nice work, Ronstang. Is any of that MustangSteve's design, or is it all home-grown? If you've already written up a more detailed "How I Did It" on this, please direct me to it. I'd really like to know what components you chose (vacuum booster, master cylinder, etc.) - it's never too early to start gearing up for those winter projects, y'know.
That's some nice work, Ronstang. Is any of that MustangSteve's design, or is it all home-grown? If you've already written up a more detailed "How I Did It" on this, please direct me to it. I'd really like to know what components you chose (vacuum booster, master cylinder, etc.) - it's never too early to start gearing up for those winter projects, y'know.
Actually it is all my own stuff. I concieved and designed the ball bearing pedal support the general clutch setup about 8 years ago long before I had access to the internet and I never had seen the idea....it just made sense. I just finally got around to making it a reality because I now have access to a machine shop. If fact I have had those bearings left over from a project for those 8 years...that is why I had to make the brass shims becasuse the bearings are not exactly the right size but I simply used what I had.
The brake booster is out of a 85-93 Mustang 4 cylinder. They are plentiful in the salvage yards. Just find one that is not too corroded. I picked mine up for $20 at Pick-A-Part. I made a tool to disassemble it and check it out and it was in excellent shape so it should work great. You can use just about any MC you want on this booster and the one you choose depends upon your application and whether you have disc in the rear or drum. The one in the pics is out of a 90 V8 Fox body Mustang and is just being used to decide if I want the newer style with the plastic tank.
I'm sorry that I do not have a write up. I put those pics up for some friends that wanted to see what I had done. If you have any specific questions let me know and I will help you. The most important part of the brake booster conversion is the need to relocate the pin on the pedal. I added material to the pedal to get the brake pedal at the right height abd the pedal ratio as correct as I could. The brake pedal on my setup sits where it did originally. A friend of mine has Mustang Steve's setup and although I have not seen the setup he tells me his pedal sits lower than the clutch pedal because even though the pin is relocated no material was added to the pedal to put the pin in the optimal spot to retain stock pedal height.
The only reason my setup is so elaborate is I wanted to be able to install and pull the pedals without taking the steering column loose and removing the entire pedal support so a removable quadrant was mandatory. Everything you see is a basically a prototype because I just designed as I built. I even started with a aftermarket aluminum quardrant I got out of a junked 5.0 becasue I already had that peice laying around. Some things could probably be made simpler but I don't like compromises and this cable clutch is the only one I have seen that has exactly the same cable travel as what Ford uses in the newer cars. Although this may not be important I wanted keep all my tolerances to what Ford engineers established.
For those who have done the roller bearing conversion, what did you use on the inside between the brake pedal and the pedal hanger (the area where the stock pot metal bushing would be). I'm planning on using a thrust bearing in there, but wanted to know what others have done. I should have my setup finished later this week.
So the brake pedal rides up against those bushings? Do you have anything between them? Or just the plastic busing that rides inside the brake pedal? Does it wear the either bushing? Does it flex at all?
The plastic bushings are retained in the brake pedal and it is in the exact position it was origianlly. There is a little clearance to allow for movement but the pedal is solid and the plastic busings will wear no more than they did in the original setup.