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Shake, rattle and roll

  • Thread starter Thread starter bigvino
  • Start date Start date Nov 4, 2011

bigvino

Member
Mar 22, 2010
259
1
19
Corpus Christi, TEXAS
Nov 4, 2011
#1
  • Nov 4, 2011
  • #1
While i was driving down the highway, i punched the throttle! and felt a loud and hard vibration coming from under the car.. soo i pulled into a parking lot and my car suddenly died! I tried to turn it back on and all i heard was *CLICK* then with help from a stranger i popped the clutch and got it started again! Soo... i was driving down the street about for about 2 miles and noticed a small cloud of smoke coming from the engine compartment!!! The Positive side of the starter had come off (from the vibration) and touch the casing of the starter.which started a small fire.I fixed that!! now im having horrible vibration when im coasting/cruising, however when i press the acceleration i get minimal vibration.

I know that iam leaking these places...the output seal from the transmission, inside the flywheel area, and the rear differential input seal....

i think the driveshaft is moving around which is causing the vibration when the acceleration is not on?

Thanks everyone!
 

foxbodymike87

Active Member
Jul 12, 2011
739
35
39
Nov 4, 2011
#2
  • Nov 4, 2011
  • #2
if your seals are bad that can deffinatly make your driveshaft vibrate.
 

bigvino

Member
Mar 22, 2010
259
1
19
Corpus Christi, TEXAS
Nov 4, 2011
#3
  • Nov 4, 2011
  • #3
i talked to a buddy of mine and he said it might be "something in the flywheel area" im not to sure what that is?
 

jrichker

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Nov 4, 2011
#4
  • Nov 4, 2011
  • #4
Check the U joints: They are a known problem with driveline vibrations. With the car on 4 jackstands, crawl under and see if you can shake the driveshaft or twist it by hand with the trans in gear or Park. Next try rotating one of the rear wheels and note any slack in the U joints while turning the wheel forward and backward. You may need a helper to turn the wheel while you watch the U joints for slack or movement. It may be necessary to block the wheel that you aren’t turning to keep it from rotating. Slack or movement of the U joints means you need new U joints, which are about $10-$12 each. Do the front and rear U joints at the same time.


U joint replacement:
1.) Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.
2.) Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission.
3.) Remove the snap rings from the bearing caps and it's now big hammer and socket time. Use a suitable big socket as a punch and another bigger one on the opposite side to act as a receiver. Pound away with the big hammer to drive the old U joint bearing cups out. The installation process is the reverse of the removal, except use a block of wood to hammer on rather than a socket. An air hammer is a great tool to have about this time, and it beats (excuse the pun) doing it by hand.
4.) Reinstall the drive shaft, slide the yoke in place. Align the rear yellow markings and install the bolts. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to tighten the bolts.
5.) Check the fluid level in the trans while you have the car up on jackstands. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Remove the top plug and stick your little finger inside the trans: if has oil all over it, the trans is full of oil. If not, add Dextron/Mercon ATF (T5) or GM Synchromesh Black ( Tremec 3550, TKO, TKO 500 & 600) until it flows out the top filler port. Put a catch pan under the transmission to catch the fluid when you fill it to catch the overflow. A 4 ft length of ½” garden hose and a funnel is the tool for filling the trans with oil. Insert one end of the hose in the trans filler port and the funnel on the other end. Raise the funnel end up to level with the top of the front fender and pour away until you see some overflow. Put the pipe plug back in and tighten securely.

Get car down off the jackstands and go for a test drive. If the U joints were the problem, your vibration & noise will be gone. If not, it wasn't an expensive fix and you learned something in the process...
 
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