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Sarter problems...need help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mizark347
  • Start date Start date May 24, 2004
M

Mizark347

Member
Jan 21, 2004
145
0
16
Detroit
May 24, 2004
#1
  • May 24, 2004
  • #1
Installed a Ford Racing mini starter, fried the solenoid on it while installing it. I got a new solenoid, hooked everything up right this time and starter still wont work. So I hooked up the old starter and that wont work either. What could have happened? What circuts can i check and where are they? Please help. Thanks
 
T

TheUser

Active Member
Jul 25, 2003
1,859
1
36
Springfield, MO
May 24, 2004
#2
  • May 24, 2004
  • #2
$5 says bad/non-existant ground. I had the same problem. Make sure the neg. cable is hooked to your timing cover where it should be. You can also check ground by using a set of jumper cables and attach one end to neg. cable/battery and the other end to ground (alt bracket works well). If it works, it's bad ground.
 
M

Mizark347

Member
Jan 21, 2004
145
0
16
Detroit
May 24, 2004
#3
  • May 24, 2004
  • #3
Grounds are good....relay brand new
 
S

strtracer442

New Member
Dec 12, 2003
175
0
0
Roseville,MI
May 24, 2004
#4
  • May 24, 2004
  • #4
When you say wont work,what do you mean. Does it click and not turn,it does nothing,what? you need to be more specific!
Battery needs to be fully charged ie 14 volts or better not 12
Are the interior lights/accesorys getting power?
Headlights?
did you reconnect the start terminal on the factory solonoid on the fender?
Are your cables in good shape and of good quality? Standard auto store replacement cables suck, they usually are to small a gauge and then they cover them with thicker covers to make them look bigger. I use only Delco or genuine Ford.
You should have a negative cable from you - battery to the block or timing cover,a 10 gauge wire from you - battery to a clean(no paint) body mount, there should be a ground strap from one of the heads to the firewall,all are important.
With the FMS starter you will have a cable from positive battery terminal or the primary terminal on the fender solonoid to the post on the solonoid on the starter. Then you will have a 10 or 12 gauge wire from the secondary side of the fender solonoid to the spade terminal on the FMS starter. If you are running your + battery cable directly to the starter, you must still supply 12 volts to the primary side of the fender solonoid.

With the factory starter the + cable goes to the fender solonoid(primary) and then a second cable runs from the secondary side down to the starter.

Again remember to reattach you trigger wire(it runs from your ignition switch to the fender solonoid) or nothing is gonna happen
 
M

Mizark347

Member
Jan 21, 2004
145
0
16
Detroit
May 25, 2004
#5
  • May 25, 2004
  • #5
Battery has full power. Everything has power and works to its fullest. Yea, it does make a single click sound when i turn the key. The first time i hooked the new starter up their was a spark around the driver side header area. Could this have been a problem? if so what can I check?
 
M

Mizark347

Member
Jan 21, 2004
145
0
16
Detroit
May 25, 2004
#6
  • May 25, 2004
  • #6
Someones gotta know. Its really pissin me off.
 
S

strtracer442

New Member
Dec 12, 2003
175
0
0
Roseville,MI
May 26, 2004
#7
  • May 26, 2004
  • #7
Spark around header indicates a bare positive wire,check all youre cables from end to end
 
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