Shock Tower question

I was cleaning the stang today and as I cleaned the shock tower are I found this. It looks like it split to me. I looked at the passenger side and it is better but still odd. (notice the glob of weld on passenger side, could that be factory).

This can't be normal can it?
Or is this a case where I should replace the shock tower or weld it up.


See red circle:
drivershocktoweridentified.webp


Close up:
driversshocktower2.webp

driversshocktower1.webp


Passenger side

passengershocktoweridentified.webp


close up
passengershocktower2.webp
 
Doesn't look weird to me, I've seen it many, many times. The 67-70 towers are susceptible to this, especially when aftermarket wheels, with a positive offset, are used. Welding them will create a "heat effected zone" that will easily re-crack. The cure is new towers (for a long time only used ones were available). The prevention is to avoid wheels with other than stock offset.

Something else you should do as part of this is the "Arning/Shelby drop".

http://site.cobranda.com/tech/aarms.pdf
 
I had a shock tower rip when I hit the brakes hard in an emergency. It held just enough for me to still be able to steer out of the situation, but it wasn't pleasant. I'd replace them now, if I were you.
 
Doesn't look weird to me, I've seen it many, many times. The 67-70 towers are susceptible to this, especially when aftermarket wheels, with a positive offset, are used. Welding them will create a "heat effected zone" that will easily re-crack. The cure is new towers (for a long time only used ones were available). The prevention is to avoid wheels with other than stock offset.

Interesting. I considered rewelding them since they are reinforced on the other side and then adding the boss tower reinforcement kit.

Something else you should do as part of this is the "Arning/Shelby drop".

http://site.cobranda.com/tech/aarms.pdf

I did the drop on my cougar and will do it on the stang too. TCP makes an UCA with the drop already machined into it.

Total Control Products
 
Interesting, but for $719 less you could just drill some holes.

Valid point - but your also getting the tubular UCA.
The drop unit itself is $60
Total Control Products

When I drilled the holes on the cougar they came out right at the edge of the reinforcement piece. Not a big issue, I welded some shims so I could get full contact with the bolts.

At any rate I will be either drilling or installing the TCP unit on the stang as I like the result on the cougar.

PS-Thanks for the advice on the Shock tower. I will be re-thinking it now
 
Hadn't seen your thread over on mercurycougar.net

To repeat myself in the title of this post; I hadn't stopped in at mercurycougar.net until just before typing this.

I'd still go along with CopyCat "over there" and 2+2GT "over here": Just grab some new shock towers, either from Don or any of the Mustang suppliers that sell Dynacorn products. That company sells the "big block" shock towers that are already reinforced for the heavier engines.

It's up to you; re-welding them with all the reinforcements, or replacing them with the reinforcements already robotic welded in......
 
To repeat myself in the title of this post; I hadn't stopped in at mercurycougar.net until just before typing this.

I'd still go along with CopyCat "over there" and 2+2GT "over here": Just grab some new shock towers, either from Don or any of the Mustang suppliers that sell Dynacorn products. That company sells the "big block" shock towers that are already reinforced for the heavier engines.

It's up to you; re-welding them with all the reinforcements, or replacing them with the reinforcements already robotic welded in......

I'll be buying new ones and welding them in right after I do the floors and TB.