sn-95 electric fan in a fox body

I have the sn95 elec fan it has 3 prongs LOW HIGH & Ground. if you look close at the plug area I think it has + + - on it. I ran a heavy gage wire to the 30 amp blower motor circuit and tapped into the fuse on the fuse box and it runs on high all the time. I gounded it near the fan to the body. Never gave me a problems.

If you want to run a temp switch than you would have to use relays. A friend tried to hook up a straight connection and burnt the temp switch. You can get them from summit. I have a diagram at home of how I got mines wired up. I'll try to post that later.

This is the way I have mines wired but I spliced it and added two relays.

Do a search on Summitracing.com for the painless temp switch. I have the one that comes on at 190 and off at 170.

Use this controller - it is FAR superior to any other available control mechanism for an electric fan. Not only is it accurate and reliable, it will minimize wear and tear on the motor and the alternator, as well as minimizing current draw. Only way to go.

http://www.dccontrol.com

I second the www.dccontrol.com controller.

"do i need some form relay to reduce the current through the switch."

Yes - definitely a relay; you'll spend $$$ trying to find a switch that will stand up to the current. Same is true trying to find a single relay to stand up to the current. I found that over time using the proper quality temp. switches and relays, I spent just as much (more by the time I got through finding the right combination of switches and t'stats) on all the gear as I would've if I'd just bought the controller to start with.

I got one of www.dccontrol.coms fan/controller for my car. I like the way the controller ramps the fan up and down as needed.

Agreed.

If you actually purchase the proper gauge wire, fuses, switch(es), and relay(s), you will likely have spent close to what the www.dccontrol.com unit costs and still have an inferior fan controller.

I use a C-H-E-A-P Hayden controller that triggers a Bosch 75a relay. It works well, but the controller was $20, the relay was another $20, and the associated wiring, loom, fusible link, etc was probably another $15-$20.

Granted, when I put my setup together, the DCControl unit was not yet available. If I had to do it now, I'd definitely pony up the extra $20 or so and have a much more elegant (and functional) setup.

BTW, you will need the same gauge wire on the negative side as the positive side. Just as much current runs through there as through the positive.

Well keeping the stock overflow looked a little tacky to me. I went out and got one from autozone.

Anyone use the DCControl unit on a Mark VIII fan? I was reading through the specs and it says that the continuous draw can be no more than 60amps. Doesnt the Mark VIII and the SN-95 fans draw close to 100amps at startup and more like 75 amps running?

Also the ones on the sight now are like 144.95 for the 60 (The one I think should be used). Isnt that a little steep for a controller?

Blue89gt said:

i'll be going to the auto parts store today thanks alot!!!

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Just to let you know, you'll have to remove the fuel charcol canister to mount the bottle there. No big deal.

Stang951 - surf around the Delta Control site some more; Brian has EXTENSIVE experience driving the MkVIII with his controller; in fact he sells the two as a package kit. It won't have any problems handling the fan. If you read up on it more, you'll see that the controller varies the current to control the fan --- no more start up spikes. It's one of the many benefits of the device - much easier on the alternator, fan motor and serpentine belt assembly. It 'ramps' up the current to start up the fan. The continuous draw from that fan even at full 'throttle' is less than 60A. But very few applications will ever see full draw - that's the beauty of the system. Instead of cycling it full on/full off, it controls the current/fan speed to move only enough air to cool the system. On most Stangs, with a MarkVIII fan, I doubt it would ever even come close to hitting full current.

I've got one of their 35A controllers working my dual 11" SPAL shrouded set up. They pulled 34A continuous with the old switch/relay control. It's a night and day difference with the DC unit - smoother, quieter, more consistent temps. In a word - ELEGANT. It rocks - nothing else even comes close.

If you want the controller by itself, it's $114.95 (by what I saw on the site); the $144.95 is for the install kit too. I bought the 35A kit for $109 -- WELL worth the money. You can not imagine how much more seamlessly this thing controls the fan. It's a night and day difference. Only you can determine what you're willing to pay for something; my only regret is that I didn't find this before I spent just as much on various switches, relays and wiring only to have a very inferior control system. By the way, most folks thought my dual temp switch, dual relay control set up was one of the best they'd seen. It was a neat system if I do say so myself - but it doesn't even come close to the dc unit when it comes to controlling engine temps with minimal parasitic losses, minimizing noise, and minimizing system wear and tear on the car/motor. Not that I'm a big fan (no pun) or anything....

You may find that the fan does your original/stock alternator in, and/or your battery if you're not lucky. If you have a voltage gauge keep an eye on it. It's usually marginal for the 65A alternator with an electric fan of any kind - especially if it's cycling on and off with a relay.

I just wanted to say thanks to Michael Yount for bringing to our attention the dc controler. It is an awesome product! I had my SN-95 fan hooked up to a dual relay setup. I modified a rear window defoger switch to turn it on or off. (I don't have rear defog on my car. Just got the switch from the junk yard.) It works well and the temp always runs cold exept for the spike in the charging system and constant high draw on the charging system. Also I don't like the idea of having to turn a switch on or off all of the time.

Thanks again

89sleeper said:

I just wanted to say thanks to Michael Yount for bringing to our attention the dc controler. It is an awesome product! I had my SN-95 fan hooked up to a dual relay setup. I modified a rear window defoger switch to turn it on or off. (I don't have rear defog on my car. Just got the switch from the junk yard.) It works well and the temp always runs cold exept for the spike in the charging system and constant high draw on the charging system. Also I don't like the idea of having to turn a switch on or off all of the time.

Thanks again

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Seems like a pita to remember to turn the switch on and off. That's why I have mine on a temp switch. But I do like the dc controller and I'll most likely get it when I get the extra cash.