Engine Obstinate Pilot Bearing removal

FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet
SN Certified Technician
Sep 5, 2001
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Vass, NC
I've gotten myself into a pickle, here, boys. Just a simple pilot bearing swap has ruined my day. I've got a great little puller, but the bearing race is so stubborn that all I managed to do with it was gut the internals and meave myself with almost nothing to grab onto. Started with a grinder until I realized I had gotten into the crank a little, and decided to stop and reassess before I really screw something up.

Here's the tool that can't get enough of a ledge on the backside of the pilot race:

IMG-20260212-WA0001.webp


Here's where I'm at:
IMG-20260212-WA0004.webp


Without any further advice, I'll go back after it with the grinder until it's out or gone, but is there a better method? This is sure to scar the crank even more by the time I'm done.
 
This level of work is way above my paygrade, but could you use like one of those little bits people use to port intakes/heads? Don't know the name of what those are but might allow you to be a little more precise. Unless thats what you're already using and calling it a grinder.
 
Yeah I started with a rounded grinding bit, but I'm going to go to more of a cylinder that's squarish if you get my meaning at the back. That seems like the only thing that makes any sense to me right now and just wanted to see what other people thought.

The only other two things that a mechanic in my family is suggested are a torch and smashing the hell out of the brittle type of metal that this apparently is to the point that it shatters. I think even still that grinding might be the best way ahead for me.
 
Thanks, guys. I'm convinced hydraulic action won't work with the limited area on the backend of what's left of the bearing race. So, I plan to drill, tap, and grind my way to getting this b&%*@ out.
 
F0r some broke timing cover bolts, I got a bunch of diamond tip dremel bits at Lowes, and ground/cut the bolt out of the hole with a Dremel tool until I could just knock the rest out. The same technique should work on this, cut a slot, then hammer it from the walls and get it out.
 
I don’t think heating the crank hub would do much since you’d really need to heat the entire hub.

But what about chilling the bearing race to shrink it a smidge?
 
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Matter of fact, having an experienced welder perform this task is probably the way to go. They’ll know the right settings and process to make something stick adequately to get it done. For instance, molecular makeup of the two pieces getting welded together is important to consider. Welding together dissimilar material doesn’t always work well
 
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