Roller cam conversion????
- Thread starter tbird187
- Start date
Comp Cams actually makes roller lifters that are designed for non-roller blocks, they run about $300 per set. Other than the lifters themselves you would need pushrods of the proper length, a roller cam, and a distributor designed to run with a roller cam.
What engine are you attempting to convert?
Some of the late 80's non-roller 302's were drilled to accept roller hardware. A few more details are needed to determine exactly what parts you would need.
What engine are you attempting to convert?
Some of the late 80's non-roller 302's were drilled to accept roller hardware. A few more details are needed to determine exactly what parts you would need.
408stroker5.0
The world would be a better place if all males jus
The Roller lifter's Comp Sell are basically the same as factory Ford Roller Lifters.
For a non-roller block you need to buy a retro-fit kit which Comp makes. This kit contain's the part's nesecary to convert a non roller block to roller (Spider, Dog Bones, & Bolt's) You have to drill and tap 3 holes in the lifter valley in order to mount the spider/lifter retainer. From then on throw the lifter's in and dog bone's (Which Retain 2 Lifters) and bolt the spider (retain's the dog bones down) down... Pretty Simple. Some block's require a bit of grinding on the lifter boss so the dogbone sit's flush.
Either that or you can go to Crane Cams.... They sell a direct drop in Roller Lifter for non roller blocks which uses a link bar to retain the lifter's.... these are more expensive then the Comp Setup but easier and less time consuming to install.
Other then that you just need to get the proper dist. gear & pushrod's.
Shon
For a non-roller block you need to buy a retro-fit kit which Comp makes. This kit contain's the part's nesecary to convert a non roller block to roller (Spider, Dog Bones, & Bolt's) You have to drill and tap 3 holes in the lifter valley in order to mount the spider/lifter retainer. From then on throw the lifter's in and dog bone's (Which Retain 2 Lifters) and bolt the spider (retain's the dog bones down) down... Pretty Simple. Some block's require a bit of grinding on the lifter boss so the dogbone sit's flush.
Either that or you can go to Crane Cams.... They sell a direct drop in Roller Lifter for non roller blocks which uses a link bar to retain the lifter's.... these are more expensive then the Comp Setup but easier and less time consuming to install.
Other then that you just need to get the proper dist. gear & pushrod's.
Shon
JMO, but to tell you the truth and not to put a negative spin on it, you'd probably be better of just scraping your current set up an just buying a factory roller block. Aside from the cost associated with converting it to a roller cam, you also have to deal with the crappy design of the ever-leaking 2-piece rear seal main seal in the earlier block and you’re force to stick with the earlier flywheel design as well. You could pick up a roller block "cheap" out of a late 80's, early 90's F-150 and be further ahead than you are now....and still come out with a better engine.
408stroker5.0
The world would be a better place if all males jus
True Gearbanger101...keep in mind though mid 1967 to the early 70's 302 block's contained a higher nickel content resulting in a stronger block. The only downside is like you said having to deal with a 2pce rear main which is bearable. I'd say if you have a 67 to early 70's block... stick with it and do the roller conversion.
What's the casting number on your block tbird187??
Shon
What's the casting number on your block tbird187??
Shon
408stroker5.0
The world would be a better place if all males jus
Gearbanger101..... From what I know The Link Bar Crane Roller lifter's can be used with any Brand/Type of Hyd. Roller Cam out there. I'm sure I've heard of people using them with a Comp Cam, Ed Curtis, Lunati, etc. etc. etc.
Shon
Shon
408stroker5.0
The world would be a better place if all males jus
Whoa.... this thread is screwed up. My post ended up before Gearbanger... should have been after.
If I’m not mistaken, you’ve also got to run the special crane roller camshaft designed for their conversion kit as well. I seem to remember a friend of mine buying one when they first introduced them 10 or so years ago and having to buy their “base circle” camshaft to coincide with the conversion kit. As I remember it, there weren’t that many grinds available either. Things may have changed since then though?battyice said:
408 stroker...yes you are correct. the late 60's/early 70's blocks were a bit beefier now that you mention it, but your standard roller block will still hold anywhere from 500-550+hp pretty safely. More than most of us will ever run on a street engine. I'd say if cost and practicallity are an issue, go with the original Ford late model roller block. Beyond that, I guess the sky's the limit....and take it as far as your Visa will let you.
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