s spring

legalize420

Active Member

May 21, 2005

1,541

1

37

South Florida

Sep 13, 2011

#1

• Sep 13, 2011

• #1

having a bit of trouble getting this thing back in. im thinking about pulling the differential out and removing the ring gear for more clearance. i would mark the ring gear so it can go back in the same spot. if i do that can i just put the differential back in and finish up with the install or will i have to check for clearances or measure anything before continuing? thanks

 

Last5.0

Active Member

Nov 9, 2003

404

1

26

Sep 13, 2011

#2

• Sep 13, 2011

• #2

I've found it easiest to place the spring halfway into a vice and compress it, then put a hose clamp on it to hold it compressed. After you get it halfway installed then use some aviator snips to cut the clamp off and tap it in with a hammer the rest of the way.

You can also try with a pair of vice grips on one end to hold it closed enough to get it started then hammer it in the rest of the way.

 

legalize420

Active Member

May 21, 2005

1,541

1

37

South Florida

Sep 13, 2011

#3

• Sep 13, 2011

• #3

i will try both. did not think about putting it half way in the vice. good call. im going to have to go get a hose clamp. the ones i have laying around are too big or too small. still would like to know about removing the ring gear. if i did it would give me a straight shot. right now i have to angle it first then push it

 

Last5.0

Active Member

Nov 9, 2003

404

1

26

Sep 13, 2011

#4

• Sep 13, 2011

• #4

You can pull the trac lock but make sure you mark and keep the caps orientated not only from left/right side but also up and down. Also keep the shims orientated that will be on each outer end of the trac lock. As long as you put it all back the same way they were then you should be fine.

 

Adam95GT

New Member

Aug 14, 2006

2,564

3

0

Burlington, NJ

Sep 13, 2011

#5

• Sep 13, 2011

• #5

Last5.0 said:

I've found it easiest to place the spring halfway into a vice and compress it, then put a hose clamp on it to hold it compressed. After you get it halfway installed then use some aviator snips to cut the clamp off and tap it in with a hammer the rest of the way.

You can also try with a pair of vice grips on one end to hold it closed enough to get it started then hammer it in the rest of the way.

Click to expand...

This is an awesome tip.

 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

20+ Year Stangneter

Jun 14, 2004

9,288

1,631

214

Acworth, GA

Sep 13, 2011

#6

• Sep 13, 2011

• #6

I use two really heavy zip ties and then just cut them with a pair of dykes.

Kurt

 

legalize420

Active Member

May 21, 2005

1,541

1

37

South Florida

Sep 13, 2011

#7

• Sep 13, 2011

• #7

done got it with a hose clamp. took a few tries but i was able to wedge it in by hand then a few taps of the hammer got it half way in. after that just loosened the clamp all the way and and squeezed it out. i test fit the pinion shaft and everything is good to go. going to finish bolting everything back up tomorrow. thanks for the replies

 

MFE92

10 Year Member

Aug 25, 2010

1,094

372

124

Phoenix

Sep 17, 2011

#8

• Sep 17, 2011

• #8

I've found it easiest to just leave the damn thing out. It's only there to provide some preload so the diff doesn't act like an open diff in situations that are so slippery it can't generate enough torque at either wheel to self-actuate the clutches. If you don't drive it in mud or snow, leave it out and never miss it. I'm at 4.5 years, and 33,000 miles (over 2250 of them on race tracks) without mine and I've never once missed it being there.