SPEC Stage 1 Clutch - what to do about flywheel?

90GTFIVO

Active Member

Apr 28, 2011

120

15

29

Carroll, OH

Sep 7, 2011

#1

• Sep 7, 2011

• #1

I've decided to go with a SPEC Stage 1 clutch after reading many different threads on here. If you think I'm making a bad choice, I'm open to your suggestions.

My main concern now is the flywheel. For the power I'm planning on making (325-350 HP range) I've pretty much talked myself out of an aluminum flywheel. So, should I resurface my existing flywheel, buy a direct replacement or go with a SPEC steel, which is more expensive option?

I might take it to the track once or twice, just to see what I've got, but it will mostly be a street car (not a daily driver).

 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

Admin Dude

Jan 4, 1985

43,093

21,277

234

Box behind Walmart

Sep 7, 2011

#2

• Sep 7, 2011

• #2

More HP + time at the track - aluminum = Billet Steel FW

Nothing in this thread about torque or mods so I'll not make any clutch suggestions.

 

90GTFIVO

Active Member

Apr 28, 2011

120

15

29

Carroll, OH

Sep 7, 2011

#3

• Sep 7, 2011

• #3

The plan is for a TFS top end kit + other usual bolt-on adders (pulleys, 75mm TB and MAF sensor). Also plan to go with 24 lb injectors. I'd imagine torque could be somewhere around 350.

 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

14,679

424

154

Boca Raton, Florida

Sep 7, 2011

#4

• Sep 7, 2011

• #4

It's a decent clutch, I had a Stage III for my supercharged application and hated (heavy and chatter) driving the car. I used the stock flywheel with about 500HP which held the power just fine. Later when I went 347 I upgraded to McLoed Aluminum with that Stage III again (guess I didn't learn my lesson). Many may suggest RAM, FRPP, ZOOM, etc. My favorite clutch for my bolt N/A was FRPP King Kobra, light pedal and fun to drive. Think that one is rated up to 300 or 325 (they came out the King Kobra H.D. later).

 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

Founding Member

Jan 15, 2002

2,773

17

89

Dallas, GA

Sep 7, 2011

#5

• Sep 7, 2011

• #5

I don't know about the Spec I, but Spec clutches it is CRITICAL to break them in properly. That means you need to shift quick and gentle and keep your damn foot out of it. I have a spec III, not in the car right now as the auto is there, but when it was in my old car, it didn't chatter a bit. Of course, I broke it in right, all 500 miles. Didn't ride it, just quick gentle engagements. The Spec I uses standard friction material, so it should be easier.

 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving

15 Year Member

Apr 26, 2010

2,560

1,146

184

Georgia

Sep 9, 2011

#6

• Sep 9, 2011

• #6

There really is no need to get a new flywheel, but you do need to resurface it. I am running Spec Stage II and was concerned about some of the reviews, but so far it has been great. If I was going to buy a new flywheel right now, I think I would get the new Astro Performance Billet Steel Flywheel. I think it runs around $175 and it is lightened...17lbs I think. Lighter than a traditional flywheel, but not as light as aluminum. You could probably call them up and talk to them more about it.

Good luck with it!

 

90GTFIVO

Active Member

Apr 28, 2011

120

15

29

Carroll, OH

Sep 9, 2011

#7

• Sep 9, 2011

• #7

Thanks for all of your feedback.

I ordered the SPEC Stage 1 clutch kit and the SPEC billet steel flywheel yesterday. My project is officially underway!