SIDE SCOOPS!!!!

I like the 3D Carbon or OEM GT/CS side scoops.

This is the only website I've ever found that had them pre-painted.

http://www.lmperformance.com/7609/87.html

Have you tried " Silver horse racing"

my favorite ones, they look factory to me, and they look like they fit the best, and flow with the lines the best. is the cervinis ones.



these are the ones on my car, i have those, and the quarter window scoops, and it made my car look that much more aggressive.

I'm guessing you've never had anything painted for a car before. It's going to cost a lot more than $20. I would expect to pay $150 decent paint.

TRIBALMAN23 said:

About what price should i look for to have these painted?
20dollars or 100 dollars? What is reasonable price for having these painted to match my cars paint?

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i paid around 140 i think for my side scoops and my quarter window scoops painted at the same time, at the second best body shop in town.

i'd expect around 80 or higher for a quality job. i wouldn't want to go looking around for the cheapest place, but the highest quality place. prep work is key.

i did auto collision repair for 2 years, and hopefully getting back into it soon. prep work can make or break a paint job.

gotta factor in paint, clear coat, primer, sandpaper, any kind of finessing they have to do to make it fit like it was a factory piece. then you gotta factor in labor, they gotta sand it down, prime it, sand that down, might have to prime it again, paint it, then clearcoat it, if they have any kind of runs or orange peel, they gotta sand it and buff it, or if they sand too much they have to clear it again. and then you got wait time inbetween coats. you can't prime it and pull it right out of the booth and start to sand it down, it is too soft and you'll just shred thru no matter what grit you use its gotta cure. and you gotta clean it before you coat it, i always tack ragged it and prepsall'd whatever i was painting. then any kind of labor, or tiny part like that in the paint booth, when they need to throw a car in pronto, so your tiny part is hogging up the booth. etc.

you don't want joe blow auto to say they'll paint it for 40 bucks, sand half the part down, then prime it, then paint it 5 minutes later, and clear it another 5 minutes later and 2 months down the road the paint is chipping off, because they didn't prep the surface, or didn't clean the surface, so the paint couldn't adhere properly, or the paint never dried underneath the clear coat because they didn't wait the flash time.


i'd look for a place that does alot of custom work, thats why i went with where i did for mine. they deal with aftermarket body panels and etc all the time, so they know what to expect for fitment, spraying, because spraying some of those aftermarket parts and getting it nice and wet but not running and not being too dry can be tricky. especially with something like a clearcoat. whenever i sprayed clear i found it gave it the best gloss the heavier it went on. but its hard to spray heavy, and not run.


call around a couple shops, and look for one doing water based paint. its a pretty new thing. the paint matches alot better, it sprays alot easier, using less paint, so less cost to you. with regular spraying, some aftermarket parts can look dead on from the front, the side be too dark, and the back be too light. different materials will make this stand out even more.


i know its long, but i figure its alot of good information for you to read, cause i know how tempting it is to go for the cheaper shop to save a little money.

TRIBALMAN23 said:

I have, but it was for trucks. Before my stang I only had lifted trucks. I figured two small pieces of plastic, would run way more than 20 dollars, but 150 dollars for such small pieces?

I could see maybe a top amount of 90 dollars but wow! I guess I was wrong.

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its probably about 60 bucks a quart for your paint. i almost got a deal because the shop i was gunna get them painted at had just painted a mazda ford blue, it turns out the ford blue they did was sonic blue, not vista. so that wouldnt of worked out in my favor.

i think those are 20s he has.

TRIBALMAN23 said:

Wow thanks autumn_again
That is very helpful in so many ways.
Thanks for taking the time to help me and explain a few things to understand this process better.

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no problem. got all the info in my head, try to share any information i can with anyone who needs it. hah.

one thing i forgot to mention is with parts like these, they have a gel coating on them, so this way they don't get stuck in the machine that forms the shape. so thats a main reason why the prep is so crucial.

if it isn't sanded off the paint will look somewhat like this.
View attachment 276287

and the finish wont hold up.

and if your going to put the scoops on yourself, make sure to get some adhesion promoter to use with the 3M tape. cars like these depending on the use, may see triple digits fairly often. don't wanna have to worry about it coming off at the track and cracking the windshield of the honda you just beat.

and you don't really wanna like wax or polish it for a month or so after you get it done. the paint is soft still, and some polishes have abrasives in them.

i could go on and on haha. sorry. i can get carried away.

My wheels are 20x10 in the rear and 8.5 up front.

Since I'm such a detailer, unless the paint is baked which it won't be, you should wait 90 days before waxing, polishing, etc.

NastyStang113 said:

My wheels are 20x10 in the rear and 8.5 up front.

Since I'm such a detailer, unless the paint is baked which it won't be, you should wait 90 days before waxing, polishing, etc.

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see that's weird, i was taught so many different things for when you were able to wax and etc a freshly painted surface. i always stuck to the 90 days thing too, but lately every shop i've talked to, everything i've read has pretty much been a month. if your not careful you could definitely do some damage if you got any dirt or anything on the cloth your using to apply the wax.

and you never know on the baking where i used to do body work we would bake almost everything we painted. i'd say 99% of places probably don't do it though.

I'm sure you can do it before 90 days but it's not worth the risk. The paint needs ample time to harden.

I don't think I would bake a plastic side scoop though.

Yeah unless you can find a good connection on paint $100 would be right on...I actually ordered my Roush Louvers through a Truck cap dealer. and they only charged me $60 and it was exact color match. The only problem was when they were first put on certain ligth angles they looked different due to the metal flake.

After the 90 days i notived the color due to the metal flake actually started to cause the color change which exactly matched the car and now they look OEM stock. it was neat seeing them match perfectly after some time.

I've seen the quarter panel scoops on eBay for under $200 painted and shipped. With OEM paint, of course; so it applies to you. I'm sure it won't be too hard to find if you search "mustang scoops" on eBay.

+1 to autumn! Also, painting smaller pieces usually costs more than a larger job as it's not as cost effective for the shop. Depending on the shop, you could spend anywhere between $30-50 an hour for paint and/or body labor.
I got the Xenon side scoops and am having them painted and installed on my car now. Not sure how much that is yet as I'm having other stuff done as well and haven't finalized the total...

NastyStang113 said:

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I don't think I would bake a plastic side scoop though.

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With plenty of salt and butter, they're not too bad