Starter Stays engaged

sj9ers · May 28, 2009

So I have a roller 302 with a t5 in my project 69 coupe. I don't have my hydraulic clutch in yet so I figured I would just start the car in neutral so I jumped the neutral safety switch at the firewall by plugging a wire in the connector. The car starts, but the starter won't disengage and keeps going. I fried one starter already so I bought a new one, and switched out the starter solenoid for a new one and the same thing happened, the starter stays engaged even the the car is started and it got fried. Does anyone know what the problem might be?

D.Hearne · May 29, 2009

I wasn't aware that 69's had a neutral safety switch. Usually when something like this happens, it's due to low battery voltage making the soleoid switch stick. Thats the switch on the right side fender apron that's got the battery cable, starter cable and at least one small wire coming from the ignition switch connected to it.

2+2GT · May 29, 2009

sj9ers said:
The car starts, but the starter won't disengage and keeps going. I fried one starter already so I bought a new one, and switched out the starter solenoid for a new one and the same thing happened, the starter stays engaged even the the car is started and it got fried. Does anyone know what the problem might be?

If the starter engages when you turn the ignition on, it's the switch. If not, but it stays on even when you release the key, the solenoid is stuck. Common problem. When it sticks, turn off the ignition, and give it a whack.

Extreme cases require disconnecting a battery cable. Pull the coil wire to stop the engine.

sj9ers · May 29, 2009

but i already replaced the solenoid and the old one worked because I put it in my 67 and it worked fine and the starter still stays engaged even after i release the key.

zm830101 · May 29, 2009

i bypassed a neutral safety switch once. starter did the same thing. needless to say, i had bypassed the switch incorrectly. put the switch back in the system and viola...problem solved

2+2GT · May 30, 2009

sj9ers said:
but i already replaced the solenoid and the old one worked because I put it in my 67 and it worked fine and the starter still stays engaged even after i release the key.

The starter cannot stay "on" if the solenoid releases, period. Either the new solenoid is cheap defective crap, or the ignition switch or wiring is faulty, supplying power to the solenoid even when released. The starter simply cannot keep running on its own, the power comes from the solenoid. If the stater gets stuck "on", remove the small wire on the solenoid that's closest to the battery (or both, since the start circuit to the coil is the other one). If it stops, the problem is the ignition switch or wiring. If it does not, its the solenoid. There ARE no other possibilities.

About the neutral safety- all automatic transmission equipped 64-73 Mustangs had one, but no manual models did. However, the T5 transmission features a neutral safety, and an enterprising mechanic could have utilized it for added safety.

Tim65GT · May 30, 2009

If the stater gets stuck "on", remove the small wire on the solenoid that's closest to the battery (or both, since the start circuit to the coil is the other one). If it stops, the problem is the ignition switch or wiring.

I agree. Do this to determine the possibility the starter is hanging up mechanically, not electrically

If it does not, its the solenoid. There ARE no other possibilities.

Is there a chance?

sj9ers · May 30, 2009

So I finally figured out the problem today. It was the way I was jumping the neutral safety switch by putting a wire in between the posts at the neutral safety switch plug at the firewall. So today I bypassed all the switches by using a remote starter and connected it from the positive side of the solenoid to the S post and had the ignition switch in the on position and she fired right up and the starter disengaged and everything. So my next question is there a way I can hookup the neutral safety switch to the t5, jump it, or something so that it works properly or can I just bypass it altogether permanently?

zm830101 · May 30, 2009

that will be fifty bucks for the diagnosis i accept paypal

2+2GT · May 30, 2009

sj9ers said:
So my next question is there a way I can hookup the neutral safety switch to the t5, jump it, or something so that it works properly or can I just bypass it altogether permanently?

Well, since the Mustang didn't have a NS switch to begin with, just eliminate it, as it was on factory manual trans cars. Alternately, you could repair the wiring so the safety switch works.

sj9ers · May 30, 2009

well my car was originally a manual and the previous owner or someone else swapped it over to an automatic before i got it. How would I eliminate the switch?

2+2GT · May 31, 2009

sj9ers said:
well my car was originally a manual and the previous owner or someone else swapped it over to an automatic before i got it. How would I eliminate the switch?

The manual trans b/u switch wiring harness had a loop in the plug wiring where it connected to the harness at the dash. Sounds like they just hacked and used the auto n/s switch wiring for the T5. I'd have done it, too, but when I make such changes, the wires are soldered and shrinktube insulated, so they work and last.

Edward Miller · Oct 16, 2016

Ok I have a 1978 mustang ll ffactory v8 it has a five speed in it so I'm assuming a t5. It's been cranking just fine but I recently had carburetor issues so I had to crank extensively and finally on the last attempt to start it just thumped the fender solenoid so I went to the signal terminal and applied power sparks flew from battery side of terminal come to find out I had a bad eye lit so I unhooked everything and replaced the eye lit and now as soon as key is turned to run position it cranks like I'm trying to start it it shuts off when I turn key to the off position. I have also replaced and adjusted the ignition switch on top of the column. Any idea why it will go power like that?

tos · Oct 17, 2016

Sounds like you may have cooked your solenoid and its now stuck in the crank position or you've miswired something.
Give the solenoid a couple smacks to see if it frees up.

90sickfox · Oct 17, 2016

The only wire on the starter motor side is the starter motor. Only one wire on the starter motor cable side.

Starter Stays engaged

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