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runability problem 91 gt

  • Thread starter Thread starter 8.8mustang
  • Start date Start date Apr 3, 2009
8

8.8mustang

Member
Aug 20, 2006
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0
6
washington
Apr 3, 2009
#1
  • Apr 3, 2009
  • #1
to start off the car had water in the oil. So I changed the motor I used all the sensors from the old motor except the oil sender wich I used from the replacement motor and i put a new air temp sensor in. All the other sensors where replaced about a year ago. The car runs horrible until you put the clutch in then the check engine light goes off and the car idles down and runs good. The check code is not scanning I am clue less here I messed with stuff all yesterday then found the clucth thing this morning any ideas or has this happened to you?
 
8

8.8mustang

Member
Aug 20, 2006
67
0
6
washington
Apr 3, 2009
#2
  • Apr 3, 2009
  • #2
more info

the car ran perfect before the motor swap
 

jrichker

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#3
  • Apr 3, 2009
  • #3
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
 
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