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Shock Tower question

  • Thread starter Thread starter NY-67stang
  • Start date Start date May 30, 2010

NY-67stang

Member
Jul 27, 2009
58
0
7
Syracuse NY
May 30, 2010
#1
  • May 30, 2010
  • #1
I was cleaning the stang today and as I cleaned the shock tower are I found this. It looks like it split to me. I looked at the passenger side and it is better but still odd. (notice the glob of weld on passenger side, could that be factory).

This can't be normal can it?
Or is this a case where I should replace the shock tower or weld it up.


See red circle:


Close up:



Passenger side



close up
 

tx65coupe

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
1,551
1
37
May 31, 2010
#2
  • May 31, 2010
  • #2
That looks like damage to me. I doubt its factory. I agree that it does look weird though.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
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79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
May 31, 2010
#3
  • May 31, 2010
  • #3
Doesn't look weird to me, I've seen it many, many times. The 67-70 towers are susceptible to this, especially when aftermarket wheels, with a positive offset, are used. Welding them will create a "heat effected zone" that will easily re-crack. The cure is new towers (for a long time only used ones were available). The prevention is to avoid wheels with other than stock offset.

Something else you should do as part of this is the "Arning/Shelby drop".

http://site.cobranda.com/tech/aarms.pdf
 
O

other_shoe

Member
May 4, 2007
313
3
19
May 31, 2010
#4
  • May 31, 2010
  • #4
I had a shock tower rip when I hit the brakes hard in an emergency. It held just enough for me to still be able to steer out of the situation, but it wasn't pleasant. I'd replace them now, if I were you.
 

NY-67stang

Member
Jul 27, 2009
58
0
7
Syracuse NY
May 31, 2010
#5
  • May 31, 2010
  • #5
2+2GT said:
Doesn't look weird to me, I've seen it many, many times. The 67-70 towers are susceptible to this, especially when aftermarket wheels, with a positive offset, are used. Welding them will create a "heat effected zone" that will easily re-crack. The cure is new towers (for a long time only used ones were available). The prevention is to avoid wheels with other than stock offset.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I considered rewelding them since they are reinforced on the other side and then adding the boss tower reinforcement kit.

2+2GT said:
Something else you should do as part of this is the "Arning/Shelby drop".

http://site.cobranda.com/tech/aarms.pdf
Click to expand...

I did the drop on my cougar and will do it on the stang too. TCP makes an UCA with the drop already machined into it.

Total Control Products
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
May 31, 2010
#6
  • May 31, 2010
  • #6
NY-67stang said:
I did the drop on my cougar and will do it on the stang too. TCP makes an UCA with the drop already machined into it.
Click to expand...

Interesting, but for $719 less you could just drill some holes.
 

NY-67stang

Member
Jul 27, 2009
58
0
7
Syracuse NY
May 31, 2010
#7
  • May 31, 2010
  • #7
2+2GT said:
Interesting, but for $719 less you could just drill some holes.
Click to expand...

Valid point - but your also getting the tubular UCA.
The drop unit itself is $60
Total Control Products

When I drilled the holes on the cougar they came out right at the edge of the reinforcement piece. Not a big issue, I welded some shims so I could get full contact with the bolts.

At any rate I will be either drilling or installing the TCP unit on the stang as I like the result on the cougar.

PS-Thanks for the advice on the Shock tower. I will be re-thinking it now
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
May 31, 2010
#8
  • May 31, 2010
  • #8
A pair of these would solve your problems.

 

NY-67stang

Member
Jul 27, 2009
58
0
7
Syracuse NY
May 31, 2010
#9
  • May 31, 2010
  • #9
2+2GT said:
A pair of these would solve your problems.

Click to expand...

Your right. Since I have it stripped anyway, I will probably be better off in the long run replacing them and then not having to worry about something happening down the road.
 

StangDreamin'

Founding Member
Aug 10, 2002
583
0
16
2nd Ocotillo bush east of the Colorado River; Sout
May 31, 2010
#10
  • May 31, 2010
  • #10
+3 on the new towers, Ray. This is one of those times when you don't have to devise an "ECI Cure"
 

StangDreamin'

Founding Member
Aug 10, 2002
583
0
16
2nd Ocotillo bush east of the Colorado River; Sout
Jun 1, 2010
#11
  • Jun 1, 2010
  • #11
Hadn't seen your thread over on mercurycougar.net

To repeat myself in the title of this post; I hadn't stopped in at mercurycougar.net until just before typing this.

I'd still go along with CopyCat "over there" and 2+2GT "over here": Just grab some new shock towers, either from Don or any of the Mustang suppliers that sell Dynacorn products. That company sells the "big block" shock towers that are already reinforced for the heavier engines.

It's up to you; re-welding them with all the reinforcements, or replacing them with the reinforcements already robotic welded in......
 

NY-67stang

Member
Jul 27, 2009
58
0
7
Syracuse NY
Jun 1, 2010
#12
  • Jun 1, 2010
  • #12
StangDreamin' said:
To repeat myself in the title of this post; I hadn't stopped in at mercurycougar.net until just before typing this.

I'd still go along with CopyCat "over there" and 2+2GT "over here": Just grab some new shock towers, either from Don or any of the Mustang suppliers that sell Dynacorn products. That company sells the "big block" shock towers that are already reinforced for the heavier engines.

It's up to you; re-welding them with all the reinforcements, or replacing them with the reinforcements already robotic welded in......
Click to expand...

I'll be buying new ones and welding them in right after I do the floors and TB.
 
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