spark plug wire troubles...

[lparsons]

Hey all, I'm new to the 5.0 (though not the mustang). I'm trying to change plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and I can't seem to get the plug wires off. Even with my thin hands and arms, I can't get into the space well enough to get the plug wires off the plugs.
Does anyone have any good tricks for getting the wires off? I have the engine compartment brace on my car, I've been thinking of removing that to get to the plugs, is there anything else that would be useful to get to them? Or better yet, has anyone found a good tool to get the wires out? I have more than enough sockets, extensions, and swivels to get to the plugs once I have the wires off, I just can't get them off!
On a more positive note, at least the cap and rotor were easy...


Did I mention I feel like a total idiot for asking this?

 

[2muchtime]

you cant reach the plug boot??if their just stuck on try twisting the boot first atleast 90degrees..

 

[94TURBO5 O]

Use a screwdriver and loosen the clamps on the rubber egr hoses and move them out of the way.

 

[HISSIN50]

or if you are ditching the old wires, just rip the wires off. put dielectric grease inside the new boots.
never seize the plugs too.
good luck.

 

[mo_dingo]

Autozone sells a tool to get plug boots off. Never used it, but it's cheap and I imagine it will work.

There isn't much you can remove from the driver's side that will help you, except the STB. Unless you want to remove the a/c lines! j/k

Like JR said, the EGR hoses need to be removed to maintain your sanity for the passenger side.

BTW, a swivel attached to a spark plug socket will probably not work. You need a swivel that is permanently attached to the spark plug socket. I tried it without the permanent swivel, and I couldn't get the plugs out. You may get it to work, but I couldn't. I think the back plugs were the PITA's.

A 1ft breaker bar attached to a spark plug socket might work. I didn't try that until the very end. One of my front plugs required a 2 ft breaker bar and all of my weight to break loose.

Don't feel bad about asking for help for the small stuff. That is what we are here for. Just remember to ask for help if you can't figure out why filling the oil through the dipstick tube is so damn hard.
Scott

 

[mo_dingo]

never seize the plugs too.

Do you mean don't use the anti-seize goop on the plug threads? Anytime I go to autozone, they always say "don't forget to put anti-seize on the threads!"

I never do, because I am lazy, and I don't want a plug backing out of the head. Mostly b/c I am lazy though.

Just curious why you say that.
Scott

 

[HISSIN50]

Do you mean don't use the anti-seize goop on the plug threads? Anytime I go to autozone, they always say "don't forget to put anti-seize on the threads!"

I never do, because I am lazy, and I don't want a plug backing out of the head. Mostly b/c I am lazy though.

Just curious why you say that.
Scott

Scott, you got it. never-seize, anti-seize, etc all the same. there is a copper version which i like - better conductivity (to ground). when torqued properly, a plug should not back out of the hole. not saying it wont happen, but id rather have to retorque a spark plug than have the threads gall.
use of this will keep you from needing a 2 foot breaker bar and 300 lb-ft to get a plug out.
P.S. been there and done that.
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BTW, a quality swivel (u-joint) socket should work. some of the cheapies dont (the weight of the spark plug socket pulls the joint and socket off the extension). i prefer decent swivels for air tools (not as much articulation but does not bind either). they are normally of better, tighter construction, since a loose connection can allow for a nice flying projectile when spinning something with air.

i like the twist method for breaking plug wire boots loose. i dont know about others, but i have broken those plug wire tools in half trying to get a boot off with brute force and one of those 'tools'.