Starting issues, electrical gremlins

CManT1914 · Dec 31, 2005

I just put on my new starter, but unfortunately, the stang still won't start. The solenoid clicks over, so I know that there are no electrical interruptions to the starter. But that's all it does, just clicks. I just charged the battery when I was putting the starter on. I even hooked up a jumper box to the battery and tried, nothing, still clicks. So I know the baterry isn't shot. A friend put a multimeter on the starter itself and had me crank, he said that when I turn the key to crank, I get a big voltage drop. Any ideas? Maybe it's battery cables?

urban96 · Dec 31, 2005

youve ran all new wires to the starter right(if i remember correctly) i would check them over very good and make sure their not shorting out anywhere.

also can you turn the motor over by hand?

mo_dingo · Dec 31, 2005

CManT1914 said:
I just put on my new starter, but unfortunately, the stang still won't start. The solenoid clicks over, so I know that there are no electrical interruptions to the starter. But that's all it does, just clicks. I just charged the battery when I was putting the starter on. I even hooked up a jumper box to the battery and tried, nothing, still clicks. So I know the baterry isn't shot. A friend put a multimeter on the starter itself and had me crank, he said that when I turn the key to crank, I get a big voltage drop. Any ideas? Maybe it's battery cables?

If it just clicks, that usually implies a bad battery. But try this. Take a cable, and short out the ignition cable to the positive cable on the starter (with the key in the ignition). If that works, you aren't getting a signal from your ignition switch or the wiring inbetween.

But if it doesn't start, and the main pos cable is good, then you likely have a bad battery, or one with a low charge. You do know it takes a while to charge a battery. most are 200 a/h and if you are only charging at 5 amps or so, then it will take a very long time to charge it.
Scott
Scott

VibrantRedGT · Dec 31, 2005

Put the multimeter on the battery. You need 12.4v to fire a motor. The multimeter must read around 12.7+v on the battery. I'd start there since it takes a few seconds. Also there is a small black plug in type female connector that plugs into the starter male connector (ground). Make sure its plugged in. Sounds dumb I know.

HISSIN50 · Dec 31, 2005

I like the above-idea (whoops. Lots of peep's relied while I was picking my nose). How big a voltage drop do you have? if you get below about 10 volts, the starter will struggle to crank.

I do like turning it over by hand real quick (just a little bit) if you have not driven it in a bit.

If you can access the battery terminal on the starter solenoid, you can try jumping the two big lugs. If it starts, the issue is likely your new solenoid (they do come bad brand new).

If you test both ends of the starter cable and see more than .5 volts drop from one end to the other, the cable is lame. Like Urby said, I would go over that cable really good.

Random thoughts. Good luck Chris.

CManT1914 · Dec 31, 2005

I didn't read any of these (I'll read them later), I got it fixed. My main ground wire had worked it's way loose, and I tightened it down, and it cranks just fine now. Unfortunately, I pulled my ignition cylinder out to look at it, and I dropped it and it's broke now. So I can start the car without the key, lol. Oh well, at least it starts.

HISSIN50 · Dec 31, 2005

At least new lock cylinders are not expensive. Glad you got it Chris.

HISSIN50 · Dec 31, 2005

Oh did, you break the ears off of it or what? I have a fix for that.

CManT1914 · Dec 31, 2005

Okay guys, now that I'm home I have time to actually read your posts, lol.

Urban, the cables were all good, and the (I'm assuming you're talking about the starter motor) motor was good.

Scott Scott ( ), like I said, the cable was good, and I charged the battery at 50 amps, so it charged pretty quick. We also set it to jump (225 amps) and it still wouldn't start. So I know it wasn't the battery.

Joe, I was seeing 12.8v or so IIRC on the battery by itself. With the jump box hooked up, it shot up to around 14v!! Oh, and that plug was good, on my new starter, it's a ring terminal connection, I had to cut the plug itself off and put a terminal on it.

JT, HAH!!! 10 volts!! It dropped to like 1 volt when cranking! lol. I did jump the two terminals (boy that was a PITA with it installed, lol), still no go.

Wanna hear something funny guys? I had a friend check the voltage at the starter while cranking, and he had me hold it for a bit in the crank position, all of the sudden smoke starts pouring in from my center console! With the bad ground, the electricity was finding an alternative ground, my ebrake cable!! It was glowing orange!! It burnt the boot off it underneath the car, and charred the cable white. It's a lot easier to pull now, I'm sure it will break soon now, lol.

I also took my ignition cylinder out thinking that might be the culprit (as it's busted up). Well it wasn't, and in the process I dropped it on the floor and a few springs and pins came out. I couldn't get it back together so I said fawk it, I'll buy a new one. Nope JT, the whole thing's broke! Oh well. So right now my steering column is torn apart until I get a new cylinder, lol. Makes it easy to steal my car I'm sure.

HISSIN50 · Dec 31, 2005

Sorry to hear all that Chris. You are right about the current taking the next least path of resistance. When you get a chance, check your clutch cable and your throttle cable to make sure they did not get damaged too.

Glad you got it man. FWIW, a locksmith can rekey your new lock to your old key. Cost me under 20 bucks last time I had it done (I dont recall how much exactly though. It might have been closer to 10 bucks).

Starting issues, electrical gremlins

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